canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[joedrum]

one way or the other ..it cant leak

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK I went with a pressure test instead of the vacuum. I cut the valve out of a bicycle tube, gooped up the back side with silicone and mounted it on a plate that goes over the plenum. Good thing I am checking this because I found a big air leak at one of the head flanges which I fixed by resoldering. Found some pinhole leads at the plenum where the runners are soldered to the end cap. I didn't want to reheat this part in case some things shifted so I cleaned and put JB weld over the leaks...hope that holds.

vacuum leak test 6

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 19, 2014

JB weld cures way faster with heat so I put it on my space heater.

vacuum leak test 5

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 19, 2014

It's frustrating because I am anxious to see how it runs with this new manifold. :head bang: I told you guys that I suck at soldering. oh2:

Brian

 

[slabghost]

Looking real good. JB weld should hold fine.

 

[joedrum]

well this should work now ...

 

[canuckxxxx]

:beg:

 

[dan filipi]

I'm not real keen to using JB here since when I did this the bond wasn't good enough to maintain a seal for long.
May be good enough to get it fired up though.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Well, the JB weld seemed to be hard so I did the leak test again and decided that it was not leaking. So I put the manifold on the bike, hooked everything up and started it up. Idles real nice but the idea that the copper would conduct all kinds of heat to the plenum is wrong. :swoon: :doh: The runners are warm right at the head but quickly cool so that beyond the first elbow they are cool. The plenum is cold.

It is fairly cool here at about -5ºC so that probably contributes to the plenum being cold. Plus we know that a well dialed in carb doesn't need a warm plenum. It will be interesting to see how the bike runs on the road but I don't think that will be happening any time soon. When I snapped the throttle open quickly it hesitates which makes me think that it might bog. That could be due to the very small volume plenum. Maybe I will put the rest shelter and seat on and do some launches in the driveway to see if it bogs.

Anyways, please take a look at this video of it running. :moped:

Thanks for your indulgence
Brian
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBcF-mH ... tion=share

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBcF-mHGY0g&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share[/video]

 

[joedrum]

well the good thing is that the cool runners indicate no leaking...

 

[ekvh]

I do the wet bulb thermometer vs dry bulb thermometer every year with my 4th graders to show the importance of staying dry in this country in winter. In front of a low speed fan, it drops 22 degrees from evaporation. Not sure how much energy gasoline uses, but I am sure it also drops much. It would take a lot of heat to overcome it on a humid day. Some of the "icing" is gas and unless there's gobs of it I can't see it hurting much, but if it's humid and water condenses and is pulled into the chamber, that could present bigger problems.

 

[joedrum]

perfect gas charge is cold coming from good carb ...i think the thin walled stuff is the best to use as it changes fast and heat goes to cold ....the bogging is whole other issue ..this will be good test brian has 2 different set ups to compare here..should be good info gain here ... opcorn:

 

[dan filipi]

That's an exceptionally good idle right off which is a very good sign.
The acceleration sounds pretty good too.
I say give the man a brew :salute:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Thanks for the brew Dan...really hit the spot. :beer: :beer: :beer:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Got a bit of a break in the weather here, 6 degrees C. Streets are wet but no ice so I took the old beast for a spin around the block. Was able to wind it out a few times. It doesn't feel any different than with my other setup. Top end power still good, low RPM about the same. No hesitation or stumbles. Until it is full warmed up it has a tendency to quit when rolling to a stop but when warm it goes back to idle OK. :good:

I like this new setup. It is so simple and minimal; just those skinny copper runners and the plenum smaller than the 2 to 1 adapter. :Egyptian:

I am going to leave it on and do more testing in the spring. In the mean time I will get my grab bar manifold all back together. I will have to make new flange plates because my old ones are stuck on the copper manifold. Them I will do a leak test which I never did on the grab rail manifold. :builder:

BTW, the copper runners and plenum get quite warm after the bike is shut down.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Copper manifold

manifold on bike 4

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 20, 2014

 

[joedrum]

that great brian ...sounds good ... k:

 

[canuckxxxx]

It is surprising to me that such small runners work so well. :shock: And Dan used 1" runners on his 1200, although a more direct path from plenum to head. When I built the 1 1/4" grab rail setup it seemed small because others were using 1 1/2".

Joe, did you ever consider trying smaller runners on Hooch...say...1 1/4" grab rails. Maybe the increased charge velocity would give a performance boost. Just thinking. :headscratch:

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

Sounds like a success to me.
Good going Brian.

 

[joedrum]

i had 1 1/4" that had 1" chokes in them ..it did well for the time .. but it wasnt dial in good yet...so no good comparison can be made ... on the type4 you getting 1 1/4" chokes at the runner outlets reguardless of the 1 1/2" grab bar runners .... one thing is for sure i am fixing to mess with jyd build 1200 hooched out ...it has 1" outlets...and 1 7/32" ID runners... we will see how that dose soon... its about ready to try :builder: :whip: :hihihi:

 

[esturdivant]

Brian - and you just used plain 'ol silver solder like the plumbers use?

 

[canuckxxxx]

esturdivant » Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:00 pm[/url]":3ecwdx4t]
Brian - and you just used plain 'ol silver solder like the plumbers use?

Yes and a propane torch.