How do you ID "early" GL1000 cams?

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desertrefugee

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As folks here already know, I've acquired a dual Weber 40 setup and will be going down that path this fall as the weather becomes more conducive to extended garage sessions here in the Phoenix Metro area.

With my '78, I'd like to get a little more "breathing" duration with the early cams to exploit the available flow from the Webers. I have scanned the archives a bit, but didn't see anything about distinguishing marks on cams. Or heads for that matter. The most resolution I've seen is engine case castings.

Sorry if this is common knowledge, but if I run across "loose" cams, how can I be assured they're early ones?
 
Took a gander at Old Fogey's website and saw a blurb that reminded me that these aren't small block Chevy's and need proper care and feeding.

I hope he won't mind if I quote that passage here. It's important:
Very important. If you need to change or renew cams, you must also used the rockers that came with that cam and make sure that each rocker goes with the cam lobe it came from!

There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!

Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194179#p194179:xlgv68pm said:
joedrum » 8 minutes ago[/url]":xlgv68pm]
Hog wash ...to me ...parts mixing is the only way to maybe get things better and tighter ...to,each there own...
Agreed.
 
Oh desert the cams are identified by having no numbers on them ...those are the early 371 cams ..all,others are number 434 I think is 78-79 cams ..464 cams are 1100 cams ...
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194175#p194175:3mgaop2n said:
desertrefugee » Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:52 pm[/url]":3mgaop2n]
Took a gander at Old Fogey's website and saw a blurb that reminded me that these aren't small block Chevy's and need proper care and feeding.

I hope he won't mind if I quote that passage here. It's important:
Very important. If you need to change or renew cams, you must also used the rockers that came with that cam and make sure that each rocker goes with the cam lobe it came from!

There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!

Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.

I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but parts are made to be changeable.
 
Sooo...does that mean that the fellow who "knows where there is a pair" would be willing to part with them? I'm willing to go for it. Even if the "new" cams get all scored up from hardened followers already run in, I'd have the original cams. And they're not exactly rare - yet.
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=194188#p194188:12iwx3nw said:
brianinpa » Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:32 pm[/url]":12iwx3nw]
Yea as I no longer have any plans to put 1100 heads with 1000 cams on a 1200 motor. I have no idea how many miles were on the motor. How about $30 plus postage?

I'd be happy to take them for that. Postage won't be too bad. Appreciate it - and the forum for allowing this activity outside the "standard" area.

But, it fits the topic title and is a happy ending. Well, start of a happy ending anyway.

Brian, please switch to PM and we'll settle up.

(Sorry Joe, but I'm really going to need these things).
 
There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!
[/quote]

Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.[/quote]

I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but parts are made to be changeable.[/quote]

I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but NEW parts are made to be changeable.
Sorry guys, but what I wrote is in no way hog-wash. If you don't pay attention to that you can wipe out a cam in no time.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194182#p194182:143phcur said:
joedrum » Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:22 pm[/url]":143phcur]
Oh desert the cams are identified by having no numbers on them ...those are the early 371 cams ..all,others are number 434 I think is 78-79 cams ..464 cams are 1100 cams ...
78-79 cams are numbered 431, 1100 cams are 463. You should also use a 371 advancer and remark the crank timing marks when using the early cams.
 
Oh great. And I just got Brian's cams. Well, I think maybe I'll dress the followers a bit and/or look for obvious unusual wear patterns that might clash with cam lobes. Heck, when motors are new, there's a bit of an "acquaintance" break-in period. Guess I'll sort of go through that again...
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=194811#p194811:2hbvpqkw said:
desertrefugee » Thu Aug 17, 2017 5:02 am[/url]":2hbvpqkw]
Oh great. And I just got Brian's cams. Well, I think maybe I'll dress the followers a bit and/or look for obvious unusual wear patterns that might clash with cam lobes. Heck, when motors are new, there's a bit of an "acquaintance" break-in period. Guess I'll sort of go through that again...

If you read the whole article, this is exactly my advice. Sometimes it is simply not possible to get the matching parts, so you have to do just what you said.
In any information I give out I always try to state the Best Practice method, as I believe it would be wrong to give any different or misleading info to others that perhaps don't have the engineering knowledge. Those of us that do can often take shortcuts since we know what we are looking at.
 
Yes I always do a hand milling job with rockers and als lobes to smooth out any ridges without being aggressive at all....like to mill leaving marks that will hold oil some ..and do the finish milling with the parts running in oil ...hooch came out super quiet ...using this method ....lite touch and smart hands are everything...
 
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