1985 Limited Edition 2022 Work Period

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So far, hemostats have been enough for debugging our Spyder, but just have 9k miles on her so far. I did have to replace the rear tire already. Had a General Altimax RT43 215-60R 15 mounted by a local shop that does Spyders along with bikes and quads. Pulled and reinstalled the wheel myself. NOT as easy as a GL1800! But, made worse by the hitch mount that has to be removed to get to the axle.

Making minimal progress on the Triumph right now (has to be finished before the '75 GL1000 can get in the garage, so GoldWing related). Got it running pretty well, but gushes oil from rocker vovers, head, cylinder base. So, pulled that all off and fixing things like stripped completely studs just poked back in the hole and dowels smashed over. Waiting for parts, now.

Weather and circumstances have precluded riding the Hunley. Have to get her out soon.
 
Those critters are in places I wasn't aware of. Took a few grasshoppers out yesterday.

Took out a Bluejay in Ontario just outside Ottawa. It bounced off a canoe on the car in front of me, hit the road then I hit it. Thought I'd just finished it off, and I did, but it got lodged in the right rad air intake. Found it dead at the next stop. Threw it in the bushes to recycle.
 
The Spyder is finished. Only broke one bolt in the cleaning process, and have thoughts on what I will do - drill and easy out. BRP uses a good lock tite product, but it is a PITA when removing bolts. Have come to the realization that once you get the bolt moving, do not stop, or the lock tite product heats up and the bolt will not turn again until it cools down.

Parts for the bargain basement engine put back together project are coming in. Keeping it to o-rings, oil seals and such. Have found that using non-OEM o-rings and such can be less than optimal because of size. Did an oil/filter change on the Spyder and compared the OEM o-ring set to an off shore o-ring kit. Not a lot of difference, but the majority of the off shore o-rings were slightly undersized, if you can call 0.01 to 0.04 mm undersized.

Remembered a comment regarding balancing the cylinder banks of the FI models and that you should connect the vacuum gauges to each cylinder as this may indicate air leaks when not all four cylinders are the same. This is also why I have new OEM injector holder o-rings for the install of the 1200 carcass engine.

Parts that came in are:

Injector holder o-rings
Final drive shaft oil seal (maintenance)
Crank shaft oil seal
FD oil fill cap o-ring (maintenance)

Have the camshaft oil seals on order.

Checked the piston ring end gap yesterday. Came in at 0.60 mm. Clean up with the hone and all should be good. These rings are from a 2000 Chevy Tracker 1.6 litre 0.5 mm oversize - $38.60 CDN, good deal. Ring sizes are 1.2/1.2/2.5 mm.
 
New battery and battery tender came in as well. LifePo4 lithium-ion battery. Very surprised at weight. Terminal posts are opposite so new cables needed, not a big issue. Loosing the weight from the AGM battery should make the old girl get up and scoot that much better. Thinking I'll definitely feel the difference in weight!😎😂(y)
 
Honed the cylinders yesterday. There was water corrosion on numbers 2 and 4 cylinders. Cleaned up best I could and smoothed out with the hone. Have seen pics on this and other forums of cylinders that are in worse shape and are still used. If I had not had to disassemble the engine for transport, probably would not have taken apart - ignorance is bliss. New rings and we'll see what happens.

Numbers 1 and 3 cylinders cleaned up nicely.

Will start assembly, engine gasket set not required yet.
 
Did a bit more honing of number 4. Getting better.

Engine gasket set came in today. Have started to install parts in the engine cases. Have the right side almost complete. Should have engine cases together in a couple of days, no rush.

Looking at cylinder bore gauges. Have the type that you put in, tighten up, remove and measure with a micrometer. Works not too bad but want to try a different style of bore gauge.
 
Have the engine cases ready to mate. Going to go through all the bins of items from the carcass bike that I disassembled in Ontario to make sure I have all the internals in.

Picked up a new 3/8 inch drive torque wrench, WERA, 15 to 73 ft/lbs:
3C3A12C5-EC38-4B1B-ABA0-DFA49F0A4E47.jpeg
A significant upgrade in quality and price, but I use it all the time.
 
Have been working on the engine parts/pieces, ordered up some oil seals, and o-rings.

Picked up a stethoscope to investigate noises. Can say that the ticking noise I am hearing is coming from the left head, primarily #2 cylinder. Had a look at the left head from the 1200 carcass engine and the head valve seats are not too bad. Cheapest and easiest fix would be to replace the left head only. If all goes well from the change, leave alone and ride it like I stole it. Thinking abut this one.

