canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

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Okay I stand corrected 3... Nice bike even for a single with 2 exhaust pipes :good:
 
wow it idles as good as mine ...sheesh i think better ... nice brian ... i must praise shovelking as this was one great way to go ... and i praeise us all for the 1 to 2 transition piece ...seems to me this really kick the single carb to its own level and second to nothing
 
You are so right Joe. Classic Goldwing is like a single carb "think tank". So many out of the box solutions to making it better and better.

Now that I have the 2 into 1 adapter on there I am going to close off the coolant through the plenum and try running it cold. I'm thinking the adapter atomizes the fuel better...might not need heat.

Brian
 
Update: when I shot that video the idle was 1000 RPMs but I didn't mention that I have just adjusted it down from 1100 RPMs. Anyways, I went out for a ride through city streets this morning and it would die when coming to a stop before it was completely warmed up. It would start right up again. I pulled into a parking lot and let it idle which it did but if I revved it up and closed the throttle it would drop down below 1000 rpm and then take a second or two to settle back to smooth idle. So I continued on being careful to close the throttle more slowly (I hate that kind of a distraction when I'm riding). It was only after it was completely warmed up that the idle issue went away.

When I got home I turned the idle up to 1100. Would have liked to play with the idle mixture screw but with the adapter in there that screw is very hard to get to. Maybe one of those 90 degree screwdrivers would work.

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Brian
 
Flex or offset screwdrivers can help a lot. There are also small ratcheting bit drivers that may work. I could be wrong but to me it sounds like idle circuit is lean. Quick test on that would be to use a rag to cover some of the air filter as it's warming to see if idle returns more easily. If blocking some of the air fixes it that indicates to me it is lean. If it gets worse then it's not getting enough air or is rich.
 
Went out again and let it warm up until the fan came on. Adjusted the idle speed down to 1000 again. Blipped throttle and idle dropped, hesitated before going to smooth idle. Then turned idle screw up until I could just hear RPMs increase...maybe 1025. Seemed like something changed then, idle sounded freer maybe. Blipped the throttle and it went back to idle better, dropped to just above and then settled down to idle speed.

I'm thinking that maybe the throttle was completely closed so just not enough air flow. Which makes me think of Dan's idea of drilling small hole in throttle plate.

Will have to see how it works when only partly warm.

Brian
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=126590#p126590:3tsjjdtd said:
slabghost » Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:04 pm[/url]":3tsjjdtd]
Flex or offset screwdrivers can help a lot. There are also small ratcheting bit drivers that may work. I could be wrong but to me it sounds like idle circuit is lean. Quick test on that would be to use a rag to cover some of the air filter as it's warming to see if idle returns more easily. If blocking some of the air fixes it that indicates to me it is lean. If it gets worse then it's not getting enough air or is rich.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. I guess I was typing my next post when your comment came through.

I did manage to adjust the idle mix screw by reaching in with a screwdriver bit and then turning with a 1/4" wrench from above. Didn't seem to make much difference though. So then I just turned up the idle slightly.

Brian
 
now brian it seems you got to get into serious jetting .....and figure out what the carb is doing before moves ....seems to me ..you run the bike in the idle circuit only ... part throttle round town type riding and then check plugs and see what there doing .. being able to adjust mix and idle speed screw is a must ....the idle has fix air going to it ...and the idle gas jet is it for adjusting .....drilling a hole in the throttle plate away from gas siphoning ..is just like jetting ...meaning there a perfect size hole for every set up .... so i had the carb on and off hooch several times trying to get the right size hole in throttle plate with the .45 gas jet i had in the carb ....when things got right it seemed everything just past idle was perfect ... seems to me once here with idle circuit right it easier to deal with the rest of the jetting ... seems like on hooch i did everything backwards but learned a lot doing it ....

plus i would exhaust all the attempts i could with idle jet and screw twisting to be sure lack of air is totally evident before going to drilling plate .... :builder:

on webers dft it is said that one turn out on idle mix screw is perfect ...anything less than one turn .. idle jet should be a step smaller ... anything above 2 turns idle jet should be bigger ...

