Copper Head Gaskets

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ekvh

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This is for those wondering about copper. I know very little, just sharing what I've learned. Mine was fine but developed a small oil leak on the left by the shifter seal. So I changed the seal, ---no better. This year it got worse. As near as I could tell it was from the oil galley return at the base of the heads. I knew the block was a bit low right where it leaks. I did glass and sandpaper the block to where I thought it would be okay last year. Obviously not.

The tough part to this is the boot to tighten is small, and if I did get lucky with more torque I'm afraid it will crack the head there. ( I've had this happen already and now I know why.)

I used 0.032" copper head gaskets from coppergaskets.us. $55 or $60.

I started with copper coat but had a bad can and gave up. It went on like cottage cheese. On advice of a veteran, I used Permatex Aviation Sealant. A thin coat on each side of the gasket, let it dry, and torque it down. One good heat cycle and retorque. The place that machined my heads said they use Mylomar. I might give that a go.

Today I was able to tear it down.
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What I circled below was a white fleck of something. I don't know what it was, but my guess is my Permatex brush picked up something. You probably can't see it but it left a dent in the copper.
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In this last pic, you can see the jugs did dent the copper leaving slight rings. I will anneal it and give it a go.
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I have to wait for valve seals to reassemble. Probably Sunday or Monday. Using glass and sandpaper with the motor in the frame will be tough. Shift pedal is in the way, no biggie, but starter also will make it tough. I'm hoping to lay the bike down and be able to get a few thousandths off the block to above the bottom bolt. Sure hope my quench area is thick enough. Reading some recent articles makes me think current feeling is less quench on the circumference is a good thing and most have reduced it to a smaller amount.

This will be the third time for this gasket.
 
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