canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[canuckxxxx]

So I've been playing around with the modeling clay trying to get a shape for the top of engine to plenum. I think it is close but needs to be smoothed out and refined to make it easier to cast.

heat block mold 3

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2013

heat block mold 2

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2013

heat block mold 1

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2013

 

[dan filipi]

I like the idea and seems totally workable.

I wonder if there's a heat conductive padding of some sort to put between the coolant tubes and the cast aluminum block and at the plenum.
Ya know, something that would fill in any voids and aid in heat transfer.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:46 pm[/url]":308z9edc]
I like the idea and seems totally workable.

I wonder if there's a heat conductive padding of some sort to put between the coolant tubes and the cast aluminum block and at the plenum.
Ya know, something that would fill in any voids and aid in heat transfer.

Yes, some kind of heat transfer stuff would be very useful for this. Seems like I read on here somewhere that anti-seize could be used as a heat conductor.

Brian

 

[slabghost]

Could use the heat transfer paste for computer processor chips. Expensive stuff but that's what it's made to do. You might want to clamp the heat sink mass to the coolant pipes or something to avoid vibration wear on the parts.

 

[sparrowhawkdesign]

Won't be starting mine until after Christmas but reading these threads sure gets the mind working overtime. :headscratch:

Looking at the stumbling off idle etc. issues I've come to the realization that in a way it is very similar to a cold engine with stock carbs. Because a close friend and long time GL guru friend of mine has been helping adapt the C5 ignitions to the Goldwings I have been in on that project for some time. Like most I was sceptical at first but eventually looking at the results he was getting I was impressed. I have been running one on my old Guzzi Convert for some time now and the result has put the fun back in riding the bike. I use a paddle grip to maintain a steady speed on the highway because of heavy throttle pull on that bike. With the throttle in the same position on the highway I have gained just over eight mph and the vibration in the bike has dropped enough that my throttle hand no longer goes to sleep.
Getting back to my reason for this post is the fact that my friend has done a number of 1000's and 1100's now and all the cold running/stumbling issues with the stock carbs are gone. Instant start down to 30 degrees with no choke and no spitting during warm up. They also seem to be able to drive away without as much time spent warming up. Don't get me wrong here. I agree the stock carbs are junk. However, it seems better and more complete burning of the fuel with the timing more spot on really helps.

With my 83 I will be doing the carb change first and once I have it working correctly I will be swapping out the ignition to see what happens. My plan has been to do my own plenum because I want to try a few ideas but to save time (I can't wait to ride it) I will order a carb from Tom and get a type 4 plenum and get it done. In the meantime I have to complete and prototype three new sidecar designs and all the things that go with them and then there is the three wheel car and ..........................crap!

 

[dan filipi]

I know what you mean about there being less vibration running a c5. I've noticed the same on mine. It really is incredible the improvement can be had in these engines with good spark and timing.
A tuned single carb makes it that much more enjoyable with its improvement in balance.

 

[canuckxxxx]

That is very interesting Sparrowhawk. The hesitation could be caused by a weak spark.

I have observed with my bike running in the driveway I have looked down the carb and opened the throttle quickly and noticed that it is when there is lots of gas spraying in that the bike will hesitate. Maybe there is liquid gas going into the cylinder and extinguishing the spark for a few seconds. Maybe with a way hotter spark it does not get extinguished. Or if the plenum were warm the gas would evaporate faster.

I was surprised, once when I took the manifold off the bike, right after running it, there was liquid gas in low spots.

BTW, where can I find out about the C5 ignition for an 1100?

Brian

 

[mcgovern61]

canuckxxxx » Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:56 pm[/url]":1hon25jz]
That is very interesting Sparrowhawk. The hesitation could be caused by a weak spark.

BTW, where can I find out about the C5 ignition for an 1100?
Brian

Here:

https://www.c5ignitions.com/motorcycle-ignitions.html

 

[gingerbreadman]

OH! No 1200 c5?!? Oh well....back to plan A.........re-work/adapt an MSD unit to it. It can be done, as I understand the MSD brand units. Plus some GL1500 coils and wires.

 

[canuckxxxx]

The C5 looks like a great product but way outside of my meager budget.

