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Thanks for the response, that's a nice looking bike.

I've been on various forums over the years, this is by far one of the best and as I remember some really great people. Dan, you go such a great job on managing this forum, my hats off to ya. Richard

Haven't been on the forum for some time now. Was going to sell the old girl some time back but just couldn't get rid of her, but now it seems it is time to go because I just can't ride any more. Anyway need some advice, She is an 83, with an 81 motor and trans, also have the 83 motor, and both...

I just read McGovern’s thread and man do I understand. In one of Clint Eastwood's movies he made a statement, “a man needs to know his limitations.” For the few years I have dealt with a knee replacement, two compressed disks and one ruptured from a fall. I just turned 69 and it is apparent my...

Red made some excellent points, I obviously wasn't able to compare my OEM springs with new, but the progressive springs made a very big difference in the handling, I also un 0 pounds of air in the front, but 45 in the rear. I primarily ride in the Sierra foothills with lots of interesting roads...

I replace both head gaskets about 4k miles ago. Had both heads surfaced, in my opinion that is the only way to get a perfect surface. Also after installation road for about a half hour, came home and re torqued the head bolts, I know that is extra work, but it insured the heads were torqued...

I would be up for it May or June depending on where.

One of the Cons is that the Harley guys won't like you because you will have a better bike than they do. Some parts are hard to come by, and a bit pricey, but that's motorcycles for you. Some of the aftermarket parts aren't the best so take the advice on parts from the guys on this forum that...

Lets assume you have all the air out, the brake lines are good, and there are no leaks. To my way of thinking the only thing it can be is the master cylinder bypassing the seal. Remember the bore in the master cylinder needs to be perfectly smooth for it to work properly.

You might consider a new master cylinder. I replaced mine several years ago and it did make a big difference. I know money can be tight, but brakes are too critical to not have working perfectly, or as close to as possible.

It is my guess that carb adjustment isn't going to fix the problem, nor will modifying the jets. If you are starving for fuel the first place I would look is the fuel pump, and then the float levels next. Since I haven't encountered that problem these are just guesses. The other thing I would...

Wow, 10 gauge wire from the battery, that will handle all the current the bike needs. Sounds like you have a really good setup there, good luck with your project.

I have a sign in my office (man cave) it says, "I'm not listening, so why are you still talking."

Top right is the trigger positive and bottom right is the trigger negative, when switch triggers relay power from fuse turns light on. Sometimes you will find relay with five pins, in those cases you have a normally closed side of the relay, meaning it is a complete circuit until the relay is...

I like the clock, nice addition.

Why on earth would they use twelve ga wire, I can understand it from the power source, but for the distance the wires are running 18 ga should be sufficient for most everything else except the charging circuit.

I just had to poke some fun at you joe, and you are right, sometimes you just need to work with what you have, been there done that.

I agree, using hydraulics (oil in cylinder) isn't a good idea, may create damage to rods or piston and rings. Using liquid wrench or some other penetrating oil may loosen up the gaskets. When I pulled mine I had to use a plastic mallet and tapped, (not hit hard) all the way around the head to...

That is a new one on me, leak down tests are normally done with assembled engine and pressurizing the cylinder then checking for air leaks past valves or rings. But I suppose that would work.

Do you have the ability to pressurize the cylinders? If so I would pressurize both cylinders and then use your rubber mallet to unseat the head. I would put two head bolts back in just enough to keep the head in place once it breaks free. I would not use a screwdriver to separate the head from...