Valve cover polishing

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Fitz2at

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I spent about 6hrs wet sanding the covers going from 400 grit up to 1500 grit. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep them looking good other than high temp clear coat that turns yellow. Here's a picture of the before and after.
IMGP4400.jpg


Fitz
 
Thanks for the replys. Like I said 6hrs of polishing and sore elbows to boot but I guess it's worth it. I was going to do the timing belt covers to but decided against it. I am just going to paint them with some high temp silver. They would be a bich to keep polished and clean if ya know what I mean.
 
I've been using a spraycan product for some time in car restorations, bike rebuilds, etc., for any (non-body) part that I've covered in a glossy color that seems to drastically extend that period of time in which new paint still looks good. It's a clearcoat with really great protection against chemicals, scuffing, and your kids spilling their pop all over the engine compartment.

I'm guessing it's maybe the stuff you alluded to above when you said "wheel coverings." It's a Dupli-Color product called "High Performance Wheel Coating." Comes in various colors, but I've only ever used the clear.

Works great if you get the surface perfectly clean (I use acetone for bare metal prep) and I've not seen any yellowing on parts after three years.
 
Have you tried it on any engine parts that have contact to heat? I'll bet it turns yellowish after a good run in.
 
Wheels get pretty hot with brake heat transfer. I would think the clear mentioned would hold up well.
 
MAAS metal polish about every 4-6 months will keep 'em shiny.

Those look good but I always go from that state to the polishing wheel. Brown compound first then green, they will look like new money. These were almost that bad when I first got the bike as well as the runners and carbs. Lot of time involved but well worth the end results.

I use Mar-Hyde Tal Strip aircraft paint stripper to get the old clear off. I saves a bunch of sand paper and elbow grease at the beginning. Stuff's pretty good as it won't harm the aluminum but take the clear coat right off. I don't put anything on my polished aluminum but MAAS but a friend who's pretty good at this uses the dupli-color clear someone else mentioned and said it's good stuff. If I do my wheels I would likely use the dupli-color on them just because of the exposure to lots of dirt and water.

CIMG3480.jpg
 
the better you polish the aluminum the longer it will stay nice... a good finish on the metal is usually good enough to keep them looking good for a long time. typically with just a wash once in a while.
mothers mag wheel polish works pretty well when you wash the bike to keep them nice and shiny.
 
I use semi-chrome polish now used to use a french polish called Quator pronounced water. it was like cotton soaked in a blue compound like polish. Shines aluminium till it looks like chrome and gave good protection against tarnish ...
Used to pick it up at swap meets .Aint seen none in years though. :roll:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180892#p180892:3w0765w3 said:
Denver » Today, 8:58 am[/url]":3w0765w3]
Probably very similar to never dull wadding. :headscratch:

Nope not even close. :BigGrin: I used never dull first then Quator for tha finish shine. It would take tha dull off lots of stuff. Used it on paint touch ups for finall blend and gleem . Windshield dull rubs even polished my shades and reading glasses. I miss it terrible :crying:
 
Too bad, :sensored: like SO MANY things us old guys used back in the day, that is no longer available, or made. :rant:
 
I prefer keeping up on the polishing over clear coating. But if clear is what your after Google 2k spray max. It is a 2 part clear in an aresol can. Just puncture the catylist bladder and good to go. Top quality clear in a simple spray can. Not mess no clean up.
After trying it on some less important stuff I used it to clear my DT360
 

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