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I got a little time in the shop today. I found one stud in my collection of metric stuff and I made another stud from a bolt.

IMG_20160804_133100584.jpg


For reference these studs are M8, 1.25 thread. Original stud is 27mm. New ones are 34mm.

IMG_20160804_133227149.jpg


Then I wallered (great word,DKL!) out the slide tees with a hole saw.

IMG_20160804_124747518.jpg
 
I'm still gathering up the bits I need.

DKL, do you happen to have a picture of your throttle cable arrangement as it attaches to the carb? I'm going to get a brass barrel stop with a set screw...
h-t10102.031

h-t10102.031


...but was thinking about the mount for the cable housing. I imagine an arrangement similar to a lawn mower would work and allow for adjustment...

97ae2962a510759526ce3dfb2149aac1

97ae2962a510759526ce3dfb2149aac1

 
This is what I used: a T-Bracket cut to fit, and a eye bolt. Works well for me, but not written in stone that this is the only way... "Waller" that around in ur head for a while. LOL
 

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A little progress today.

I traced out the carb gasket onto the flange and cut it out.

IMG 20160806 161633840

IMG 20160806 161633840


IMG 20160806 163201712

IMG 20160806 163201712


I chamfered the edges of all the pipe ends

IMG 20160806 163816891

IMG 20160806 163816891


I had to trim 1cm off each of the 22.5° elbows to get the assembly shortened up enough to fit the bike.

IMG 20160806 184923896

IMG 20160806 184923896


Assembly went just as DKL said, put it on the bike and it will align itself.

IMG 20160806 182722764 HDR

IMG 20160806 182722764 HDR


IMG 20160806 182847537

IMG 20160806 182847537


Marked all the fittings and removed the assembly from the bike and began gluing everything together. I used Seal-All as it is made to resist gasoline (and I couldn't find my pvc cement). Actually, the Seal-All gives you a little more time to adjust joints before setting solid. And the slide tees have a little more wiggle room in them so a little thicker layer of cement was required and it takes a few hours to fully cure so I called it a night and will go back at it tomorrow morning.

IMG 20160806 191103551

IMG 20160806 191103551

 
Thanks Joe. So far so good.

I found cable barrel ends at the auto supply. This carb takes 5/16". Dorman part #03336 is a pack of 6, 2 each of 3 sizes, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8, all for $2.99.
 
Seal All, I do not know if it will hold up, keep an eye on it... Did you dry fit with Carb in place, before gluing it up ???? Be sure accelerator pump linkage does not hit flange, if it does grind a little off Flange. Looking Good, so far !!!!
 
Yeah, I don't think you can have a flange more than about 3/16" or 4mm thick with the stock studs. A metal flange doesn't need to be more than that but pvc should be thicker if possible. They are pressed in and there's no room to get a nut on a through bolt. It's a bit of a pickle. The following are only suggestions, I have not tried any of them!

Options:
You can get/make a longer stud if you're comfortable with pulling the old ones and tapping the body, but it would require going to the next size up (8mm) since the holes in the carb are close to the same diameter as the 6mm stud. Remember that metal is pretty soft and probably doesn't have the strength for very much force. It might be enough but it would be possible to tear the threads out if you crank on it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=13mcz0j

Replace the stud with a threaded insert so you can use screws. The inserts are cheap but the installation tools can be a bit expensive for just 2 holes. If you can borrow the tool it's a good option. The nice thing about this is it will last forever. you can run the screws in and out a hundred times and the threads won't wear out. Here's a kit for $27. Confirm this is the right size and will work before you buy it!
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

Least expensive: remove material from the back side of the flange. It's easier to put it in a lathe and cut the whole thing thinner, but it might weaken it too much, your call. It depends on how much needs to come off.

As dkl noted, you will probably have to cut away some of the flange to clear the linkage and the carb itself. Think about where and how you'll anchor the throttle cable. You might want to use a spot on the flange for that.
 
I see now my entire post was obsolete before I hit "submit"! You must have gotten a real Solex. Mine is a copy and the studs were pressed in. My post might still be useful to someone else that has that type.
 
fivestring":3mivb1el said:
A little progress today.

I traced out the carb gasket onto the flange and cut it out.

IMG 20160806 161633840

IMG 20160806 161633840


IMG 20160806 163201712

IMG 20160806 163201712


I chamfered the edges of all the pipe ends

IMG 20160806 163816891

IMG 20160806 163816891


I had to trim 1cm off each of the 22.5° elbows to get the assembly shortened up enough to fit the bike.

IMG 20160806 184923896

IMG 20160806 184923896


Assembly went just as DKL said, put it on the bike and it will align itself.

IMG 20160806 182722764 HDR

IMG 20160806 182722764 HDR


IMG 20160806 182847537

IMG 20160806 182847537


Marked all the fittings and removed the assembly from the bike and began gluing everything together. I used Seal-All as it is made to resist gasoline (and I couldn't find my pvc cement). Actually, the Seal-All gives you a little more time to adjust joints before setting solid. And the slide tees have a little more wiggle room in them so a little thicker layer of cement was required and it takes a few hours to fully cure so I called it a night and will go back at it tomorrow morning.

IMG 20160806 191103551

IMG 20160806 191103551

Click to expand...
I used seal-all too

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
To run the throttle cable, I drilled a hole in the heat shield and mounted a piece of angled steel to hold the cable with the stock nuts.

IMG 20160807 104612825

IMG 20160807 104612825


IMG 20160807 114624697

IMG 20160807 114624697


I get a straight pull to full throttle easily.

I noticed the carb rocked slightly when rolling the throttle. So I added a metal brace on the back side. It is very solid now.

IMG 20160807 134118245

IMG 20160807 134118245


I wanted to see what would happen with the carb right out of the box. I didn't check the idle screw or mixture screw for adjustment.

After hooking up the air cutoff solenoid and electric choke to switched 12v, running a ground wire to the carb and hooking up the fuel and vacuum, I was ready for a start up. I ran the starter with the kill switch off to get the carb full of gas. When I saw the accelerator pump shooting a stream of gas in the throat, I turned the kill switch on and touched the starter and it instantly was idling at around 1500 rpms!

It revs pretty well. I tried turning down the idle. I could turn the idle screw all the way in and get it down to around 1150. I played with the mixture screw some but it didn't seem to be making a huge difference except I got it to decel quicker which would tell me it isn't running lean. I noticed the exhaust smell was rich.

I didn't check plugs yet or take it down off the lift for a spin as I have a few other things to finish up first. I will paint the intake with krylon once everything is dialed in.
 
DKL, I did have to sand down one side of the flange to clear the pump linkage. And I did what you said, assembled everything on the bike, marked everything then glued it all up.
 

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