Didn't someone say that Dodge Neon coils made a big improvement?

Brian

 

[Dusterdude]

I would be interested in an alternative as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[canuckxxxx]

Just so you all know that I have not died I thought I would give an update on my single carb conversion:

I have a shape, in clay, of the aluminum lump that will transfer heat from the coolant plumbing to the bottom of the plenum. I just need to actually make a casting of it.

final shape in clay 2

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 27, 2013

final shape in clay 1

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 27, 2013

I managed to make a linkage to work the choke with the push-pull knob on my '82.

choke 1

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 27, 2013

Last night I took all the jets out and checked their sizes. The primary low speed jet was a 50 and the secondary low speed was a 60.

If you recall I have a big hesitation off of idle so this morning I started it up in the driveway and let it warm up. Tested snapping the throttle open and still can get it to hesitate badly. Then I swapped the primary and secondary low speed jets so I have the 60 in the primary. Had to readjust the idle mix screw in by about a turn (was out 2 1/2 turns with the 50 jet). Make quite a difference; way less hesitation.

It's a real nice day here (11C) but too much snow and ice for a ride but I did some launches in the driveway to see if it would stumble. Not a stumble or hesitation at all. Some nice strong launches so the jetting change made a difference. I think if I can warm up that plenum a bit with my heat transfer lump it should be good to go.

BTW I ran it until the radiator fan came on. With the heat shield removed you get quite a blast of warm air over you with that fan on. Like having a heater...which is nice.

Brian
Later

 

[dan filipi]

As I was reading I was going to suggest trying the 50-60 swap but you beat me to it.

I think you will find now that your plugs are getting darker.
I believe plenum heat is key here so you can go back to a 50 primary idle.

Great improvements so far.
I'm anxious to see how the lump of aluminum does for heat transfer.
I think it will do well.

I really like your linkage setup. I need to rework mine.

 

[82a]

canuckxxxx » Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:12 pm[/url]":x7z64v0e]
The C5 looks like a great product but way outside of my meager budget.

Didn't someone say that Dodge Neon coils made a big improvement?

lotsa info on the neon upgrade out there and other options

 

[canuckxxxx]

An update on the casting of my heat conductor blob that will conduct heat from the coolant lines on the top of the engine to the bottom of the plenum; here are some pics of the clay shape.

top view

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 2, 2014

bottom view

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 2, 2014

side view 1

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 2, 2014

side view 2

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 2, 2014

I have a quote from a foundry of $95 for casting this thing in aluminum. That is not cheap but probably realistic.

Now I am wondering if, for $95, I could have and aluminum "coolant box" tig welded to the bottom of the plenum with 1/4" barb fittings so coolant lines could be run to/from it. This seems to be a proven method of heating the plenum vs my heat blob which is not proven. Down side is that I would have to make holes in coolant pipes and maybe water pump.

I would welcome your opinions and comments on this.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

I'd love to see how the aluminum heat block works out, and I think $95 is very fair for making it but I'm sure coolant works.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:25 am[/url]":1n3lhsaz]
I'd love to see how the aluminum heat block works out, and I think $95 is very fair for making it but I'm sure coolant works.

Thanks Dan,
That is the dilemma that I have.

Up till now I have not made any changes other than taking the OEM rack off and playing around with single carb stuff. The old rack is sitting there if I ever want to put it back on...no changes to anything else (actually I took the heat shield off by cutting it up).

So I am still leaning toward the heat block.

Brian

 

[joedrum]

this is stupid I know but how heat resistant is the blocks you made ...what could be done to protect the outside of the blocks ... maybe something like this might work for a test or something ... but like dan says 90$ don't seem bad ... unless your me :smilie_happy:

 

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:11 am[/url]":34zkr2qv]
this is stupid I know but how heat resistant is the blocks you made ...what could be done to protect the outside of the blocks ... maybe something like this might work for a test or something ... but like dan says 90$ don't seem bad ... unless your me :smilie_happy:

I'm retired and 90 would buy a lot of cat food.

 

[dan filipi]

Copper fittings, hose, clamps..$40 tops.
Will need npt pipe taps for the water fittings.
Also the front pump flange with that fitting already on it or tap a new.