Leaky Carbs

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wedoo2

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Terre Haute, IN
I have just finished replacing the stator on the Gold Witch and after getting things ready to fire up again number 1 carb started leaking gas pretty bad. It turned out to be a bad float bowl gasket. I got those in today and I'm ready to put the carb bank back in but I have had problems with gas leaking into the cylinders.

Normally that would be a problem with float adjustment. I have looked at the height again and all are at 15.5mm as the manual says. I'm not sure where else to go next to prevent dumping gas into the cylinders. My petcock was leaking some so I went ahead and ordered one from the local dealer and will get that in tomorrow. When I say leaking, I mean from the side of the petcock and as far as I know the shut off worked.

Any ideas before I put them back in?
 
If you have them out and you know there are leaks, now is the best time to just clean and rebuild them with new seals. It doesn't take long and it is not as complicated a process as it might look. I cleaned two sets of carbs now and the results are well worth the effort!
 
I have removed all of the jets and cleaned them. They were clean though. I took the floats off and checked the filters there and they were kinda yucky. Cleaned that up. It was suggested to me that the needle valves might need replacing but they are fairly new (less than 3000 miles) and were quite springy. I sprayed all of the passages and blew them out. Everything is clean. Checked the float levels again and made sure they would actually float.

I had a new accelerator pump so I changed that as well.
 
Were the float valves Honda? Seems I remember reading somewhere that the aftermarket aren't very good for sealing. They ended up cleaning the seats and valves with (X, don't remember, jewelers rouge or ?) and they didn't need new after all.

Might want to bench test the floats before install so as to determine which, if any, leak.
 
I have heard that too Mike and when I changed them I bought Honda parts, along with the accelerator pump.

Yesterday I took the bank to a friend of mine, Motorcycle Bob, a long time Honda mechanic and we both went through the carbs. Cleaned the jets, floats, seats (still dirty) check the float heights. All is well, and installed. Problem is the bike will not start.

I've got the suck-good air filter and clean carbs. I've got bang-all the plugs are firing and the starter is turning over okay. I've tried starting fluid and gas straight into the carbs. I've got blow. Good exhaust. The kill switch is on RUN.

I am going to see if for some reason the fuel pump is giving me a problem, but you would think I would have gotten something by squirting gas into the carbs. I know that it may take a few turns to fill the float bowls but I've turned it over a lot.

What am I missing?
 
Is the ground wire attached at the coils? I had removed the coils from my 1100 for cleaning other items and forgot to re-attach the green wire. No start, but plenty of starter turn over!
 
I'm posting on the Saunders as well and it was suggested that the pulse generator may not be aligned correctly, or a pin that was not installed. I assume that I would still get spark if that was the case, and if it is the problem I would have to drop the motor again.
 
if the pin fell out and was not noticed ...the spark would most likely stll be sparking ...and bike would be backfiring and stuff from being out of time ...if there no spark at all might be something else ...but if you had the ignition apart when replacing stator ..id check that pin to see if it is missing ..really sloppy fit and dam near guarunteed to fall out in my epweience with the pin
 
The float valves are what turns the gas off to the carb when that 15.5 is reached, provided the pin is still in place on the float. That is the problem if it is still dumping fuels into the cylinders. Petcock or no petcock this is a problem that needs to be addressed. Just one time going out for a nice meal and forgetting to turn off the fuel will = a bad night for your engine.
 
Well folks please take a look and see if you can spot any problems. I know now that there is a vacuum test I can do but I loaned out my mityvac to my son and not sure what else I can use. May have to buy something. The motor is at T1

IMG_0739.jpg
 
It does not hold. I can see the advance move, and I hope that is the correct term. The black electronic ignition parts. Taste good though.
 
Lol.

Diaphragm is no good. They aren't available from Honda anymore. About the only option I've seen around is to adapt one from an old Chevy or similar.
It will run fine without it. Might loose a bit of performance or fuel economy.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=204695#p204695:22c6rf27 said:
wedoo2 » Today, 4:23 pm[/url]":22c6rf27]
It does not hold. I can see the advance move, and I hope that is the correct term. The black electronic ignition parts. Taste good though.

Just a guess, but this seems it would be perfect application for a C5 kit with a specialize curve upload. In fact I would think things could be better.
 
Yes, it probably would but I can't afford it. Not for this bike. Maybe help me with identifying parts. Here is a pic.

IMG_0739a.jpg
 
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