1982 Motor Removal and Stator Change

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wedoo2

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Terre Haute, IN
I wanted to record a stator change on my 82 1100. I decided to change the stock stator instead of doing a poor by conversion for reasons stated elsewhere. I'm going to take pictures of the progress as I go along. Could be kind of slow as I have been sick this week and I only have so much energy right now.

Replacing the stator in an 82 1100 requires that the motor be removed as it is located rear of the transmission and cannot be accessed unless the motor is either out altogether, or at least turned sideways enough to get to it. And that would be stupid.

I will try to put bolts and nuts back into where they came from as I go, or bag and tag them. Easiest way to make sure you have the right fasteners and not a bunch of extra parts. Ahem. I also will detail anything that is usually not accessible like the frame and I will be painting the motor while it is out.

So let the fun begin. Need to take all the top stuff off first. I had to loosen the right saddle bag to get to the seat bolt. The saddle bag is fastened with four 10mm bolts, two on the inside and two on the bottom. I found that they stay on fine with the two inside bolts secured.

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This is just to get to the seat bolt. It is an allen head and very long. I use the air wrench.

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Off with the seat.

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In order to get the false tank off (and about a million other things) the lower fairings on both sides need to be removed. There are, usually, three phillips head screws holding them on. Pretty easy stuff so far. I had a couple of 10mm bolts holding mine on.

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Once the lowers are off you can access a 10mm bolt under the false tank on both sides. They are hidden up there.

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Once removed, take the false tank off.

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I'm ready to take the engine guards off but, of course, the exhaust needs to come off first as the guards are wedged in between two of the downtubes. The pipes are attached in a couple of places. There is a crossover tube between the two exhaust pipes and are attached with a holder underneath by two 12mm bolts. There are bolts on each side to attach the pipes to the frame.

There are four studs underneath the cam covers that hold the pipes in place. The exhaust pipes are held in place on each stud by a 12mm nut.

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There are copper rings in each hole in the exhaust and you will not want to loose them. I've been told by some people to change them, some say no. I probably won't change them since I don't have an exhaust leak. Actually, not the hardest thing to change anyway.

No more exhaust.

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Long post, i'm tired.
 
Back at today. Felt too crappy yesterday but my pretty Nurse Practitioner gave me some antibiotics and steroids that are starting to take effect. Feeling better but not sure how far I'll get today.

I am at the point that the fluids need to be drained and if I need to explain that then maybe the reader needs to buy a new car and have the dealership take care of everything. Stay away, far away, from an old motorcycle.

I decided to go ahead and remove the radiator, mostly because I hate the job, both removing and re-installing. There are hoses at the top and bottom that need to be removed and they both have, hopefully, hose clamps that are screwed loose and taken away from the radiator. Remove the horns. a couple of 10mm bolts, along with their electrical connections. I have never had a problem with the polarity of those connections but they may have a right and a wrong.

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You will note that there are three electrical connections that need to be disconnected before the radiator can be removed. One goes to the wiring loom, and the other two go to 1. the top of the motor, 2. for the thermal sensor. A while back that sensor failed on me and the bike overheated. I decided to by-pass the sensor and wired the fan direct with a switch on the fairing. I have more control over the temp now.

My radiator has a screen to protect it from debris, but you can see in the picture below that it lacks efficiency.

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I'll take the time to straighten out those fins before I put it back in. Needs some paint as well.

You can see that I've got a nice collection of parts already.

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More parts.

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Now that the radiator is out I'll start taking things off the top of the bike. Starting with the air cleaner. A little wing nut off the top and then you'll see that I have installed a K&N filter. The thing with these filters are that you need to regularly clean and oil them. I don't know how often for everyone. I suppose it depends the dusty environment you live and ride in.

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It is cooler today but a bit humid. Got the big door open. The problem is the flies, especially while I am sitting here typing. I hate em and I'm already on my second fly swatter this year.

Far as I've got this morning. You may notice the choke cable over the #4 carb. I bought it from eBay and it is a POS. Too short and I'm going to get one from the local dealer to replace it when the motor is out. Thank the Lord that my bike starts fine without choking it.
 
The air box is now out. Just a couple of phillips screws to raise the filter holder and then pull out the air box. There are two hoses that connect to the end of the air box and you need to remember which hose goes where when it all goes back in.

Just killed two flies with one swat.

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My book says to remove the crankcase breather storage tank next. You'll notice the cleverness that is wedoo2 by the Budweiser can bracket that holds it on. I'm real clever, the damn hose had come off the tank. (I wonder if that has any bearing on performance??)

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While I'm there I went ahead and detached the main negative wire from the frame and the starter cable, took off the breather hose and removed the spark plug wires and the little bling pieces that go over the intake horns. All easy stuff.