Have an intermittent FUEL SYSTEM fault. Comes and goes, worse electrical issue(s) to investigate. I did notice that when the FUEL SYSTEM light would come on, the engine would hesitate, almost misfire. Only change I did since I put the engine together is I changed out the injectors. Will be going back to the original ones.

Checked the calibration of the ECU water temp sensor - Tw, last night. In spec so I may change the one on the engine out. Will check the calibration of the one in the bike.
 
I would seriously consider finding replacement cylinders for the corroded side and honing those.
 
Motörhead said:
I would seriously consider finding replacement cylinders for the corroded side and honing those.
Click to expand...
Have a couple of options. Replace left cylinder head. Change a couple of sensors, and keep the engine in the frame. Like the way the shift drum works.

Second option would be to remove the engine, split the cases, getting good at this. Use the new rings in this engine. Change the shift drum and gearing. Put back together, install. Could change the internals such as the crank and pistons. Would replace the left cylinder head regardless.

Spent a lot of time and money on the one in the bike such as vapour blasting the cases and ancillaries, and using CERAKOTE as a protectant, new parts and pieces as well.

Change up the existing engine with some new parts/pieces then look for a new left case.

Something to consider, good suggestion.
 
Have found an engine case on eBay out of Spokane WA. Have dealt with them before. Postage is a killer. It has an air chamber I would like as well with a TPS attached - bonus. The left side engine case is in good shape, no broken bits and the cylinders look good. This would definitely make life a lot easier. Probably get within the week.

It still would not look as nice as the engine that is in. Thinking about it.
 
Went back to my other thread, GL1200 Engine Rebuild - Part 5 - Post Getting To The Road and checked the hydraulic lash adjuster shim. The only hydraulic lifter that I changed was #2 intake, but when I did - went to no shim, there was no compression. Went back to the factory shim of one, compression and all seemed to be well.

I had these heads refurbished 2018 IIRC. Wondering if the shop was a bit too aggressive on the valves? The Honda service manual mentions that the valves cannot be ground. If this is the case, may need new valves for the left head and this will correct the ticking issue.

I will be installing the 1200 carcass left cylinder head at this point.
 
Looked into it, GL cases should be a matched set due to align boring on the mains. When I said check into cylinders I was thinking removable cylinders my bad. Shows my inexperience with GLs.
 
Motörhead said:
Looked into it, GL cases should be a matched set due to align boring on the mains. When I said check into cylinders I was thinking removable cylinders my bad. Shows my inexperience with GLs.
Click to expand...
Using one side or the other should not be an issue. The crank and con rods are housed in the right engine case, no interaction with the left engine case. The transmission uses bearings with locating half rings that locate and keep the transmission main shaft in place. These and the crank end bearing are the only bearings that use both halves. Since these engine case were pumped out on an assembly line should be no issue(s).
 
Every topic I've read on the web concerning rust in GL1200 bores points to left side, being on the sidestand, sparingly run if at all in the winter, for decades, thus the temperature and humidity cycles creates condensation puddling in the left bank. Year after year, winter after winter.
I haven't received my 36k mile 1986 yet but am assuming the same problem exist. With the absence of overbore pistons I'm sending an email out to this Nikasil replating company inquiring about repairing rust damage to a stock bore. The bonus would be no more bare cast iron to rust again!
https://www.usnicom.com/Edit: holy crap it's expensive!
 
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On a GL1000, I've scraped rust off 1&3 cylinders with a razor blade due to that side being immersed for what appeared to be an extended time with exhaust valves open. The cylinders are now better than 2&4, which are also fine. Many valves and seats were pitted, however.
 
Has anyone ever had LA Sleeve renew their engine?
https://www.lasleeve.com/tech/re-sleeve-your-cylinderEdit: wondering if there's a 76mm piston from a 2 valve Honda with same or close to same compression height on the pin bore (compression height is the pin centerline to crown dimension) If not exact a larger pin can be used to achieve it by offset boring the piston and connecting rod.
Wall thickness is a concern of course and will have to be accounted for. I went slightly under that spec with this 2mm overbore but it runs fine and the added torque is great.


Message sent to LA Sleeve:
I'm a new member of a classic Honda GL1200 Gold Wing forum and found there's a common problem with these engines having left side cylinder corrosion due to previous owners leaving this boxer four garaged on the sidestand through the winter months without spraying storage oil. Having been built in the 1980's that's a lot of seasons! Lately this model has become popular with riders looking for a restomod bobber base or as a touring bike addition. Honda has discontinued oversized pistons and rings for this model. What would be an estimated cost for resleeving the cylinders back to stock? This may prove to become very popular among GL1200 owners and that of earlier GL1000 and GL1100 versions.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Gold_Wing
 
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