cold starting - won't fire initially but once warm starts fine wtf?

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chrisbags

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Greetings wingnuts -

Maxine has begun doing something I've never seen with her before. The battery is fully charged (new), the charging system is working fine, I have no additional lights or accessories installed - but: When I go to start her the first time - when she's 'cold' she isn't firing. To the point I have to use a shot of starting fluid. Once she fires, she will start just fine from there. I'm puzzled. I do shut the petcock to 'off' when I go to shut her down, and I don't run the gas out of the carbs, I just like to shut the fuel off before I shut off the bike.

Anyone seen this before? (What am I saying y'all have seen all of it between you) - I was thinking maybe it was coils or plugs - but she starts totally fine once she's started once.

Thanks all. Happy Tuesday.
 
Perhaps the fuel is leaking out of the bowls, and are empty on the first start of the day?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131272#p131272:2pbqv7ev said:
slabghost » Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:54 am[/url]":2pbqv7ev]
Sounds like the choke isn't working.
My first thought too.
These engines are very cold blooded and need choke usually.
Does it idle ok once warmed up a bit?
If so then that would imply the idle circuits are clear.
 
If I remember right the choke is spring loaded so if the choke plates stick the cable will still pull but the plates wont close or close fully, It is something to look at, Second the accelerator pump also helps starting with a shot of fuel but I don't think it would prevent it from starting but maybe make it more difficult, If your ambitious you can pull the manifolds and work the throttle to see if they are squirting, pulling the slides will also work but may require more effort.
 
Thanks gents! It does idle fine once running it settles down and idles between 800 and 1200 I'd say on the tach. I turned the idle screw to increase the idle the other day and it started much more easily. Would a good carb cleaning help maybe? Is there a carb cleaner I should try? I have done quite a lot with the old girl but getting inside the engine or carbs is where I start to feel that impending sense of doom that I'm about to kill my bike. I'm sure it's not brain surgery but it's that first step thats a doozy.
 
I'd hit all the choke linkage with some cleaner. It sounds like your ignition and internal carbs are OK, but maybe the choke shafts are sticking. As stated before, they are spring-loaded, so even with the choke cable pulled, the plates might not be closing.
 
I would also check your plug gaps. As they wear the gaps increase and can be a problem when starting ( low speed revolutions) but not so when running. I find that the Rats Nest goes first bang with a twist of throttle ( accelerator pump) while cranking. Choke seems to create more problems and is harder starting when used.
 
Thank ye Joe - I'll probably replace the plugs too - gotta pull em and check first but I'm expecting to do so. Thanks to CGW's awesome reference section I know what kind I need and what and how to gap 'em as well. Love this place!
 
Thanks boys! I swapped out the plugs and cleaned up the choke assembly and while I am not sure which one did it she fires in less than a second from dead cold. Idling much better too. Plugs were not horrible but a little nasty.

Seems to be sorted, but I'm gonna run the ATF thru it anyway since I haven't cleaned the carbs - thanks again!!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131376#p131376:322wlyhd said:
dan filipi » Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:13 am[/url]":322wlyhd]
I had a set of Irridium plugs that shorted out down inside.
They are good plugs but not immune to carbon tracking, happens to all of them.
Glad it was an easy fix after all.

I love irridium plugs but as the GW is so accessable I wouldn't waste the money and just change conventional plugs more frequently :yes:
 

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