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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
My SCC adventure
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<blockquote data-quote="cmyoch" data-source="post: 195398" data-attributes="member: 5157"><p>I agree, on my other bikes, the vent tubes/overflows are external and drain outside the bike, not into the manifold. To me, that is a poor design but regardless, we have to work with it. </p><p></p><p>I dug out an old plastic mower tank that I never threw away. I will clean it out and try a gravity feed. I will tell you that yesterday was the first time the bike ran and idled nicely. This was while the fuel flow was shut off. It basically ran with what fuel was in the bowl. The needle assembly is one I've never seen before, it's one combined unit. It is brand new in the kit. I read that you raise and lower the float height by adding washers (thin washers) to the float. The float itself is plastic so there's not a metal tang to bend to raise and lower fuel level. </p><p></p><p>Since my mechanical pump is not original, could it be just powerful enough to push fuel past the needle in short bursts? I'm wondering if adding a filter or something in the input line to slow down the pressure could help?</p><p></p><p>Once I fix this, I think I'll have a strong running bike again!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cmyoch, post: 195398, member: 5157"] I agree, on my other bikes, the vent tubes/overflows are external and drain outside the bike, not into the manifold. To me, that is a poor design but regardless, we have to work with it. I dug out an old plastic mower tank that I never threw away. I will clean it out and try a gravity feed. I will tell you that yesterday was the first time the bike ran and idled nicely. This was while the fuel flow was shut off. It basically ran with what fuel was in the bowl. The needle assembly is one I've never seen before, it's one combined unit. It is brand new in the kit. I read that you raise and lower the float height by adding washers (thin washers) to the float. The float itself is plastic so there's not a metal tang to bend to raise and lower fuel level. Since my mechanical pump is not original, could it be just powerful enough to push fuel past the needle in short bursts? I'm wondering if adding a filter or something in the input line to slow down the pressure could help? Once I fix this, I think I'll have a strong running bike again! [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
My SCC adventure
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