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:good: Good job so far. Maybe install a new temp sensor can be installed as well - you mention you are going to sell the bike. I have a manual switch and indicator light on mine even with the temp sensor working well. Allows me the flexibility that you have as well.

Keep up the good work. Look forward to following. :popcorn:
 
Next up is to remove the fuel lines and remove the vacuum line from #3 carb. The vacuum line is in the center of the photo. It is a very important connection and the source of a lot of the problems people complain of here, and many other forum posts. Make sure that the line is of good quality and attached at both ends. The distal end goes into the IC

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I removed the fuel lines from the fuel pump. A while back I purchased this fancy fuel filter from Randakk. Cost me $20 and I will probably never need to buy another one.

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What's cool about it is that it comes apart to clean. You can see here that I unscrewed the top and removed the little filter thingy inside. Look at the crap inside. I have decided, after seeing this stuff, that I will drain the tank and clean the petcock.

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Why couldn't this have happened in the winter? Want to get things back together cause I want to go to NASR event in eastern Indiana in mid-July. I ordered the stator, rectumfier and gasket and should get them about the middle of next week.
 
I unhooked the rear brake light spring so it is out of the way. Next up is to remove the clutch and tach cables. The clutch cable has a 10mm nut for adjustment. Simply loosen it then use a screwdriver, or something, to pry up the clutch lever and wiggle out the cable.

The tach cable is a bit harder. Here you an see that it is back behind the fuel pump and there is a bolt holing it in. You can't just unscrew the cable. I found it easier to just remove the fuel pump being careful not to rip up the gasket. It is pretty dirty around there so I may need another on any ole how.

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Here it is off and you can see the bolts that hold it in place.

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Next is the carburetors. First take off the two bolts that are on each of the intake tubes. And loosen the clamps on each.

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Mine were all 10mm. The OEM bolts if I remember are 8mm. Someone told me that they can be tightened a little too tight and could break off when you install them. But I wouldn't know about that. There are o-rings inside each horn and if you loose one you will be waiting a week to get new ones. I'm told. Also, mark each tube as you take them off because they are made for each cylinder. See the o-rings and my mark.

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Rinse, repeat three more times. The manual says that you can keep the carbs on the bike and bungee them to the frame, but I want to check the float levels while the bike is down so I took them out. Now, anyone who has done this knows that removing the carbs from an 1100 is not easy. But it can be done with a lot of adjusting, wiggling, cussing and a big hammer.

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Looks like crap in there, but I did find a cigarette lighter I lost at a stoplight one day.

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Then I broke off some of my fly swatter. What next?

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Great job report and photos Jack. Keep swatting those flys, mine looks similar but I have taken to killing Asian geckos with it. :hihihi:
 
Thanks for the encouragement. Behind the rubber boot below is my least favorite part of the disassembly. The circlip removal. Now, I am not a circlip guy.I usually just break the damn things because I have yet to find a decent tool to get them off. I broke this one too. Of course. So the next three pictures are of the circlip area. First the boot, then where the clip is and after I broke it off and pushed the drive shaft towards the rear to clear the motor.

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Okay.

Now we're getting there. Only thing left to remove are the mounting bolts. There are three each on the top brackets, two bolts towards the rear underneath and one long one at the rear and a long one at the bottom of the frame forward.

The 1100 has a nice feature that there is a removable frame section on the left side. I don't know how the motor would come out without that. Nuts in the front and the left foot peg off and the frame piece of out of here.

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Lousy pic since I don't have all of the things to remove in the shot. You'll find them. Now you need some kind of a jack underneath the motor to raise and lower the motor as you loosen these fasteners to relieve tension. Then to lower the motor out when all is loose. I did not have any help today to take this out, but I didn't need it. Just keep it all balanced and you'll do fine. Better yet have a few beers and you'll be twice as strong.

No beer, but it is out.

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I circled the area where the removable frame section would have been and an arrow to the piece.

I need to clean up my area then begin the process of cleaning the frame etc. Then all of these pieces need work, check the float levels in the carbs and getting the motor ready for paint. I have several days before my parts come in. I already have a tracking number so things have shipped. I got the gasket from Saber Cycle and my experience in the past has been yucky. But the last time I ordered from them the item came fast and was the right thing.

I just don't want to have to send anything back. Last time I tried that I got banned.

I'll start the motor over the weekend and post pictures of that. Still trying to design the paint scheme in my head. Going to look at some Gold Wing motors and we'll see. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Back at it this morning. Raindrops keep falling on my pool, but that doesn't mean my motor gonna stay this gross..Oily's not for me, No.
Oh well, enough of that.

