1986 GL1200 Water Pump Rebuild by backlander

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backlander

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Location
Camden , AR
Parts suppliers used:
water pump seal kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/GL1200-GL1200A-G ... 591wt_1245

water pump rebuild kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/280871719864?ssP ... 626wt_1186


Water pump rebuild kit-taunusrainer-ebay seller - $37.50 includes shipping (search Honda water pump rebuild kit) He list several and you must pick the proper kit for your application.
Water pump gasket set-georgefix-ebay seller $23.99 includes shipping (search Honda water pump gasket kit) His kit includes the oil pump seal also.
Both sellers are excellent in all regards.

1. Remove the water pump from the transmission cover.

2. Remove the rear snap ring on the oil pump end of pump shaft. Supporting the front of the pump housing, begin driving the shaft thru the rear bearing. I used a rubber hammer to keep from damaging the end of the shaft. When you reach the rear bearing, use a blunted nose chisel in slot and drive the shaft thru the front bearing and mechanical seal. You will find a snap ring on the front part of the shaft that will either be broker or the ears will be bent flat against pump shaft. Remove it and discard.
IMG01218-20120802-1400.jpg

3. That will leave you a pump shaft with the impeller attached. Support the impeller fins with the vise and with a round blunt chisel, drive the pump shaft out of the impleller. Flip the impeller over and pop out the ceramic washer and its rubber seal.
IMG01347-20120816-1511.jpg

4. Supporting the back of the pump housing on the vise and using the blunt round chisel, tap the rear bearing out of the housing. Flip the pump housing over and drive out the front bearing which in turn will remove the mechanical seal and tin cup at the same time.

5. Throw the old bearings, o-rings, mechanical seal, ceramic washer and seal in the trash and clean the pump shaft, impeller and pump housing. There will probably be some pitting on the shaft and in the front of the pump housing where the front bearing and weep hole are. This shouldn't hurt anything as long as the areas where the bearings ride on the shaft are smooth, the oil pump slotted end is not damaged and the impeller end of shaft is smooth. You can lightly sand the shaft to clean up these pitted areas.

6. These are the new parts that come with the rebuild kit. Do not remove the spring loaded end of the mechanical seal from the tin cup as it is assembled as should be. There are two tangs on that tin cup that the mechanical seal slides forward on to maintain pressure against the ceramic washer as the seal wears with use. It is also self aligning an may leak a small amount thru the weep hole until it seats.
IMG01354-20120816-1533.jpg

7. Install a new snap ring on the impeller end of the pump shaft. I purchased new ones at the local hardware store for 22 cents each. You will need two.
IMG01362-20120816-1614.jpg

8. After lightly lubing the OD of one of the bearings with petroleum jelly, install it in the impeller end of the pump housing, make sure it is fully seated.
IMG01367-20120816-1627.jpg
It will look like this, exposing the weep hole in the housing.
IMG01368-20120816-1627.jpg
While you were cleaning the housing, this weep hole should have been cleaned out. I used a drill bit the same size of hole. If you forgot to, do it now before it's to late.

9. Using the same procedure as above and install the rear bearing. It will be recessed slightly below the surface when it's seated, like this.
IMG01365-20120816-1620.jpg

10. Using a light coating of petroleum jelly on the pump shaft, insert the slotted end thru the front bearing and thru the rear bearing until the front snap ring rests against the front of the front bearing. Don't overdrive it. Flip the housing over and you may find that the rear bearing has tried to move outward. Support the impeller end of shaft on vise and reseat the rear bearing as before. Install the rear snap ring.
IMG01369-20120816-1636.jpg

11. I used a light coating of Pematex blue thread locker on the OD of the tin cup of the mechanical seal. Using a socket on the rim of the tin cup, drive the tin cup into face of the pump housing until it seats.
IMG01370-20120816-1649.jpg

12. The ceramic washer is semi-enclosed in rubber seal. Put a light coat of petroleum jelly on the OD of this rubber seal and install it using thumb pressure into the back of the impeller. If you happen to have been inquisitive and removed the ceramic washer, reinstall it in the rubber seal with the "shiney" side looking back at you.
IMG01371-20120816-1650.jpg

13. I put a light coating of the Permatex blue thread locker on the OD of the impeller end of the pump shaft, stood the pump up on the oil pump end of pump shaft and drove the impeller back onto the shaft until it was seated.

