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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts
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<blockquote data-quote="chuck c" data-source="post: 134035" data-attributes="member: 2907"><p>Just like this:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]10162[/ATTACH]</p><p>Tossing the OEM intake horns gets rid of that obnoxious 7* angle and widens the centerline between the runners by 30mm. That makes enough room for the big chunky PVC parts and allows 90s and 45s to work. 2 of the 45s and 2 sides of the cross still need to be trimmed a bit but there's still plenty of plastic to do the job. But now seeing this chunky looking thing I'm thinking I might declare victory on PVC and leave this for someone else to do. With this info it shouldn't be hard to follow. This does put the PVC much closer to the heat of the head but the flow may keep it cool enough. The Mikuni intake adapters run about $22 apiece and the PVC parts another $15. Really close to my $100 target.</p><p></p><p>As I already bought $50 worth of parts, I'll make mine in copper. That should put my final price at close to $150. The intake adapters will be different bores for PVC and copper. I will try to find Mikuni parts for both and give their part numbers.</p><p></p><p>There's one more advantage to this layout. <strong>The runners are exactly the same total length.</strong> With some of those copper layouts I posted I was worried the right and left sides would fight each other pulling back and forth through a single 1" tube from the tee in the center to where they split to go to the cylinders. It might be nothing but it's definitely not a smooth flow in that area. When one side draws the direction of gas at the tee might actually briefly reverse the flow in the other side. That means its next charge will be less dense. It might only happen at a certain resonant RPM. The cross eliminates that and allows the flow to switch between runners smoothly and make a one-way trip.</p><p></p><p>I will still need to make and fit a flange to the copper but I don't forsee and problems with that. :hihihi:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="chuck c, post: 134035, member: 2907"] Just like this: [ATTACH type="full" alt="mikuni1.JPG"]10162._xfImport[/ATTACH] Tossing the OEM intake horns gets rid of that obnoxious 7* angle and widens the centerline between the runners by 30mm. That makes enough room for the big chunky PVC parts and allows 90s and 45s to work. 2 of the 45s and 2 sides of the cross still need to be trimmed a bit but there's still plenty of plastic to do the job. But now seeing this chunky looking thing I'm thinking I might declare victory on PVC and leave this for someone else to do. With this info it shouldn't be hard to follow. This does put the PVC much closer to the heat of the head but the flow may keep it cool enough. The Mikuni intake adapters run about $22 apiece and the PVC parts another $15. Really close to my $100 target. As I already bought $50 worth of parts, I'll make mine in copper. That should put my final price at close to $150. The intake adapters will be different bores for PVC and copper. I will try to find Mikuni parts for both and give their part numbers. There's one more advantage to this layout. [b]The runners are exactly the same total length.[/b] With some of those copper layouts I posted I was worried the right and left sides would fight each other pulling back and forth through a single 1" tube from the tee in the center to where they split to go to the cylinders. It might be nothing but it's definitely not a smooth flow in that area. When one side draws the direction of gas at the tee might actually briefly reverse the flow in the other side. That means its next charge will be less dense. It might only happen at a certain resonant RPM. The cross eliminates that and allows the flow to switch between runners smoothly and make a one-way trip. I will still need to make and fit a flange to the copper but I don't forsee and problems with that. :hihihi: [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts
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