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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#106  Unread postPosted: January 18th, 2015, 5:23 pm

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87 octane should be fine both ways. With C5 a step or two cooler plug is recommended.


I'm think 87 will work good, I hope it will.

I do know though that resistor plugs are mandatory with a C5 set-up.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#107  Unread postPosted: January 18th, 2015, 7:50 pm

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87 octane should be fine both ways. With C5 a step or two cooler plug is recommended.


I'm think 87 will work good, I hope it will.

I do know though that resistor plugs are mandatory with a C5 set-up.


If you use our sparkplug wires, and quality resistor caps, you could skip the plugs but we'd rather be on the safe side.

For those of you who didn't see it, here is the thread for our larger ignition that now fits 1000, 1100, 1200, and 1500 engines. You can read about it here
viewtopic.php?p=139276#p139276

This thread will remain true to the M series and since we are shipping out a pile of them this week, I hope to see a few installation photos popping up!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#108  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 6:27 am

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I'm not sure I am following this Paul. I am for sure going to use your plug wires and everything that comes in the kit. So I should or should not replace my plugs? If I should replace the plugs, can you please post the plug specs that you would recommend for a stock 76 set up, modified exhaust running the C5 M.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#109  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 6:46 am

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Don't need to replace them but you can go a step or two cooler plugs. With 3 sparks instead of one it will burn even a rich mix.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#110  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 6:53 am

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Don't need to replace them but you can go a step or two cooler plugs. With 3 sparks instead of one it will burn even a rich mix.


I'm still learning on the fly here. Saying I may need to go a step or two cooler on the plugs doesn't really help me. Do you have a plug brand and specification that you would recommend for use with the C5? I'm not even sure what is in the bike now. They are the plugs it came with. Should I just run those and inspect them after some use and change the plugs from there?

I have read that you are almost always going to have a "white" end on the plugs with the C5. I just don't really know what to expect. I just want someone to say "When you use the C5 you should also use ______ Plugs".

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If you go fast enough, your never in one place long enough to get hurt....
It's not the top end that I find exciting. It's as the exhilaration of acceleration!!!
Motorcycles, tattoos, and beer once you have one you'll only want another...


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#111  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 7:04 am

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No worries just use what you have. Along with the resistor caps. When you do feel the plugs need replaced just tell the salesman you want the next cooler plug from this one and hand him the one you have.
At least that is my plan of action on it.

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Maturity like wisdom seldom arrives without age. Far too often though age arrives without either.
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#112  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 7:07 am

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I bought a set of NGK DPR8EA-9 resistor plugs, to use in my 1100 when I finally get around to installing my C5.

Maybe Paul can get back and tell us if those are OK?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#113  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 7:17 am

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chilidawg wrote:
I bought a set of NGK DPR8EA-9 resistor plugs, to use in my 1100 when I finally get around to installing my C5.

Maybe Paul can get back and tell us if those are OK?
Don't need to replace them but you can go a step or two cooler plugs. With 3 sparks instead of one it will burn even a rich mix.


I'm still learning on the fly here. Saying I may need to go a step or two cooler on the plugs doesn't really help me. Do you have a plug brand and specification that you would recommend for use with the C5? I'm not even sure what is in the bike now. They are the plugs it came with. Should I just run those and inspect them after some use and change the plugs from there?

I have read that you are almost always going to have a "white" end on the plugs with the C5. I just don't really know what to expect. I just want someone to say "When you use the C5 you should also use ______ Plugs".


We do not quote exact sparkplug models because in some cases, different countries had different requirements and we never want to lead a customer down the wrong path.
I show US model GL1000 wings had D8EA sparkplugs (according to the 2012 NGK catalog in my hand).

The "R" in the NGK part number means Resistor. The 9 is one heat range cooler than 8 when using NGK brand spark plugs. If you want a plug that lasts a bit longer, spend a bit extra and purchase DR9EIX (The IX means high performance Iridium material).

In this case I recommend DR9EA or DR9EIX gapped to .028-.032"

If you experience detonation while cruising on flat ground, or use the motorcycle under high loads all the time (sidecar or trike conversion) I'd use a 10 heat range and see if it goes away. Most of the time one range cooler works just fine.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#114  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 7:24 am

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I bought a set of NGK DPR8EA-9 resistor plugs, to use in my 1100 when I finally get around to installing my C5.

Maybe Paul can get back and tell us if those are OK?


It appears all GL1100 engines used an 8 for heat range and all but the 1980 model already uses resistor plugs.

So again, I would run stock plugs or use a 9 heat range to get a bit cooler. Iridium if you want to get fancy, but not needed.

Thanks for asking questions about this. I am glad you guys care about the details!!
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#115  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 7:31 am

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Here is a great chart to understand "most" of the NGK numbers. Certainly these are the most common used in the motorcycle industry.

Fun facts that also help us understand more about our motorcycles!
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#116  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 8:27 am

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Great stuff here Paul, I am really learning a lot.

I have seen you mention this "detonation" a few times in this thread. Can you explain what that means in the running of the bike? I have never heard of this before so how do I know if it's doing it? What are the causes?

(duplicate post deleted-aapple)

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#117  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 9:01 am

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Detonation is that "knock" sound when your bike or car is struggling under a load. Usually heard when you ride down a road that gets progressively steeper, or when loading up the farm truck with a bit too much fire wood.

If you are riding at steady throttle and you hear it, that would indicate over heated sparkplugs or too much timing advance.
Don't take these discussions and let paranoia set in. We are just trying to explain what physical indicators could help determine if you are using the correct heat range.

Stick with the suggestions listed above and you will be fine!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#118  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 9:49 am

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Paul

When are you going to continue our class on this stuff??

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#119  Unread postPosted: January 19th, 2015, 10:04 am

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Paul

When are you going to continue our class on this stuff??


The class was on engine load in Dan's VOES thread, correct?
I think between Dan and I we've both been too busy getting caught up on work. I have been tinkering with a Buell lately that uses a TPS (throttle position sensor) to adjust timing maps but its too cold here for test riding right now. I'm out of town for two days this week but will try gathering more material when I return.

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