idle speed setting is suppose to be no more than 2 turns once screw touches linkage ... this is for cars ...just so you know for base line knowing ... :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=126826#p126826:l1vni6z8 said:
joedrum » Sun Jul 27, 2014 4:51 am[/url]":l1vni6z8]
hmmmm whats going on brian .... this bike seems to have its ups and downs ....check in buddy ....
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Joe, I am sorry I didn't respond to your previous post about jetting. The truth is I think I need to put some kilometres on this old beast with the little bit of summer we have left. I want to at least get a 300 to 400km ride in and check gas mileage. We have some great 100k/h roads around Calgary that are smooth and little traffic during the week that I love to cruise on.

Actually the bike has run pretty consistently ever since I added heat to the plenum. And I am using all the original jets that came with the carb. So, as far as the carb goes I haven't had to mess with it. I did buy a #55 idle jet, early on, and tried it but I couldn't get as good an idle as with the #50 so stuck with that. Adding the 2 to 1 adapter has made it run even better, once I stopped the air leaks, but still same jetting.

Bike has lots of low end torque and a pretty good top end rush. But I like to short shift most of the time so the torque is my friend there. Much better than OEM setup.

This last issue of quitting, when not fully warmed up, when throttle closed quickly, I think I have solved by turning the idle speed up slightly. I have been busy with other things so haven't ridden since that adjustment.

Brian
 
great to hear......seems the secondary mod you help me get into has really made huge carb attitude change ...quite the monster ...went for nice morning ride .... sure was fun ... my carb seems to come in with a bounce and no hiccups at all quite early in progression of throttle :thanks: for the thought of this mod
 
That mod was a drop in the bucket compared to what I have learned from you, Dan, Slabghost, EKV and the whole CGW team. I am just glad to contribute something here and there.

The single carb mod is a real winner in my opinion. Imagine replacing all those slides and diaphragms and float bowls and interconnecting passages for a common accelerator pump and then trying to synchronize the whole thing to work exactly the same for each cylinder. Like herding cats.

Brian
 
Tonight I took the carb off again with the idea of drilling a 1/16" hole in the primary throttle plate. Then I realized that I would have to unbolt the adapter from the bottom of the carb. I think that is where I got a big air leak when I first installed the adapter and it wasn't leaking now so I decided to leave it alone.

Then I checked how much the primary throttle plate was open at my idle setting by shining a flashlight into the bottom of the adapter with the garage lights off. I could see a definite sliver of light at the primary. But I could also see a very thin sliver on the secondary. So I adjusted the secondary throttle stop screw until the sliver of light disappeared.

I screwed the idle mix screw in till it stopped and then backed it out 1 1/2 turns. Put the whole thing back together, started it up and let it warm up. I noticed a difference as soon as I started it because, even cold, I could close the throttle and it would chug away at 400 - 500 rpm. Previously it would have died.

Once warm I found that the my throttle speed setting from before was too slow, 600rpm. Before I turned it up I played with the idle mix screw and found that a 1/8 turn in from my original 1 1/2 turns gave best, smoothest idle. Then I turned idle speed up to 1000rpm. Idles very smooth now, probably the smoothest it's ever idled for me.

Something to check next time you take your carb off is to make sure the secondary is closing completely.

Brian
 
Glad to see you have the idle circuit working correctly without having to resort to the butterfly mod( drilling a hole) :good:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=127053#p127053:1snustqy said:
Ansimp » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:37 pm[/url]":1snustqy]
Glad to see you have the idle circuit working correctly without having to resort to the butterfly mod( drilling a hole) :good:
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Thanks Ansimp, "idle circuit working correctly" is exactly how it finally acts. And it reacts to changes on the mix screw in a predictable way.

Brian
 
yep that sounds good....seems on the stock bikes there needs to be no hole needed .... great job brian ....yes this was great moves in the name of dialing in carb ....cant wait for ride report .... :mrgreen:
 

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