Clutch kit install - necessary to remove rear wheel?

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Driven

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Oct 27, 2012
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Location
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Hey all! Finally got to hit the little red button on my '81 today! :music:

Worked on it all winter, complete carb rebuild, etc. The good news is it runs fantastic. But when i put it in gear while running and with the clutch lever all the way in it stalls. Clutch is not disengaging. There is no more slack in the cable and I've done the adjustment under the cap in the center of the clutch cover. Still stalls.

Next step is to pull it apart and see what might be amiss. The manual says the rear wheel needs to come off but looking it over I don't see what advantage that gives. Am I missing something?
 
I wouldn't say my hands are small. But removing the rear wheel doesn't make any more room. If anything, the center stand is more in the way than the wheel. Looks like a 1/4 drive ratchet will fit in there just fine.

One other question just in case...all the kits i find are friction material only. What do you do if you need plates?
 
The clutch pack can be removed without removing anything other than the clutch cover. You will need to make or buy a clutch nut tool like this viewtopic.php?f=11&t=339. They advertise clutch nut tools that fit all gl's but usually they won't fit the 1100 without modifying them. Sometimes the clutch plates become stuck together if it's been sitting for a while and usually will break loose after the engine warms up. Some say that it could be caused by too heavy oil weight in cold weather or sticky oil. I always hold the front brake when I first drop mine into gear to prevent accidental launch. If you have to remove the clutch basket for some reason, you will have to remove the engine. I believe I would attempt to unstick the plates first especially if it's been sitting a while. You can still get the plates, friction rings and springs from Honda but they are pricey, plates are around 13.50 each and theres six of them.
 
Thanks for the info! I am thinking it's stuck plates as well. It definitely sat for an extended period of time (years) so that's not a surprise. I will take the clutch apart just so I can see what's going on. Can't see any reason why the basket would need to come out unless it's got deep notches. Glad I don't have to remove the wheel. I will do that soon so I can service the driveshaft, etc, but want to get a few miles on it first to see what else it might need.
 
Someone here recently posted about un-sticking the clutches. It involved running it up on the center stand in gear pretty quickly, then pulling in on the clutch lever and slamming the rear brake on. That un-stuck the clutch for that person. Worth a shot. :mrgreen:
 
My trusted friend who happens to be a Honda tech said something similar. He said it's unlikely that it needs to come apart, and that bikes that have sat in storage for even one winter have the same issue. We'll see what happens!
 
I would rather ride the bike without the clutch working and free it up whilst riding it rather than shocking it on the center stand.
 
Ansimp":2wc6sa92 said:
I would rather ride the bike without the clutch working and free it up whilst riding it rather than shocking it on the center stand.
Ditto.
Seems like a shock like that can't be good for the driveline or clutch plates and assembly.
Maybe it's OK but I guess if it stalls out otherwise maybe there's no other choice to break it free?
 
I tried the brake on the center stand method but just stalled the engine. Not really a fan of the potential issues there so I won't try it again. Ordered the clutch tool and will do it the right way - pull it apart and see if the previous owner screwed something up. I know it's been apart because there's silicone gasket hanging out all around the cover.
 
Ansimp":1vz1x9zh said:
I would rather ride the bike without the clutch working and free it up whilst riding it rather than shocking it on the center stand.

This is basically what my tech friend said to do. Unfortunately it has no lights and is unregistered so I can't go bombing around with it. It seems like there's more going on than stuck plates so I am not sure this would have worked anyway.
 
Driven":1sy4zbbi said:
I tried the brake on the center stand method but just stalled the engine. Not really a fan of the potential issues there so I won't try it again. Ordered the clutch tool and will do it the right way - pull it apart and see if the previous owner screwed something up. I know it's been apart because there's silicone gasket hanging out all around the cover.
Good plan.
In the long run you'll be better off this way knowing everything is as it should be.
 
Welp, my buddy was right, the plates were just stuck together. Like, REALLY stuck. After removing the push plate and springs, I had to pry the assembly out. I removed some corrosion from the plates and the stack is soaking in oil right now. I'll put it all back together tomorrow.

As a side note, I can't for the life of me understand why the manual says to remove the rear wheel. It is absolutely not necessary. Once the oil was drained i had the clutch out in 20 minutes.
 
Great to hear. I have a Cbr that had the same bonded clutch plates but it had been sitting for 5 years so it was no surprise.
 
Thanks guys. Hoping for the maiden voyage tomorrow! It will only be up and down my dead end road since it's not registered yet, but it will be a milestone nonetheless. Once I am comfortable with it's reliability and am sure I'll be happy with it long term I will begin the personalization process. Pretty sure the first purchase will crash guards with pegs attached.
 
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