Cruise Control for GL1100i (Rostra)

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(Originally posted by sandiegobrass)

If anyone is interested, HERE is a pdf file (converted to image pages) that has some info that some may find useful to install an electronic Rostra on their wing... It works better than the one on my GL1500..

Thanks... :D SDB/Jim

(There is another installation in the gallery by Rick Kirby HERE at the first link also.)
 
(Originally posted by Wichita Scorpion)

dan filipi":g819y5ih said:
Jim, I've been wanting to do this for a long time.

Do you know where I can get the kit for less than $200?
I havent looked on ebay yet.

Hi Dan. With this post I do not intend to infringe on or walk on Jim's glory. He gets all the credit for my Cruise Control.

I used the information provided by Jim to install the Rostra Global Cruise Control Kit, RPC-250-1223, on my 1983 GL 1100A with a sidecar. Hard to believe that he gives the information away free. He is one of the best you will find to coach the installation and work with you. I bugged him for days with emails and questions and he always responded promptly and courteously.

I did a lot of online research on electronic and vacuum operated cruise control kits. My son thought I had lost my mind when I told him that I was installing an electronic Cruise Control on the GL 1100A.

You will need to order a switch of your choice. I used the Rostra Global Cruise Surface Mount Switch, RPC-250-3592. Jim used another type, not sure which one. Whatever switch you chose you will have to build a mount for it.

Download and print out Jim's information. He details everything very well.
The following website gives information on the kits and switches but the cost is a lot more. Kit cost $199.95
https://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+400615

After searching I found that this website had the best price but does not detail information on the kit. I ordered my kit and switch from this site. Kit cost $157.32 The switches are cheaper than on the above site also. These people are good to work with also. When my order came in the switch had been used then apparently re-boxed and ended up on the shelf as new. I called on the phone and they shipped me a new switch, priority mail, that day and told me to just ship the used one back when I could.
https://www.brandondist.com/rostra_prices.htm
 
I never followed up with my installation, a lot has happened since then.

I Did install the Audiovox unit which worked great for a few thousand miles then for some unknown reason it started acting up.
The problems seemed to come on slowly, it would engage fine then after a couple minutes I'd get a surge in the throttle then it would drop out completely. I didnt do anything to source the problem because all my riding has been places I couldnt use the cruise anyway.
We're planning a vacation so I decided to dig into the problem, which had gotten worse to the point that all it would do was pull the throttle once then release when hitting set then it would drop out.
I checked all the connections, redid some, played with some settings but it never came back so tired of playing with it I decided to install a Rostra unit.
I'm thinkin maybe the location I had it right behind the right lower fairing cover may have cooked something so I went with behind the right hard bag like Sandi.

I used the supplied heavy gage strap and drilled 2 holes in the fender to bolt on.
When the shocks bottom it just contacts the box.

CCMount.jpg


Having parts from 2 kits comes in handy when making the cable clamp, it's mounted to the same place as before on the fuel filter bolt.

CableClamp.jpg


Time to get creative making the throttle link. Sandi isnt kidding when he says th metal has to be thin to fit on the linkage.
A Sawzall blade fits perfectly.

SawzallBladeDryFit.jpg


The blade has a tab and the hole in it are placed just right so when the CC pulls on the linkage the blade tab contacts the linkage just perfectly. It was like the Sawzall blade was created for just this purpose!
Weld a bolt on, cut to size and grind smooth and it's ready to go.

ThrottleLink1.0_2.jpg


ThrottelLink1.0.jpg


This link bracket extension thingy provided about 2 1/2" of linkage travel, way more than what Rostra says as a minimum of 1 5/8". I think this is causing some problems tuning it because the travel is so great. The CC has a long way to pull I guess, anyway what happens is the CC is slow to react to speed changes so I'm loosing 2-3 MPH when starting a climb then gaining sometimes 5 MPH going over the top. Otherwise on level ground and slight hills it stays within 1-2 MPH.

I made this shorter link to try out tomorrow, too damn hot right now to test it.

throttleLink_1.1.jpg


Setting up the dip switches has been very odd, the final settings are very different than I expected.

Gain I set to "High", I have to retry "Low" again, I dont remember what effect it had.

9650 PPM was VERY erratic. It surged a lot then would apply damn near 1/2 throttle then level off then loose speed, like the CC was "hunting" for a happy medium but never found it.
After trying lower (worse) then higher (better each higher number) then stopping at 18000 it smooothed right out like a CC should be with gradual throttle movements to correct speed.

Engine/Setup Timer:

"8 Cylinder Low" resulted in what I consider a longer than acceptable time before the CC takes control of the throttle.
"4 cylinder High" makes the CC take the throttle almost instantly.

That's my experience so far. I'll post what I've done to further "tweak" the settings.
 
Ok, went for a ride with my son and it works great.

I used the shorter throttle link which seems perfect, nice smooth action holding the speed with no hunting or strange accelerations or decels.
It does seem to have a bit of a problem keeping accurate speed going down hill when first starting the down hill grade from a set speed. It will try to slow the speed unsuccessfully then there comes a point where I get an abrupt "closure" of the throttle. That happens just one time and not all the time then it recovers smoothly.
It's acceptable to me so I'm just going to chock it up to the nature of the beast.

I tried the "Low" gain setting. It would loose at least 5 mph before accelerating so back it went to "High"

My final settings are:

Gain= High
Pulses Mile= 18,000
Engine/Setup timer= 4 cylinder High
VSS source= On ( I used the VSS in the speedo)
Transmission= On
Control Switch= Off

The "tach wire is grounded.
The neutral (or clutch cutoff) wire is not connected.

All things considered the Rostra is easier to install because it doesnt need vacuum.
It most definitely is harder to set up than The Audiovox unit which was pretty much plug and play.

My testing has been only for about 100 miles so far so I may change my opinion later but If I we're to do another bike I'd choose the Rostra only because it doesnt need a vacuum source and storage container, BUT, if I wanted dead on control within 1 MPH I'd go with the Audiovox.
I cant say for certain why the Audiovox died, was it heat? was it vibration? or was it chance I got a defective unit? I may never know unless someone wants it to experiment on (I'll send it to you) but it worked great when it WAS working.
 
I would like some info on the installation you have done, How's it working, things to look out for... Including the original link to sadiagobrass's PDF which seems to be broken.
My 82 GL1100/S/I/A Hybrid is apart for the winter as i give it some TLC. and would like to install a real Cruise Control on it. tired of throttle locks.
 
The link in this first post is broken like it was in the other thread.
I'll fix it a bit later.

Edit: Link fixed. The pdf is not available for download at this time but each page can be viewed in the Gallery at the first link in post #1.
 
I have a copy of the pdf SanDiegoBrass posted if anyone wants a copy. The email posted is my current. I am about to install a Rostra on my 82i and have an Audiovox on my 76 that's been working for about 7 years.
 
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