1982 Motor Removal and Stator Change

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I agree with Joe. Jobs like this are always longer and more difficult than expected. Not to mention the need for a new supply of pain killers.
 
I have had more problems with this than anyone would deserve. I have the motor out now for the third time. After changing the stator and putting it all back together the bike wouldn't start.

I thought that the problem was a loose wire connecting the pulse generator to the wiring harness. Fixed that and put the motor back in. When I did that it still wouldn't start and was making bad clanging noises.

Out came the motor again. Turns out that a pin that aligns the pulse generator with the crankshaft was sheared off throwing the timing completely off. I fixed that today and recorded that in another thread called starting clutch in the 1100 section.

It is ready to put back together except the large gasket has a tear in it. Hopefully that clanging wasn't one of the rods. That is a thought that I just had. If so, then... I've long ago stopped cussing but I could use a break here. Thinking about trying some gasket maker and putting the whole thing back together. Not sure if that is smart or not. My luck.......
 
Have used flange gasket sealant to repair a torn gasket that is in good condition many times successfully. :yes: :builder:
 
Yeah, I think that things will be okay. I just have to wait for the gasket to come in and put it all back together. I've been at this for over a month so another couple of days won't matter and I know if I try to rig it that it will leak. Then I am seriously putting it on the market.
 
My simple stator change that has morphed into a month of education is, hopefully, nearly over. I got my gasket that covers all the back cover and put that on yesterday.

My question was how to set the timing correctly. Mind you, the service manual gives you absolutely nothing on how it's done. One small sentence about a notch on the pulse generator, where to put a timing light and the fact that there is no timing adjustment.

I found out from a good poster on the GWdocs site that if you set the timing mark at F1, insert the PG and make sure that the pin at the end of the pulser shaft is in the notch cut into the end of the crank, that both poles at the pulser will line up. See here:

PG_POLES.jpg


Mine lined up almost perfectly.

The motor is back on the bike now and somewhat secured. Will start hooking up things this evening and hopefully everything will work and I can ride a bit this weekend. Your prayers are appreciated.
 
well if i remember right ..it can still be 180 degrees off ..but im just not sure on this its been so long since ive done this ..but im thinking i had mine off 180 degrees ..hopefully yours is spot on ...ive had the pin fall out on mine ..then 180 degrees off ..then right .. amazing how loose that pin is on some bikes
 
It kinda looked like it snapped off Joe. I may have done it somehow. Hopefully me trying to start it and listen to it clank that I haven't broke anything in there. We'll see when I get it all back together.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=205444#p205444:jrmy6dhc said:
dan filipi » Thu Aug 16, 2018 5:43 pm[/url]":jrmy6dhc]
I’m pretty sure it can’t go on 180 degrees wrong, but if it is then you can simply swap the primary coil wires and that will set it right.

Whoa! That's a great idea. I'm glad I thought of it!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=205444#p205444:2qshfg39 said:
dan filipi » 52 minutes ago[/url]":2qshfg39]
I’m pretty sure it can’t go on 180 degrees wrong, but if it is then you can simply swap the primary coil wires and that will set it right.

That's encouraging Dan. I think I have it right from what I've been able to gather, but I wonder what the Clymer's says about this???
 
You don't know how much I want an 1800 right now. With less than 1000 miles.

Especially after fighting that damn snap ring at the drive shaft. If that hole was just an inch bigger.
 
Yeah, I can just imagine the designers for the 1200 around a table asking the assembly line guys how they could speed up production.

The guy that mates the drive shaft pipes up.. That Damn Spring Clip!
 
I have the motor back on the bike but the bike will barely turn over. The battery is at 12.5 v, I have checked all of my connections, made sure that the ground was secure. I have had no problem with the switch up until now, but I guess you never know. It did turn over pretty good at first??? Thinking about taking the starter off the thing and see if it turns over freely on the bench. Can I test the starter by jumping it directly to a battery source without having to take it out? Suggestions?
 
Try cranking it with the kill switch to OFF, and a volt meter connected to read battery voltage.
If it drops below 10 volts, the battery is probably weak.
Could also try jumping it from a car battery without the car engine running.
If it’s still cranking slow, the starter may need a cleaning and new brushes.

Might be a good idea before trying all that, to crank it with all the plugs removed to be sure the cylinders are clear.
 
I did try to turn it over without the plugs without joy. And tried to jump it as well. Next step in the Gold witch journey, remove the starter.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=205520#p205520:3drrw0yi said:
wedoo2 » Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:29 am[/url]":3drrw0yi]
... Can I test the starter by jumping it directly to a battery source without having to take it out? Suggestions?

Yeah, in fact, I'd do that before pulling it out in the off chance you still have connection issues going down to the starter. They take a lot of current and need optimal current path, i.e. connections - solenoid, grounding, etc.

You can apply a good, solid 12V to the positive lug on the side of the starter case with the other side well grounded. I'd use an "offline" battery. If you use the bike's battery, where you'd only need to supply a hot side jumper, there'd still be the question of whether the battery itself was good, or maybe the ground connections...and you still wouldn't know if the starter was at fault.
 
Would the solenoid make it drag? My thinking on it is it works or it doesn't.

Would an unfortunate fire be in the best interests of all?
 
I just tested the starter from the truck battery and it sounded sick. Just barely turned over. I'm going to take it and look at things. Hoping not to loose my religion. I believe I've done this before. Manual says to remove the motor, but I think we know better.
 
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