14. Now you have rebuilt your own water pump.

I haven't installed or tested mine as yet because of other work on the bike, but I see no reason for it not to work. Make sure the trans cover weep hole is cleaned out using the same drill bit as before. When you get ready to install the pump into your transmission cover, coat the new o-rings with petroleum jelly real good and also the pump housing and it should go back together easily without rolling or cutting the o-rings, however you still have to be really careful doing this part. Make sure the weep hole in the pump and the trans cover match up. Install the three bolts with the new sealing washers that came with the gasket kit and torque to specs. Happy Trails.

backlander
 
Excellent how to thread! I've done several searches on ebay for your guys though and come up empty handed.
 
backlander":3jcej3yr said:
12. The ceramic washer is semi-enclosed in rubber seal. Put a light coat of petroleum jelly on the OD of this rubber seal and install it using thumb pressure into the back of the impeller. If you happen to have been inquisitive and removed the ceramic washer, reinstall it in the rubber seal with the "shiney" side looking back at you.

Did the ceramic seal come with a small bag/tube of lubricant? One thing I have learned about ceramic seals is that you do NOT want to touch the ceramic surface with greasy fingers. Also, they usually have a small amount of a special lubricant to schmere on them, to keep the ceramic surface from glazing on first rotation. Even with the special lubricant, they will normally leak a bit when first run.

This is a great tutorial, Mike!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :thanks:

Oh yeah...question....how tight does the impeller fit onto the shaft? I wondered about pressing it off, if it would still stay on the shaft once it was pressed back on. I see you used some lock-tite on yours...that's prolly a good idea. :thanks:
 
Joel, there was not any type lube included with kit, The impeller shaft actually was very easy to drive out, it fits snug when put back on, the locktight was just a bit of "insurance" but I don't think it will come off the shaft without it. I did spray it with Liquid wrench from the back side and let it sit for about ten minutes before I punched it out. I just made sure I supported the impeller fins in the vise like this.
IMG01346-20120816-1508.jpg
 
:good: :thanks:

I wonder.....reckon you could drill the end of the shaft, tap it, and run a bolt down in there to hold it on? Just as extra insurance? I'm sure the shaft is super hard, but who knows? I bet the lock-tite will be all that is needed.
Imma just tinkin out loud here. I plan on rebuilding mine eventually, but considering the luck I have had recently, my impeller would prolly come flying off, and poke holes in the front cover, and prolly the front of the engine case too..... :smilie_happy: :builder:

Taking the impeller off the shaft is the only way you could get that front snap-ring back on, tho, so I guess that's how it s'posed to be done. :wave:
 
I don't think it would ever come off the shaft, don't know if it could be tapped or not. I had thought that if it was loose that it could be spot welded a dab in that center hole but that would pretty well eliminate a second rebuild on it. It is the only way to get that snap ring on though, and it destroys the mechanical seal when you disassemble it, (possible intentional design by engineers to make you at least buy one of their 30.00 mechanical seals from Honda). :nea: They wouldn't do that. Would they? :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
UPDATE: The water pump rebuild kit referenced in this tutorial is no longer available from this supplier. After negotiating a possible quanity buy with him, his supplier is no longer making that particular mechanical seal. He did assure me that he would email me when he locates another supplier of the mechanical seal. He is not selling anything on ebay at this present time. I will advise when I hear something, sorry. Honda still sells the mechanical seal seperately for around thirty dollars.
 
Was wondering how is your rebuilt pump doing? :headscratch: My new replaced years ago pump has a slight leak, :roll: will try my hand at a rebuild job if good parts are available. :yes:
 
Thank's, that's just the answer i was hoping for. :thank_you: Used my new one, that was in the going to need one one of these days, not going to get any cheaper, nice to have one on hand one, on my last bike, as always it was trashed. :roll: Ordered a new one from the dealer, & will rebuild the one that started to leak, for my spare. :yes: Just wanted to know that the kit will work.Guess he has kit's for the bakelite ones as well. :headscratch: There's a couple around here if they weren't thrown out, will rebuild those as well. :hihihi: Get a bike with a leaking pump in the shop, put a rebuilt one in, & rebuild the old one you just took out. :whistling:
 
He has kits for the bake lites but if you look on the underside of the bake lite impellers you will most likely find hairline cracks. Your call but I haven't found one that I would rebuild and trust not to come apart.
 
Anyone beside me happen to break the waterpump housing trying to drive the old bearings out? I'm glad I can still buy a new one. Perhaps I'll keep working on some old pumps to see of I can rebuild one as a spare.
 
I've never broken one. Would be nice to see a picture of the one that broke for future reference and what you think might have caused it to break. It might save someone else the same outcome.
 
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