GL1000 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

desertrefugee

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
2,034
Reaction score
19
Location
Chandler, Arizona
I guess I should have run one simple thread topic for one simple task. But, my trials and tribulations over this have been more interesting than I expected. To be honest, it IS (or SHOULD BE) a pretty simple conversion. It has been detailed eloquently elsewhere a number of times and I've leaned heavily on those previous efforts.

A couple of my minor snags are noted here: (namely the hydraulic lines and fittings)

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=12582

But today's snag really has me irritated. We've all heard the horror stories about Saber Cycle and their customer service - and sometimes "iffy" parts supplies. Well, I took a leap and ordered one of their clutch cover gaskets. I figured, how bad could it be? Well, it doesn't match the bolt pattern, that's how bad. It specifically said "1984" in the title. They sell the '85-'87 separately, so I figured they knew what they were talking about. They do not.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gasket-clu...ash=item3af1ea31b5:g:kREAAOSw9uFW9ziz&vxp=mtr

Stay tuned.

But, I have 304 stainless rod coming, banjo bolt in hand for the slave (that one drove me nuts), master cylinder and braided stainless top side hose, and of course the 1984 cover and slave cylinder are all waiting patiently for the complete inventory of necessary bits.

So, now I have no gasket. Yes I am irritated. Oh-so-close-but-still-no-can-do.

Sheesh.
 
Yes the difference is 82-83 clutch cover operates like the 84 cover ...they also have same bolt line up as earlier wings ...the 82-83 covers that are cable will operate the 1200 clutch ...I've done this myself so I know it's a fact ....saber did send wrong gasket it seems..
 
I have made several clutch cover gaskets using a sheet gasket material I bought at the local auto parts store and hole punches I bought at Harbor Frieght. The nice thing about the clutch cover, there isn't much pressure built up, so the gasket doesn't need to be very precise.
 
I feel like an idiot. I got this reply back from Saber this morning:

You are mistaken. Our 82-440 matches the 11393-MG9-306 in exact size and cut and we can prove it. We have two 11393-MG9-306 here in our warehouse for quality control. Please see our attached photos of the OEM and our 82-440 laid on top and a shot to show the gaskets are stacked.

So, if our 82-440 doesn't match what you need then the OEM 11393-MG9-306 won't work for you either. Match sure you have first matched up the larger tabs. They are not all the same size.

So, I went back out and rotated, flipped, rotated some more and flipped again and HOLY SMOKES found that it actually does line up!

In my defense, what a PIA to get set. Gasket can only face one direction and getting the rotation then gets a lot easier. Saber sent a gasket that fits. I take back what I said.

Guess I can get on with the job now - except I'm headed over to the mountains of Western New Mexico on Thursday. A nice, Fall ride into the wilds. Not a bad reason for procrastination...
 
The gasket is certainly a one position fit. Sabre may be right, but they could have chosen better words for their explanation. Maybe its just my biased opinion on the subject, but I read their response with a lot of attitude.
 
The answer is . . . about a half a quart.

What's the question?

The question is: "How much oil leaks out when you remove the clutch cover?"

:roll:

I knew there'd be some based on the lower level of the opening, but I underestimated a bit. No matter. I've started the conversion. I won't finish until next week since I'm doing a road trip to New Mexico to hit a few ghost towns in the mountains. I love fall road trips.

I'm pretty anxious to get this conversion finished, so I did the preliminary prep work. I may get a little more done tonight, but I'm in no real hurry.

(And yes, I need a final drive seal. I didn't realize it was that bad).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5369.JPG
    IMG_5369.JPG
    137.1 KB · Views: 148
I'm guessing that folks have forgotten about this "task" I undertook. Well, a ride to New Mexico got in the way and it took me a while to get all the parts and pieces in order (long story), but I finally had everything laid out - and was about to button things up and get 'er done...

...until I realized how tight things are back there trying to get the slave cylinder, actuator rod and cover in place with the frame cross member "thisclosetotheslave". I fussed with the danged thing for a long time one evening and gave up in disgust. WTF? So, I came back in and sheepishly PM'd a few gurus who've been down this path.

Here's what Old Fogey had to say when I asked him if I was stoopid or what:

No, you are not stupid. I fitted it all up first time with the engine out. Then, just like you, I found, the only way to get the slave on or off is to drop the engine at the rear.
I have just had to pull the engine out of mine again and needed it off so that I didn't lose clutch fluid, so trust me, there is no other way. Sorry.

Well heck. I sure missed any reference to dropping the engine for this job. So, just as I'd resigned myself to doing just that, I took one last stab at it. I flattened the overflow hose stay, tacked the gasket in place and tweaked the acuator rod at an angle (hopefully the seal will seal now) and invented even more new four-letter words and it was in. Holy crap what a pain. Not interested in doing it again anytime soon - and the slave banjo bolt felt like it wanted to strip when I snugged it down, so I might "have" to!

I'm done for the evening, but the vacuum bleeder goes on in the morning and, hopefully, I'll be done.

Did I say this was a bit more of a pain than I anticipated? Dang.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5451.JPG
    IMG_5451.JPG
    114.4 KB · Views: 107
Well I’ve quite a bit of experience here ...on everything except the hydro actuator on a 1000 clutch ....love had cable and hydro actulated 1200 clutches ...and actually the cable operated 1200 clutch was ...to me better than the hadron operated one on hooch ...in general the 1200 clutch is much better and works easier than 1000 or 1100 clutch ...be interesting what Darrel thinks ...I just like how the cable clutch was way better in feel ...
 
lol. To tell you the truth, for me it's not about the "feel", but the reliability. I've never had a problem with a hydraulic clutch, but I've popped a few cables over the years. If I happen to get what I consider to be better action, that'll be a bonus. I'll let you know soon!

And to be COMPLETELY honest, I also think it'll be "cool" having a hydro clutch on an early wing. Exactly 1 person in 196,453 will give a rat's butt, but that's my story!
 
Not really happy right now. Anybody want to buy a '78 with a partial hydraulic clutch conversion completed?

1) Master cylinder leaking like a sieve. I bought a matching brake cylinder and it's fine. Rotten luck. At least it came with a kit...

2) Line is sucking air somewhere. (Not at the master). I think it might be the slave. Yeah. The one that makes you swear to get in and out.

Like I said. Not happy. I'm doing something else for a while. This little project has been jinxed from the start. Might be a sign!
 
Top