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 Post subject: Major Fairing repair
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: June 4th, 2011, 10:12 am

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Here is the original thread submitted by thewhiterhino : Serious Fairing Repairs

After a couple of test rides I decided to finish putting the fairing together. As I was installing the R/H vent I saw what appeared to be a crack at the edge below the vent. I took a sharp object and sure enough there was a loose piece.

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This is the crack I saw, but with it bolted to the fairing mount it didn't move that easy. I immediately disconnected and removed the fairing and after I turned it over I was appalled at the condition of the bottom of the right side.

I decided to remove the radios etc before I began the repair. Once everything was out, (about two hours), I began finding more cracks that went up the inside of the fairing. I began pulling all the loose pieces off and had quite a hole.
I took the fairing to the local car wash and used wheel and time cleaner then soapy water and a rinse prior to starting repairs.

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Beside the pieces that came out cracks were everywhere and there was no real integrity on the whole right side.
I began putting ABS cement on the edges and putting the puzzle back together.

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Near the rear of the fairing I had a piece I couldn't find slightly bigger that a quarter, so I decided to simply fill the hole and putting lots more ABS cement over the entire area and flexed all the cracks to insure the cement got in all the cracks. After about three layers I put the fabric and worked it into the ABS cement. I tried gloves (nitrite) bur found them sticking to the work and simply used my bare fingers to mold the material into the contours while the initial setup began.

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I used two pieces on the outside, lapping on the edge at the bottom on the inside and running the other up the inside to reinforce those cracks. After the initial setup I added two more liberal coats to the whole thing on the outside.

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If you get the cement on the paint and also to clean your hands I use either MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) or Lacquer thinner.

After the outside is setup (no longer sticky) I turned my attention to the inside....

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I repeat the same procedure on the inside except I used three layers of overlapping material on the inside.

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I then notice the missing piece laying on the fairing mount!!!

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Obviously the place I didn't look...

I cleaned up the smears on the paint and there are a few cracks the will show on the lower lip below the vent on the right side. Maybe I'll paint next winter.

Note: It is very important on heavy repairs like this the get all the layers done over a couple of hours because the cement softens the old material and allows it to bond in the cracks. It rather like a remelting of sorts and after several days it cures out again as the volital smelly material leaves the ABS cement.




Attached below is the previous listing about repairing ABS...





Sorry for the delay in replying, I misplaced my cameras, both of them and
finally spent a few hours searching until I found them.

To repair the abs items I use the commonly available abs plumbing cement and a
mesh material that is polyester that is in the roofing section at Lowes and I believe Home Depot.

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If the cracks are severe when you are done the item will require a refinish if you
do a good repair.

The next photo was not a good repair as I was trying to save the finish so I did
not flex the crack to get the cement all the way through. Since the abs cement
is a abs solvent it must get completely into the crack for the beat repair.

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I had previously repaired the large cracks, but the other two mounting holes
have cracks also so this will be my demo repair.
Make sure the underside is clean and free of materials from other attempted repairs.
Cut a piece of material for reinforcement of the affected area. I usually
go well beyond the size of the crack as the repair will also add rigidity to the whole unit.

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Apply a liberal coat of the abs cement and then put the reinforcement
material in the cement and add more over the top.

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I use a tongue depressor stick or similar shaped item to work the material close the
the base material as the cement starts to harden. It has a tendency to lift in the
curves but as the cement thickens it will stay tight with a little encouragement.

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Over the next hour I add a couple of coats until you can hardly see the materials pattern.

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When completely hardened, at least 24 hours, you will see the pattern showing through.
Additional layers can be built up for strength and you can cut up abs fittings to make other
reinforcements as you see fit.

If you have worked the cement totally through the crack there will be a ridge of melted abs
sticking out of the crack on the finish side.

When I did my fairing lowers I added a washer into the mix for more reinforcement.
If you fairing lowers are cracked remember to bend the mounting tabs so there is not
any strain on abs when mounted or they will crack again.

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I hope this helps.

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