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I want to get at this engine cleaning but there is a hottie on Sportscenter with a low cut black pantsuit showing more cleavage than the butt-crack of a plummer. She is talking about the World Cup or something about LeBron but I am having trouble listening.

Number one son helped me get the motor up on my cabinet and will be around when the engine goes back in. Cleaning this, and getting it ready for paint will be in several steps. I'm using the cheapo Autozone degreaser and ruing some rags to get the worst of the crap off. And it is very oily. Then I'll be cleaning with Dawn and some pre-paint or mineral spirits.

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While the engine is out you will want to clean the oil pickup screen shown here. In fact you may want to do this real soon after you see mine. And this is only after less than 10,000 miles. There is an o-ring in the shape of a rectangle behind the cover so go slow unless you enjoy ordering parts.

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Yuck

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Kinda blury but you get the idea. Here is how it is supposed to look. Be careful here, there are three teeny tiny little screws holding that screen in so don't loose them.

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Back at it now. I won't post pictures of how to clean something with Dawn. Your wife would be more than happy to demonstrate the procedure. Lots more while I watch paint dry.

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Her name is Nicole Briscoe. I just realized that she has a face. A nice one at that.
 
I'll do a flush Ernest and make sure it is all clean. I have had overheating problems in the past and I want no more. Will post pics too.

Low and behold I received my stator and recumfier in the mail today. So, what the hell. let's put them in. The engine is very clean now. I have cleaned and cleaned. I got a nice brush and some Purple Power and seriously (almost) can live with the current paint job. But I want another color.

In order to get to the stator the clutch cover, pulse generator and the rear engine cover has to come off. Here you see the PG off. There are just a few 10mm bolts to free and that is easy. But there is also a real small dowel that you need to be careful not to loose.

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Here is the cover to the PG and the actual, in the flesh pulse generator. My god man, keep your bolts together. There is a test that can be done with the PG and I will do that before I button everything up.

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The clutch cover comes off next. All 10mm bolts. These are fragile so you need to get in touch with your torque wrench and do it right.

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Then the rear enbgine cover.

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This would be a great time to change your clutch plates and springs (if they need replacing). But I did that less than 10k ago. The bike shifts great with not the normal Honda clunk that I have experienced in other bikes; and I've had a VF500, CB750 and 900C and another 1100. All clunked into gear. Never had that with any Suzuki I've owned. The Gold Witch shifts nice.

Here is the rear cover off and you can see the stator that I need to replace. My past experience has been that the screws holing it in can be stripped easy enough so I will have the impact driver handy.
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Probably all for tonight. I'm emptying some beer bottles so I don't need to delude myself into super mechanic. Tomorrow: replace the stator and recumfier then prime and start the painting. Still waiting on the rear cover gasket, and it should be here tomorrow.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=203811#p203811:1gata3pk said:
Ansimp » June 22nd, 2018, 7:27 pm[/url]":1gata3pk]
Great job report and photos Jack. Keep swatting those flys, mine looks similar but I have taken to killing Asian geckos with it. :hihihi:

I think my new, yellow, fly swatter would kill an Asian Gecko. I saw pictures of them having sex. And I don't care if they are flies, geckos or a Kardashian having sex, they're going to die.
 
Pretty sure it does Ernest and now would be a good time to check it. I know nothing about them though. I will learn.
 
Just looked it up and there is a starter clutch (sprague). You need three small parts - 3 of each.

Roller - 91101-516-000
Cap, starter clutch roller spring - 28126-516-020
Spring, starter clutch roller - 28125-516-030

The starter clutch is on the back of the rotor.

Good luck
 
Up and at em again this morning and watching Nicole Briscoe on SportsCleavage, aaah SportsCenter. My new habit. And the compelling baseball season and NBA free agency that is not yet happening. None of which interests me but summer dresses do.

I could watch Morning Joe and see how evil Trump is. Or the blonde news network which has become state media. I thought it funny the other day when I heard, I think, Donald Jr. say that if Trump walked on water across the Potomac that MSNBC would say he couldn't swim. funny line. But in the end it is all noise and I tune it out. Joe used to be a Republican.

I looked at the post on the parts for the starter clutch and they are cheap to change. But I wonder what would be the signs of starter clutch failure? The bike starts fine. I have had two occasions where gas got into the 2 & 4 cylinders and I got that little clunk. Worry more about my rods than the starter. Replacing these parts will add several days so I am debating this in my mind.

I will be getting the gasket for the rear cover later today when the mail comes so I have to decide by then. Will take off the old stator and put in the new one. I was wrong about it being attached by screws. Nice little bolts. Easy. Will post pictures.
 
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