Shorty Shocks

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mcgovern61

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Location
Kingsport, Tennessee
My Bike Models
Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
After my trip to Florida, I found that the oil seals in my air shocks are leaking and there is an oil film all over my final drive. Easy to clean up, but I knew it was a matter of time before they would leak. These are the original rear air shocks that were on the bike from when it sat out in the weather for 12 years before I got it. The rubber boots were split at the bottom, but the pistons were not pitted at all. They cleaned up nicely and surprisingly, held air.

The rubber bushings/grommets are also worn out now and I wanted to upgrade to Progressive springs. There is a chance that all of the rubber needs to be replaced and the shocks need a complete rebuild.

What they looked like when I got the bike in 2007:
image.php


I have been mostly happy with their performance, but they will bottom out when the air drops off and leaks by over time. I noticed that when I remove the valve cap to check or add air, there is always oil in the cap now and oil blows out when I add air.

I have priced up all the parts to rebuild the shocks and it looks like all the parts for the rubber, o-rings, seals and Progressive springs will run about $160 total plus shipping.

I also have always had an issue with flat footing the bike and have lowered the triple tree down 1 1/2" to help with that but always wanted a way to lower the bike a bit.

I found these shorty shocks on Ebay way back when my daughter was going to consider buying that '81 our friend has. So I took a second look and they happened to be on sale for $139 with free shipping (Auction ended and they are now back up at $159.99). They are 1/2" shorter than OEM and appear to have a progressive spring setup (although not made by Progressive). I thought, what the heck, I need shocks, these will help lower the bike, they are similar to Progressive shocks, they are cheaper than all the parts I still need to buy so that I can rebuild mine and it is a matter of basically just swapping them out and grounding out the air pressure alarm.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251460845620?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
For the price, I am willing to try them! :yes:
If they do not perform as expected, back to Ebay they go and I can still rebuild the OEM's. :yes:

image.php
 
They look good. I cant say I care for my stock air shocks, Never had air shocks before and they seem real mushy but they do ride nice..maybe I try progressive springs when I can.
 
Stock & stock after Progressive dampers, & springs, are two different shocks!!! They make a shorter set of dampers, as the stock progressive dampers for these shocks add some height to bike. Must be an issue for a lot of riders, for them to make a shorter set of dampers.
 
The shorties are here! :party:

They are REAL nice!

Minor issue. Since I removed the OEM center stand and installed the Markland ride off centerstand both tires are now on the ground and the shocks are under compression. Let the air out of the OEM shocks and the bike dropped nearly 3 inches (Kinda have the feeling the springs are shot??) Put air back in and brought the bike back up. Put a jack under the trailer hitch and raised the shocks the rest of the way to pull the bolts. (Left the air hoses attached and the shocks filled with air for now.) Popped the left side off and slipped the new shock on (BTW, it came with grease already inside of the rubber bushing for easy installation!)

Reconnected the bolts and let the jack down. The bike did not drop too much! :shock:

The shock is on it's lowest setting and they are 1/2" shorter in total length, but the springs are pretty strong. I'll have to see how this goes when I do the right side tomorrow and take a ride.
 
Would love to take the bike out and test the shocks......BUT........there is this little issue that sorta POPPED up. I fixed the rear tire by plugging the hole last week (pulled a big juicy 8 penny nail out of it). It has been holding air just fine, but I wanted to check the air level. Attached the pump and the air was only down about 6 pounds. Thought I would top it off. Pulled up my daughters Explorer to access 12 VDC for the air pump and the chord was a bit short. Ran it through the window of the truck instead and just as I plugged it it I heard a loud POP and a whistling sound! :shock: (What was that?????)


THE VALVE STEM SPLIT RIGHT AT THE WHEEL AND BLEW OFF!!!!!! :whip: :rant: :head bang: :cheeky:
(Starting to feel like Joel over here....) :hihihi:

So, looks like I ain't riding until I replace the valve........ :head bang:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154051#p154051:uiog7mqa said:
joedrum » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:21 am[/url]":uiog7mqa]
karma :0fftopic: :popcorn:
:smilie_happy: Yup....and I deserved it! :smilie_happy:
 
:0fftopic: another thing and i may be out of line here butt..... i have to say it, while that rear wheel is off.. get rid of the plug and put a good patch on that shinko if you are going to run it.. in my opinion the shinko is way too flexable to hold a plug safe. when i ran a rear shinko(3 tires) i tried 2 times with prof tire shop plugs and both times they let go on the heat on the big road at speed! made a funny mark in my seat! but the 3 patches lasted until the cord was showing. Just had to give my 2cents worth
 
Thanks! The tire with the plug is a Bridgestone Spitfire S11 and the plug is holding, just the valve split. Either way, I am replacing the tire and the valve.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154033#p154033:spfl5hkf said:
dan filipi » Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:20 pm[/url]":spfl5hkf]
I had a rubber stem do the same on a truck.
All my vehicles use metal stems.

When I started changing my own tires, metal stems was the first thing I did to the 1100. They were also the first things I ordered when I started looking for tires for the 1200.
 
When I started changing my own tires, metal stems was the first thing I did to the 1100. They were also the first things I ordered when I started looking for tires for the 1200.

Curious; are all metal stems the same diameter?

I would like to change to metal and use the 90 degree short one. A straight stem is a real pain to get to through my luggage rack and tow hitch.
 
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