frankroche
Well-known member
So I removed my old regulator / rectifier and replaced it with a Shindengen (or according to one supplier a "fake" one). These cost about 20.00 (the supplier mentioned adds 3 feet of battery cable and gets 128.95 plus shipping) and includes everything in the picture.
It fit on the bracket left after taking off the the regulator and the bracket. Fits under the false tank and wires in nicely as you can see from the pictures. The voltmeters all read 13.2 volts but the battery terminals read 14.3 with a meter at idle (about 1000 RPM), headlight on, brake off.
According to the fairing mounted voltmeters (2, 1 digital and illuminated for dark and 1 gauge not illuminated) braeak light on drops about a volt.
I'll let you know if it doesn't work or fails, but to save 100.00 bucks!!
In thinking it through, probably new wires, new connectors wiring it direct probably works like it used to when new!
No instructions, no polarity shown had to hook up the stator and start the bike and test to find out neg/pos, i doesn't make full voltage at that point but you can find neg and pos.
It fit on the bracket left after taking off the the regulator and the bracket. Fits under the false tank and wires in nicely as you can see from the pictures. The voltmeters all read 13.2 volts but the battery terminals read 14.3 with a meter at idle (about 1000 RPM), headlight on, brake off.
According to the fairing mounted voltmeters (2, 1 digital and illuminated for dark and 1 gauge not illuminated) braeak light on drops about a volt.
I'll let you know if it doesn't work or fails, but to save 100.00 bucks!!
In thinking it through, probably new wires, new connectors wiring it direct probably works like it used to when new!
No instructions, no polarity shown had to hook up the stator and start the bike and test to find out neg/pos, i doesn't make full voltage at that point but you can find neg and pos.
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