Loose Carb Pucks

Classic Goldwings

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Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
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Location
Lenexa, KS
My Bike Models
2003 Honda Valkyrie
I'm running in my idle circuit and noticed that during my recent carburetor rebuild that my aluminum pucks loosely fit in the hole of the carburetor. I've read that they should lightly press into the hole. Can this lead to a lean idle? I can't see how but I'm trying to turn over every stone as I go.

My plugs ceramic are a bright white and the color-change line on the negative electrode is all the way around the bend to the body of the plug. I want to fatten up the mixture until I get some color or I'm not comfortable.

I should mention that I have a Dyna ignition and am running NGK D8EA's at the moment.

Any advice or insight will most certainly be welcome.
 
Those pucks lead to the jet passage so if they're loose, I can see it causing a lean condition but would they be lean the same across all cylinders.
Seems like I've read of someone selling new pucks, not sure of this though.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=164632#p164632:2dmpr1qc said:
dan filipi » Sat Dec 19, 2015 9:10 pm[/url]":2dmpr1qc]
Those pucks lead to the jet passage so if they're loose, I can see it causing a lean condition but would they be lean the same across all cylinders.
Seems like I've read of someone selling new pucks, not sure of this though.

Randakk's kit includes them, I think. The float bowl gasket should provide the seal, loose or tight, I would think.
 
I too would think that the bowl gasket seals the area sufficiently. I've hunted with propane and with brake cleaner. The propane never did give me any indication unless it got near the intake. The brake cleaner, with its straw didn't cause the rpm's to change but it did cause some nasty white smoke. I'll start again tomorrow by fully warming up the engine and move well out of the garage and try again with the brake cleaner. I'll work from the bottom up with significant pauses between sprays. Hopefully I can isolate the leak.

I've heard about the butterfly shaft leaking due to excessive soaking of the carbs in carb cleaner. The felts apparently dissolve. I have to wonder . . .
 
Near the intakes sounds like your problem..no change to rpm anyplace especially near the intakes.
 
Thanks for the tips. I did caliper the intake o-rings and they're 45mm x 2.6mm, and in great condition. I used punk stick smoke yesterday and didn't see anything. I'll loosen the carbs up and tighten at the heads and then the carbs after the bike is at temp. I also have some 3.1mm section o-rings that I can try if everything else fails.
 
I installed new o-rings that are 45 x 3.1mm and they're a tight fit and certainly eliminate any concern of manifold leaks. But, mysteriously, the bike still suffers from three cylinders running lean at idle. I've been through the carbs twice, inspecting every orifice and jet for cleanliness, size, renewing all rubber, set all the floats, rebuilt the air-cut valve, and synched to perfection and nothing has changed much. I started out with cylinders #1, 2 and 4 running very lean and cylinder #3 running perfectly. What the heck is different about #3? When I drain the bowls I get the same amount of gas, to the gram, from each carb.

I have a C5 ignition on order but I'm not expecting a miracle from a new ignition. I sure would love to get this carburetor issue behind me. :head bang:
 
ok ...#3 carb is home carb and is made different than the others ,,,the other carbs adjust with vac to match 3 carb ...the pathways on stock carbs have some turns and can be the problem even with great cleaning going on ...sometimes its a handful to get them right to adjust in good .... :popcorn:
 
I can see light through every jet, I can squirt cleaner through every orifice. I get that #3 is the reference carb but I can't see how that makes it any different. I'm likely going to take them apart a third time, completely apart, and run them through a heated ultrasonic bath of Krud Kutter parts washer. I've been putting off buying Randakk's CD because I've never met a carburetor that is seemingly this difficult to get right. Valkyrie carbs are a piece of cake!

I should also add that I've experimented with adjusting the mixture screws from 2.5 to 5.5 turns out to no avail.
 
These are the stock 1000 carbs? If so adjust the mixture screws. Warm the bike and set idle 950-1000 rpm. Adjust one mix screw to highest rpm you can get. Don't rely on the tach listen close. When you have it at highest rpm. Reset idle back to where it was and do the same to the next carb. Once you have done this to all four do it again to all four. Each carb affects the rest. When all have been done twice then see how it runs. Synchronizing the carbs is done with the linkage.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=164896#p164896:3dmtfjnf said:
BonS » Thu Dec 24, 2015 11:04 pm[/url]":3dmtfjnf]
I should also add that I've experimented with adjusting the mixture screws from 2.5 to 5.5 turns out to no avail.

If you are getting no change in idle by winding the screws out that far, you have problems in the idle circuits on all those carbs. Or you have massive air leaks. Or the floats are not set right and the fuel level is too low.
The felt seals on the throttle spindle will have disintegrated anyway, regardless of whether you soaked them or not. They always do. But unless you have a great deal of slop in the spindle holes, this is not where your problem lies.
 
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