Why no cranky?

Plenty of juice. All connections clean and tight. In neutral. Relay clicks and so does the starter. It will not crank. I have had this happen a few times but after a while of trying it would spin. Has the starter just failed? I can only think of one more thing to check- hydrolocked with gas from my freshly cleaned carb leaking somehow. I will pull the plugs to see if it will spin without them. If I get a facefull of gasoline, I know what's wrong.

My first thought was hyrolocked.

Be sure your kill switch is on before you cranky or you might get flames,..Mine did that a couple times, just pulled the plugs and spun it, plugs back in and fired right up, a new battery seemed to solve that.

Have read about the problem, :read: but so far seemed to have been fortunate. :yes:

Try tapping :builder: on the starter while hitting the start button. This will give you an idea of whether or not the brushes are iffy. If it cranks/starts after a few love taps, the brushes are worn, or there is some other issue inside the starter.

Check the voltage at the starter using the frame as a ground, this will tell you if you are getting full battery volts to the starter. If you are getting full battery voltage to the starter and it doesn't spin you have a problem with the starter. If you aren't getting full voltage, you may have a solenoid going bad, or poor connections somewhere.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172497#p172497:d23zlt5a said:

zman » Wed Apr 27, 2016 10:00 pm[/url]":d23zlt5a]
Be sure your kill switch is on before you cranky or you might get flames.

Click to expand...

:shock: Thanks for this important safety tip. Burning down the garage with a Goldwing flamethrower would make me sad.

I donno guys. Do you think it was hydrolock?
[video]https://youtu.be/J5c6wbGGDis[/video]

Oops, yeah :blush:

Just a little.

After putting the plugs back in it fired right up. The auto choke worked and brought it down to the right area but it's not smooth. I need to mess with it a bit once it's good and warm. If I can fix the electric fan and it doesn't rain all day tomorrow, I might just take it out to the road.

:laptop: note to self: CLOSE THE FUEL PETCOCK, fool!

I didn't think this would be possible as the carb is the highest spot in the system AND the anti-diesel fuel cutoff should, well, cut it off. If the float wasn't set correctly or the valve didn't work would it not shut off flow, overfill the bowl, and get through the carb somehow?

Mine hyrolocked when I had it on the 1100 motor also.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172670#p172670:2472bnl9 said:

brianinpa » Sat Apr 30, 2016 8:57 pm[/url]":2472bnl9]
Mine hyrolocked when I had it on the 1100 motor also.

Click to expand...

Did you find the cause?

Nope. I rebuilt the carb, so I just assumed it was a sticky float... especially after I opened the carb up and found out just how dirty it was.

On the side stand these motors are leaned over much more than any car or truck motor.Lowering the float a bit is probably a very good idea.

yep......o, my carb .....ive got the float lower than suppose to.....if the float is to close close to the top..it will leak ......as float valve wont shut off completely......has to be lowered to for sure cut gss flow.....discount to this is carb may run a bit low in fuel supply.....this only bothers me if i really try ti wine thr bike out in rpm ...and keep it going like that through all gears ....about third gear it will start running out of gas....thruth is ...if you shift right it has plenty of gas and actually is faster ...shifting at around approaching 8000 instead of going past it as it will do either...

i have no hydtolock going on my bike.....also if dial in is to heavy on gas side hydto locking is always primed to happen with rich running to start with......also lower float level dose lean ovrr all charge ....and is good way to lean things ....so its all a dance of adjusting and knowing how your carb acts......

i will say once you get closer to right ....the whole bike is le a sweet spot.....

Get a carb kit and Get someone to rebuild and clean it for you. I have been running the 34-3 for almost 3 years,,,(and it is a cheap import) never had a problem with hydro-lock...

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172690#p172690:1ylnho0n said:

dkl » Sun May 01, 2016 9:51 am[/url]":1ylnho0n]
Get a carb kit and Get someone to rebuild and clean it for you. I have been running the 34-3 for almost 3 years,,,(and it is a cheap import) never had a problem with hydro-lock...

Click to expand...

I just did a clean and rebuild, see the separate thread. I think all I need now are to set the float correctly and dial in the idle.

Now that I've nearly got a good manifold and the carb almost dialed in, I'm thinking of fabbing a custom air cleaner housing. I think I want one that will have ducts up to the vents in the fairing, or maybe just on one side. I want to kill the noise from the current setup and get a shape that fits under the faux tank, and has a port and flapper valve to allow a duct to the header for warm air intake in cold weather. It's just in the idea stage now.

It was hydrolocked with fuel. My carb is dumping it. I think my float needs to be adjusted. I also need to change the oil because it must have gotten some gas in it.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5c6wbGGDis[/video]