- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,409
- Reaction score
- 246
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
I talked with Louie (glwrench here) this morning.
He is a Goldwing only mechanic for most of his life and has the dealer repair manuals and very knowledgeable.
I've been plagued with over rich running for a very long time, since I bought this bike.
I have the carbs out and going through them cleaning and checking float heights and he gave me a neat tip for checking the float adjustment.
Hook the rack up to gas.
With one bowl removed at a time, carefully lift the float until the gas stops flowing.
Bottom of the float should measure 15.5 mm to the carb deck.
I've tried this on 2 so far and it works well. One float was one mm off.
This method confirms where the gas actually turns off instead of relying on the generic hit and miss method of just touching the center pin because that tells us nothing of when the gas actually turns off.
I see this method working well with aftermarket needles and seats since as jpwinger found, the center pin can be a different length on various sources of needles.
Louie confirmed this.
I've also found that gas will seep out between the bowl and carb housing at this spec of 15.5 mm and when removing the bowl the gas level in the bowl is 8-9 mm below top of the bowl. Not a couple mm like I thought and have read.
My findings are "the gas level should be just below top of the bowl when removed" is NOT correct since evidently the floats themselves displace a good amount of gas making the gas level higher when assembled.
He is a Goldwing only mechanic for most of his life and has the dealer repair manuals and very knowledgeable.
I've been plagued with over rich running for a very long time, since I bought this bike.
I have the carbs out and going through them cleaning and checking float heights and he gave me a neat tip for checking the float adjustment.
Hook the rack up to gas.
With one bowl removed at a time, carefully lift the float until the gas stops flowing.
Bottom of the float should measure 15.5 mm to the carb deck.
I've tried this on 2 so far and it works well. One float was one mm off.
This method confirms where the gas actually turns off instead of relying on the generic hit and miss method of just touching the center pin because that tells us nothing of when the gas actually turns off.
I see this method working well with aftermarket needles and seats since as jpwinger found, the center pin can be a different length on various sources of needles.
Louie confirmed this.
I've also found that gas will seep out between the bowl and carb housing at this spec of 15.5 mm and when removing the bowl the gas level in the bowl is 8-9 mm below top of the bowl. Not a couple mm like I thought and have read.
My findings are "the gas level should be just below top of the bowl when removed" is NOT correct since evidently the floats themselves displace a good amount of gas making the gas level higher when assembled.
opcorn: Glad she's runnin' good! :clapping:
