Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

Here is all the stuff I removed except the plunger and coil from the purge solenoid, and a couple pics of throttle, poor pics but you can see enough to get the idea, I used throttle arm and cable bracket from weber dgav I had from a Jeep project, had to add a small link for cable mount, simple stuff

Shovelking that looks good to me.

Throttle cable hold bracket looks like it would work good.

Wow!!

More and more people are jumping on the Single carb band wagon.

I dont blame them, I already have planed a single carb. for my 84' GL1200 Valk. Single.

Then selling my 4 carb rack on e-bay, problem is, probably to a Noob, he will buy it, and start a journey it to 4carb crap-ville, population one more Noob.

Yeah know what you mean, I would make someone a bargain in my stock rack, complete with manifolds, airbox, and 3 new air filters that came with the bike, they ran, just need a thorough cleaning, I've got a ton of stuff that came off this bike that is in good condition, would like to get it to someone who could use it

Thanks for the compliment West, I have been following your thread on this closely, has been a lot of help to me, I have been doing this kind of stuff a long time, I try to make things look as good as I can on a shoestring budget, function comes first but neatness is nice, and yes the throttle works great

ok I sent a pm I guess you havnt noticed it shovalking81.....top right on the page to click on ....anyway ineed that throttle piece you took off your carb ...if you don't mind to to get rid of it ...ive got a carb that lacks this piece and my bike is set up to use it ....thanks if you can help me here ...and yes it is exciting how the single carb has come to life here on this forum ....I just did a ride yesterday ...im so glad that my move to find some carburation for the 1200 nod bike hooch has led to westgl and his way of promoting this issue where others qickly joined in with all kinds of intrest ... and things got tried ....tyour set up is clean ...I renenber when you first posted about getting the bathromm hardware an thinking cool wish I had the money for that ....my budget is a broke shoestring :headscratch: iwill have to look into this as its getting clear to me ive got all things figured out ...the bike runs like its on steroids ....I will probably go to home depot an get this stuff cause it really dose seem to be the best caveman tech way to final product ...so big time honor to you for gathering all the info and coming up with nice final package deal ....that's what makes this forum so good its rather inclusive to the ones who play towards a goal ..and rather shuts down the posting discounters.... :good: :good:

Pm sent Joe, here is what you need from home depot, 2 glacier bay grab bar, p/n gb10018-21 , and gasket p/n is 30060 fel-pro , available at any auto parts store, and lots of patience fitting, cutting, and grinding, a trip across the wire wheel on my bench grinder gave them the polished look

thanks ....pretty much a done deal on hooch

Good idea Shovelking,

I like the S.S. tubing, looks Nice!!!.

Any idea what the ID of the tubing is?

I think it was mentioned, I will have to re-read.

Now to figure out, reducing the ID, for Fasst charge speed, and chokes, for more torque, If needed.

Shovelking

Is the flange welded to the tube?

If so is it completely seam welded?

How are make the seal between the flange and the tube at the head?

So that you dont have any Vacuum leaks?

18 inch by 1 1/2 stainless bathroom grab bars
home depot, 2 glacier bay grab bar, p/n gb10018-21

Click to expand...

Didn't measure inside diameter, yes the flanges are welded completely, smaller tubes probably would make more torque, but as is I can bring mine up between 1500 and 2000 rpm, ease the clutch out and go, I weigh 340, so that is good enough for me, I saw some smaller diameter bars on ebay, looked like the same flange, you might try them and see how it works, I would be curious to know, I used the 1 1/2 for easier hose seal, less transition difference....

I am thinking that if I had any vacuum leaks there would be obvious rideability issues, so far I have ridden it about 150 miles, no issues of any kind

Shovelking

The Tubing size all boils down to one or two details.

1. Does the bike run good?
2. Does the bike take off from a stop good?
3. Does the bike run good without any hesitation or Bogging?

If you do not have any of those, issues and power feels good, then dont worry about any tuning.

If bike seems like most of it's power is way up high and you would like to bring some of that down in the rev band some, then it will take some tuning to get it there.

Or there is always, it is close enough for now, I will ride it till the season is over, then tune a little.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98746#p98746:h0b0o7pc said:

shovelking81 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:11 pm[/url]":h0b0o7pc]
Didn't measure inside diameter, yes the flanges are welded completely, smaller tubes probably would make more torque, but as is I can bring mine up between 1500 and 2000 rpm, ease the clutch out and go, I weigh 340, so that is good enough for me, I saw some smaller diameter bars on ebay, looked like the same flange, you might try them and see how it works, I would be curious to know, I used the 1 1/2 for easier hose seal, less transition difference....

Click to expand...

I have looked high and low at local Home Depots as well as on line Home Depot Canada and cannot find the Glacier Bay SS grab bar with exposed screw. They have the conceal screw type but for the GW I need exposed screws.

However there is a Moen grab bar R7418 that is available that looks similar. But the flange looks rather thin and the tube size is 1 1/4" (which might actually work better for GW). Take a look and tell me what you think.
https://www.moen.ca/moen-home-care/stain ... ER%3AR7418

Thanks
Brian

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98751#p98751:2ety24gs said:

westgl » Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:50 pm[/url]":2ety24gs]
Shovelking

The Tubing size all boils down to one or two details.

1. Does the bike run good?
2. Does the bike take off from a stop good?
3. Does the bike run good without any hesitation or Bogging?

If you do not have any of those, issues and power feels good, then dont worry about any tuning.

If bike seems like most of it's power is way up high and you would like to bring some of that down in the rev band some, then it will take some tuning to get it there.

Or there is always, it is close enough for now, I will ride it till the season is over, then tune a little.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98746#p98746:2ety24gs said:

shovelking81 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:11 pm[/url]":2ety24gs]
Didn't measure inside diameter, yes the flanges are welded completely, smaller tubes probably would make more torque, but as is I can bring mine up between 1500 and 2000 rpm, ease the clutch out and go, I weigh 340, so that is good enough for me, I saw some smaller diameter bars on ebay, looked like the same flange, you might try them and see how it works, I would be curious to know, I used the 1 1/2 for easier hose seal, less transition difference....

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I need to add to this that you should be getting at least 40 mpg.
If not then there's need for tuning.

Yes Canuckxxx the moen bar looks like it would work just fine, the flange does noy have to be really thick, it is rated to hold 500 lbs , by the time you cut it down to size needed it is very rigid

Like I said before, no noticeable issues, bike takes off and runs great, will have to run a couple tanks of gas out to check mpg, I will be sure to post more results when I have them, but I couldn't be happier with the way it runs and rides so far ....

well it seems to me ...that this was a dang good way to get the results he got ..one its a 2 joint system ..that in itself cut way down on leak possibilities ....it was quick and a no brainer as he said .....so to me I think its great ...sheesh hard for me to look down on it ...seems to cover about all the best issues good

Thanks Joe, I just decided that using the stock manifolds was more trouble than it was worth, the smooth mandrel bends and 1 less joint looked better to me, and was definitely better than anything I could fab on my own in the cave, I figured it was worth a shot, so far I couldn't be happier, I may have to do some jetting/tuning to get mpg where I want it, but I am over the major hurdle I think, different strokes for different folks, just wanted to contribute and hope I can help someone, all the info you guys have posted has definitely helped me, just trying to return the favor....