Jetting ford escort carb on cb1000

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It runs, had a hard time dealing with vacuum leaks. the rubber boots are old and hard, anyway Got them sealed up. The idle is very good and responds to throttle very quickly. Starting is almost instant when shut off warm. Have a bit of fuel puddling in the rear of the vw manifold, as I,m only using the front two runners. Remember its winter here in Nova Scotia, Canada and even if I warm up the garage I have to open the door and things cool off quick. The puddling is no more than 2 or 3 tablespoons of fuel. I was thinking of heat and using handgrip inserts but luckily found a car seat heating pad, 35 watts. It is two 7 by 7 inch pads with stiff resistor wire to help form it around the manifold. Havent done it yet. Plugged in the heating pads and the get pretty warm, maybe 140 to 145, also if needed i can cut apart a set of booster or jumper cables and wrap them bare wires around the exhaust and come up to the bottom of the manifold. A third option is to use the oil cooler this bike has, By making new hoses and reroute a hose up to the manifold and using steel line epoxied to the bottom of the manifold will work. I,m holding off on the weber as I have a cb900c also. The weber would dump fuel in the right side of the manifold to correct this The weber would have to be centered with an adapter.Anyway will record a video next time
 
Sounds good. Glad it’s running ...yes vacuum leaks can be nasty to deal with...that hose is stiff...maybe you can block off unuse side better to eliminate pooling ...my type manifold has the raise rib in the center ...but some don’t ... :popcorn:
 
Well I am on stage 3. I,m a big guy and didn't fit, So the vw plenum had to go, I made a 5 inch by 5 inch by 1.5 inch plenum with the runners coming up from the bottom. What I did different is that I linked 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3. I put a divider in the plenum and had to turn the autolite 2100 carb sideways Basically I.m using the autolite as 2 carbs. #One and #four cylinders have there pistons at the top at the same time one on firing the other on intake and ##two and three at the bitton at the same time. This is why only two coils with wasted spark This way the pulses in the divided plenum would not work against each other. The other way I had it each cylinder would draw from both barrels now each cylinder draws from one barrel, so I doubled the length of time between pulses but doubled the strength of the draw {pulling from one barrel instead of two} another way to see it is a comparison between a dual plane intake manifold on a 350 chev, 4 cylinders drawing one at a time from one barrel and the other side drawing on the other, now a single plane manifold on the same engine would case a bit of a lazyer bottom end power because each cylinder is drawing from both barrels but improving top end by better breathing. So my cb1000c is running good, idles well responds well but a little rich smell, luckily enough this carb uses holley jets. It has two .048 jets so i just ordered from Jegs 46 44 42 40 to cover all bases , This carb also uses a holley power valve which I have blocked of. I also used oil to heat the base of the plenum, I soldered 3/8 steel line bent around the base of the phenom, II cut into the oil cooler line and ran up to the plenum. The cb1000c and cb900c and cb1100f have two oil pumps stacked so the oil cooler doesn't rob the engine oil pressure The cb750 dohc is the same architecture but has one pump and no cooler. I will get some pictures up to show it better and help explain things. Again this site has helped me immensely and I thank all of you who have posted their single carb experience
 
The autolite 2100 or motorcraft 2100 and 2150 were used on ford v8s from 221 cubic inch to the 390 and 400. It was made from 1957 to early 80s They had the venturi written on the side of the carburetor
.98 1.01 1.02 1.08 1.12 1,21. The one I,m using is a .98 venturi 190cfm from a 1962 221 winsor v8 in a fairlane. They love these carbs in the jeep world because it will run very well at steep angles and its annular boosters give excellent throttle response and economy also no gasket below the fuel bowel and the jets are at the bottom of the fuel bowel. The autolite carb is a bit bigger in physical size to the weber.
The weber suits you guys for space on the wings and the pict 30 has made a few very happy also. Again will post pictures soon
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=202394#p202394:1o54i7ia said:
desertrefugee » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:19 pm[/url]":1o54i7ia]
This is a crazy interesting build. Good on you for "going where no man has gone before."
+1 :good:
 
[video]https://youtu.be/DOwJjo2LiMc[/video]

Here are a couple of videos, 'll post one then the other, hope it works
 
Got it on the road, had to replace the 2100 autolite carb with a holley 1904. I have the plenum heated and when the bike was up to temperature the 2100 could not be dialed in. The 1904 is off a industrial 144 cubic inch Ford 6 cylinder. The venturi is realy small but if works good. A bit of tuning left, Also this is the carb that used to have the glass bowl ,so I have one of those ordered, ebay, and gaskets from mikes carburetors. I will post some pictures soon to show the transition.
 
This is the finished process, I had made carburetor changes many times, I went from a ford escort weber to a ford 2 bbl to a 140 cid 6 cyl holley 1904 1bbl, and now finally a 1920 holley 1 bbl from a 223cid jeep from 1965. The 1904 holley worked good but the venturi was smaller than an inch and had the choke plate as part of venturi, it had good low end torque but ran out of air at about 5500 rpm. about 65mph and it wold climb very slowly to about 70mph and then was done. Now with the holley 1920, its throttle plate was large and the venturi was as large with a crucifix type booster. I bet I could drop an american dollar down threw the venturi. I was not thinking it would work, my surprise was how good it worked once the plenum got up to temperature with oil heat. very nice bottom end torque, no hesitation even good roll on in high gear thats with the power valve in operation, with power valve blocked it would hesitate. So this carb is using all its circuits. Now up to about 6500 rpm and this carb is finished, I could run it to about 75mph. Now I have come to the conclusion that my 1 inch diameter runners are chocking the system down, Now I am thinking going to an 1 1/4 inch piping and use an open plenum instead of a divided plenum What worries me that if I go with larger runners and an open plenum instead of a divided plenum, will I loose the high velocity that I have now with the small diameter runners and make the 1920 carb not work. My other thought is to go back to the weber. I still look at this as a success because in the rev range that the bike works it works very well. you would be hard pressed to know that it had one carb.I used 1959 cadilac tail lights and model t cowl oil lamps and converted them to an 1156 bulb. rear signal lights are 39 chev and horns are 69 roadrunner, f#$king loud. The sissy bar is a noose and twisted square iron with scull medallion,. Made by a guy in your country, talented guy Any way thanks for the help
 

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