Has anyone rebuilt a GL1000 u-joint?

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pidjones

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While cleaning up the Hunley's drive and swingarm, I have discovered (among things like one of the pivot thrust bushes missing - I made a new one out of brass) that the u-joint has play in it. A lot more than I like. Has anyone ever rebuilt one? BTW, it was anything but dry. I'd eBay one, but I've already put too much in replacement parts.

I spent an hour searching the forum for this, but didn't find it addressed. Sorry if I missed it.
 
To rebuild the. Unrebuildable joint is a nightmare the joint is peen in place and has to be cut to get the caps off ...I never found any parts for the joint ...I was modding a 1000 end joint on a 1100 short shaft to get a 1100 swingarm and final drive to fit a 1000 frame bike ...I mess up two caps trying to press them back in but finally got it done ....I’ll never ever do that again lol ..buy a shaft is best option in my opinion
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=201247#p201247:1zh4zvtd said:
joedrum » Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:52 pm[/url]":1zh4zvtd]
To rebuild the. Unrebuildable joint is a nightmare the joint is peen in place and has to be cut to get the caps off ...I never found any parts for the joint ...I was modding a 1000 end joint on a 1100 short shaft to get a 1100 swingarm and final drive to fit a 1000 frame bike ...I mess up two caps trying to press them back in but finally got it done ....I’ll never ever do that again lol ..buy a shaft is best option in my opinion
Thanks, Joe. Guess I'll just live with what I have for now (at least it seems to still have all of its needles). I'll keep an eye out for a good deal on eBay or a breaker South of Knoxville. I do have a small mill, but sourcing a new cross might be even harder.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=201265#p201265:1nhte6sc said:
Rednaxs60 » Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:37 am[/url]":1nhte6sc]
Have this info regarding rebuild of a u-joint. Have a second one as well but can't find right now. Have a read, good pictures.


GL1200 universal joint repair.pdf
Thanks. This is pretty close to what I was thinking. Nice fixture he used to hold the yoke for cutting the groove in a lathe. I was thinking more of using my mini-mill. Would have to grind a tool either way but that's no hill for a climber. My other concern would be finding the correct cross. Wonder if it is the same as the one on the 1200?
 
Closer inspection shows that the cup is actually loose in the yoke, which appears to be the major reason for the looseness. So, if the yoke is loose the is no chance for rebuild. Didn't get to call the breaker today, maybe tomorrow. Just thinking - what if bearing seating compound were wicked into the gap?
 
May not be worth it, but I had a driveline shop repair one once on an old truck with welds then machine it to size. Back then there were lots of places around for things like this and cost was much lower though. Might be an option if you come up empty on a used one.
 
I bit the bullet today and ordered one from an eBay vendor. I had called our nearby breaker yard, and although he had one, by the price he quoted he was pretty attached to it. I may still try to use some bearing seating compound on this one as a spare. Or maybe just super glue?
 
If your shafgt is the early 75-77 one, there was not enough 'meat' around the bearings and the metal stretches. You are lucky you found it just loose at this point, as shortly it woulkd have given way due to fatigue.
78 -79 shafts have more substance to them in that area and don't fail anything like as often.
If you really feel like rebuilding one, the U/J you need is GU1944, staked style not circlipped. It can be done but it's not easy.
 
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