Stranded...again....(alternator failure)

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AApple

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Location
Duncanville, Texas
My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
:Awe:

Friggin alternator took a dump, I guess. Engine finally died about 5 miles from the house on the way home. Used my mini-booster box hooked up to the battery to get home. Charged the battery while I wuz eatin supper, and checked...alternator ain't puttin out dick. :sensored:

So...my replacement choices are:
40 amp(stock), and from there up to 90 amp. I haven't added anything to this one, yet. It's all stock, as far as lights and such. However, it does have the side lighting on the trunk, and saddlebags that, as far as I know, is not stock, but is aftermarket, or Honda accessories. I do plan on adding the driving lights off of the '81 to this bike eventually, but not planning on adding anything else, light-wise.
I'm thinking to go to a 70 amp($136/free shipping). Stock 40 amp alternators are around $105. I'm also gunna take this one to the shop tomorrow and open it up....hopefully it only needs brushes.
I do have an AGM battery in it, but it's the one the PO took off his '97 to put on this bike, so I don't really know how old it is.

What say ye? Go back stock(40 amp), or get something with more output? I'll be ordering the alternator prolly tomorrow, so speak now, or forever shut the heck up.... :smilie_happy: .
 
Maybe a shop can up the output on that one doing a rebuild for you? For new and the minor price difference I agree with Dan. Get the 70 amp.
 
Rebuilt mine several years, & many miles ago. :yes: Brushes, front, & rear bearing's, seal's, with small allen bolt's was about it. :headscratch: Just like new, i know it's said front bearing is not replaceable, but it is. :good:
 
I would go with a higher output alternator also, don't forget to order some new rubber dampeners for your new alternator. I went with a 95a alternator when I changed mine, bike had about 70,000 miles on it
 
I put a 90a on mine, got it for the same $ as a stock unit. Don't forget to replace the rubber dampers, and the O-ring can move or crimp causing a small leak of erl. Don't ask me how I know this. :? I also put a Kuryakyn volt meter to prevent the same thing happening again.

~O~

edit- Mine came with a rebuilt unit that was only a few months old and it lasted about 5-8 months.
 
:good:
90 amp it is. Should be here Monday, but prolly won't show up till later. I'm still waitin on some grommets I ordered almost two weeks ago. USPS "miss-sent" them to a different zip....they've been sitting there for a week now, but tracking shows them "in transit, since last Thursday....yeah, right. :sensored:

At least this time, it only took aboot 5 minutes to get the alternator off! :clapping:
 
What a pain ! Had the same thing happen 14 years ago with my new under warranty 2001 GL Valk, Stater blew at In front of Foxwoods casino in heavy traffic with 5 of my friends ALL Harley's ..and the Honda was the only breakdown that trip LOL :roll: well after always ribbing them about their HD's and reliability issues ...Man did i get ROASTED that day "all in good fun" So my buddies helped me push it to a safe lace and went home and fetched a truck/trailor to rescue me..They made me sit bitch and the damn truck had HUGE Harley Davidson Stickers and wings all over it..I got even more ball busting on the way home :smilie_happy: I installed a Kury volt meter LED shown under the Boost gauge here , One green light is 12v and running shows 2 green ..works great and easy installed . Honda warranty repaired N/C i now keep a eye on it like you said ..Good idea . hope you get up and running soon . Best Greg
 
I agree on the 90amp. I also agree to add a voltmeter. The one I have saved my butt more than once. There really is no other means on our bikes to know the condition of the electrical system while riding.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184061#p184061:cf8ysx19 said:
dan filipi » Tue Nov 22, 2016 11:55 am[/url]":cf8ysx19]
Why go 90 when 40 was enough and 70 almost double?
So he can jump start my car! :hihihi:

 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184061#p184061:59gz7rgy said:
dan filipi » Tue Nov 22, 2016 10:55 am[/url]":59gz7rgy]
Why go 90 when 40 was enough and 70 almost double?

1: Well shoot...if a little mo is good, a lot mo has to be mo gooder, right?
2: Because we can....
:hihihi:

Actually, the 90 amp alternators that I looked at are all cheaper or the same(in most cases) than the stock 40a OR the 70a. Same warranties on all that I looked at, all had free shipping. I considered William and Randy's input seriously. Both stated they went with 90/95a alts on theirs. Not that anyone else's input wasn't considered....far from it. I value anyone's opinions/experience in these matters. :yes:

I got the thing opened up, and sure 'nuff, the brushes aren't even touching the armature. Not from wear so much as from crap holding them up into the holder. Durn things will barely move at all, in or out. Problem for me is, the brushes are soldered into the holder, and the brush plate is soldered to the stator windings. I'll hafta pop the front cover off, with the armature still in it, to get to the brushes to try to clean it up and see if I can get them to float properly. If it works, it'll be a temporary fix until the new one comes in. If it don't, then I'm only out some time. At least I don't hafta pull the friggin engine out to do this one. This one takes aboot 5 minutes to get off... :yahoo:

On the subject of volt-meters, I agree that having one is good to keep track of the charging system, but.....having one would NOT have kept the alternator from taking a doo-doo. I already knew it had before it completely shut off on me. I noticed a little stumble on acceleration in 5th at first, then in lower gears. Also noticed the radio would get fuzzy when I used the brakes or turn signals. I knew instantly what was happening, but...I was in evening rush hour traffic, stop/go, and in the left center lane(4 lane road). I knew I had to head right to the shoulder, and as soon as I hit the turn sig to make a lane change, it DIED. I was lucky enough to slide over and get on the shoulder without gettin hit.
I have a sneaky feelin Imma gunna be dealing with a lot of crap like this on this bike....the elements have taken their toll on it over the years, where it wouldn't have been a problem had it been kept inside....
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184063#p184063:1us3u72c said:
slabghost » Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:18 pm[/url]":1us3u72c]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184061#p184061:1us3u72c said:
dan filipi » Tue Nov 22, 2016 11:55 am[/url]":1us3u72c]
Why go 90 when 40 was enough and 70 almost double?
So he can jump start my car! :hihihi:


Naw Slab....that's what this is for..... :smilie_happy:

81NSatLsz1L._SY355_.jpg
 
Good thing that you had your jump pack. :good:
Sounds like my $10 estimate to repair your alternator was way overpriced! :smilie_happy:
 
well dan when my alternator went I got the 95a because there were only 35a and 40a alternators available, mine had a 35a alternator form the factory. I think I'm going to send my 35a alternator out and have it rebuilt so if one of our 1500 guys is on the road in my area and his alternator goes out he or she can borrow mine to get home
 
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