Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97855#p97855:3gpfc50w said:

westgl » Sat Sep 28, 2013 5:52 pm[/url]":3gpfc50w]
Jungo

Did you try adjusting BOTH screws out 2-1/2 turns each.

That I think is your adjustment.

If both screws are not adjusted the same amount, 2-1/2 turns out, then it throws the other one off.

Give that a try, it dont cost nothing

Click to expand...

Yup West, I tried those settings to start but the bike can't move. The only way she take off with those settings are if I rev up to 4,000RPM's. I tried a lot of settings without any success. I spent all day and night reading of this carb and all tutorials are exactly the same, and all finish saying the same: :rtfm: "If you find it difficult or impossible to make these settings, it is possible that you could have stripped threads on any of these adjusters, a damaged hole for the tapered screw, or a damaged needle valve or O-ring. This can cause (among other things) adjustment of the carburetor impossible." :rtfm:

The only way she can move is with the Bypass screw almost close and the volume control 7 turns out. :shock: Is obvious that with this settings she will run rich.

Yes sounds like a problem, with the used carb, either not clean, worn, or something else going on from PO.

Well if your Birthday gift will be one of Tom's Brand new 32DFT carbs, it should run excellent out of the box, if everything else is right, and no vacuum leaks.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97883#p97883:111esxf2 said:

Jungo » Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:39 pm[/url]":111esxf2]

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97855#p97855:111esxf2 said:

westgl » Sat Sep 28, 2013 5:52 pm[/url]":111esxf2]
Jungo

Did you try adjusting BOTH screws out 2-1/2 turns each.

That I think is your adjustment.

If both screws are not adjusted the same amount, 2-1/2 turns out, then it throws the other one off.

Give that a try, it dont cost nothing

Click to expand...

Yup West, I tried those settings to start but the bike can't move. The only way she take off with those settings are if I rev up to 4,000RPM's. I tried a lot of settings without any success. I spent all day and night reading of this carb and all tutorials are exactly the same, and all finish saying the same: :rtfm: "If you find it difficult or impossible to make these settings, it is possible that you could have stripped threads on any of these adjusters, a damaged hole for the tapered screw, or a damaged needle valve or O-ring. This can cause (among other things) adjustment of the carburetor impossible." :rtfm:

The only way she can move is with the Bypass screw almost close and the volume control 7 turns out. :shock: Is obvious that with this settings she will run rich.

Click to expand...

it would be my choice over the solex for sure ....if I was getting another carb ... hard to argue new at the cost .. over options on stock of all high cost anything .. the rip off is just isane to fall into

Jungo, others

The carb adjustments on the 32DFT progressive carb are.

Besides the Idle speed set screw

1. Idle mixture screw,

That's it, first adjust your Idle speed to 950-RPM.

Then Idle mixture screw adjust to highest rpm, then adjust idle speed back to 950 rpm if it changed, keep adjusting till highest level is achieved and idle speed is still at 950 rpm done.

really very easy

Got mine up and running with 740 today, seems good so far, I will take some pics and post tomorrow, did a little twist on my intake runners I think everybody will like, don't want to spoil the surprise....

cool

opcorn: :music: :rocks:

Took her out for a shakedown ride this morning, 4 pumps of the throttle, fired right up, held at 2500 rpm's for about a minute, idle was a little rough for about another minute, but didn't go dead, then smoothed out at about 1000 rpm, love the throttle response and the torque is awesome, best it has run since I have owned it, many thanks to all you guys for this great forum, I learned a lot from reading everyone else's trial and error, my intake runners are made from 2, 18 inch by 1 1/2 stainless bathroom grab bars, get the exposed screw version, $18.95 each at home depot, I used big block chevy water pump gaskets and a thin coat of black rtv to seal to the heads, took about an hour each runner to get bolt holes located properly, I stuffed a paper towel down the ports in the heads, and set a shallow well socket that fit port snugly down the port and set runner over it to keep it centered over the port, located and drilled the bolt holes, then set one of the stock intakes on the bottom of the flange, lined up the bolt holes, then marked outline of stock intake and cut off excess flange, then grind to final shape, there is only about a 1/8th inch gap between runner and plenum. I used fuel rated hose for the connections , the mandrel bends, pre welded flanges, and smooth inner surface of the stainless tube made this a no brainer, being bolted directly to the heads gives good heat transfer, I am also working on a brace for the plenum, (thanks West ! ), that should give me some heat there also, maybe this will help someone else with their conversion, Single carb forever !!!

looks great ...

Yes that looks very nice!!!

Give us a ride report!!

Is that a 32DFt carb.?

did you take off the choke?

hmmm I wonder if he used chokes ....not a bad setup at all ....I bet the 1 1/2 was OD on pipe ....40$ on runners is not bad ....

i'm thinkin the choke is there cos

fired right up, held at 2500 rpm's for about a minute, idle was a little rough for about another minute, but didn't go dead, then smoothed out at about 1000 rpm

Click to expand...

maybe she got ruff cos the plate was slow to open, or hangin

oh im talking choking down type 4 plenum exits....to the heads to speed air in carb

A rough idle for another minute or two is not a problem, if the temp was cooler, or more humidity in the air.

That's the great white North up there dont ja know

Remember how the Oem 4 carb rack would start, it would be Cold Blooded, and not happy for a few minutes.

I would say even if you bike starts good and after a minute of two it idles nicely, I still ride it like it is cold, and take it easy, keeping the load low, till it is sufficiently warmed up some.

It is a reman 740 I got off ebay, I removed choke, Idle solenoid, plugged the high altitude enrichener fitting below fuel inlet, took top off and removed plunger from purge solenoid, cut the coil off purge solenoid and plugged the hole in the threaded part and screwed it back in to stop up that hole, pulled the purge tube fitting and plugged that hole, also used uni link on opposite side from original throttle arm, I will practice with my camera and see if I can get some clearer pics of mods, I may have to pull it back off to show

I am in north Georgia, U.S. , screwed up and it won't let me edit profile till I make a few more posts, it is 80 degrees here, I may have to set up manual choke for winter, I am pretty much a fair weather rider nowadays anyway though

You may find that the choke will be a big waste of time.

As i have tried it in 40 degree weather, my bike REJECTS any manual choking i have giving it up to this point.

Just more blips of the throttle, and hold the revs at 2k or so, for a minute or two.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98648#p98648:hqba57xm said:

shovelking81 » Sat Oct 05, 2013 12:30 pm[/url]":hqba57xm]
I am in north Georgia, U.S. , screwed up and it won't let me edit profile till I make a few more posts, it is 80 degrees here, I may have to set up manual choke for winter, I am pretty much a fair weather rider nowadays anyway though

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