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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
Maybe some day restore a '79 - now named "Freedom"
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<blockquote data-quote="pidjones" data-source="post: 213862" data-attributes="member: 3026"><p>Been wanting to try an experiment of using Ford TFI modules triggered by the points to handle the coil current and dwell. So, today I finished up the wiring (well, I need to make it neater). Preliminary testing was good as it fired right up when I switched from normal ignition to the TFIs. But, then I ran out of gas so further work will continue when I get a petcock kit to repair a weepy petcock.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, it all connects via the six-prong plug on the front of the wiring interface. Just unplug the connector, plug the male from the TFIs into the box and the female into the cable that goes to the coils. Then unplug the condensers from the double connector near them. That's it! if a module should crap out all I'll have to do is swap back (takes less than a minute). I've read about the modules being used on drag cars. The main thing to worry about is cooling, and feel that the 1/2" aluminum blocks that sandwich the aluminum shower door rail with Arctic Cool heat transfer paste should carry away heat pretty well. Still I plan to scan them with an IR thermometer as soon as I can stress them. I see that I also need to re-route some of the cables going into the front of the interface. More PO fun!</p><p></p><p>The new white plugs go to the TFIs (yellow wire to the 1&2 Right coil, Blue to 3 & 4 Left coil). Red wires power the units from the old coil power feed that still jumpers to the coils and black leads to ground. Ballast resistor is jumpered in the plug as the TFI limits coil current to safe levels.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19202[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19203[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]19204[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pidjones, post: 213862, member: 3026"] Been wanting to try an experiment of using Ford TFI modules triggered by the points to handle the coil current and dwell. So, today I finished up the wiring (well, I need to make it neater). Preliminary testing was good as it fired right up when I switched from normal ignition to the TFIs. But, then I ran out of gas so further work will continue when I get a petcock kit to repair a weepy petcock. Anyway, it all connects via the six-prong plug on the front of the wiring interface. Just unplug the connector, plug the male from the TFIs into the box and the female into the cable that goes to the coils. Then unplug the condensers from the double connector near them. That's it! if a module should crap out all I'll have to do is swap back (takes less than a minute). I've read about the modules being used on drag cars. The main thing to worry about is cooling, and feel that the 1/2" aluminum blocks that sandwich the aluminum shower door rail with Arctic Cool heat transfer paste should carry away heat pretty well. Still I plan to scan them with an IR thermometer as soon as I can stress them. I see that I also need to re-route some of the cables going into the front of the interface. More PO fun! The new white plugs go to the TFIs (yellow wire to the 1&2 Right coil, Blue to 3 & 4 Left coil). Red wires power the units from the old coil power feed that still jumpers to the coils and black leads to ground. Ballast resistor is jumpered in the plug as the TFI limits coil current to safe levels. [ATTACH type="full" alt="DSC07862.JPG"]19202._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="TFIs connected.jpg"]19203._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="TFI setup.jpg"]19204._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Restorations
Maybe some day restore a '79 - now named "Freedom"
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