Dan's Honda CBR coil install

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Remember that a relay is just an electrical switch that only draws around 200ma to activate. The relay ( switch) should be the last thing in the circuit before the device that you want to operate so that there is no current draw( voltage drop) through the switching circuit and length of run. So if placed correctly in the circuit we now only have 200ma running through the ignition switch and kill switch or the headlight high/Lo switch and on- off switch. So as you can imagine worn switches or dirty contacts are not a problem when they are only switching 200ma. Unfortunately for the headlight circuit you need 1 relay for high beam and another relay for low beam.
 
Joe do actually mean a five pole relay or a change over relay that is normally closed on 1 circuit and then changes to the other circuit when energised. If that is the style of reay then you will need another relay for the actual on off of the headlight circuit. The easiest way is two relays one to switch high beam and one to switch low beam so that the high current draw is now between the battery and the headlight filaments.
 
I have seen the drawing that is on this thread,

but does anyone have a simple drawing for the Low/high beam head light relay wiring?

Or can explain how the drawing here would relate as i am Not sure how to go about this.
 
I will try and put my useless drawing skills to work and show a more complete diagram. I will also get the tank up on the "Pig" ( naked CBR) and take a few photos, be warned there is a reason that it is called the Pig.
 
Here are the photos of my micro relays and mounting block. On the CBR I have not used a relay for the ignition at this stage as the original circuit is still working well. As they are mounted in blocks it would be easy to rob one relay that is working to replace one that has failed, but in reality they don't fail very often ( many vehicles running around with 20 year old relays).
 

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I just tested and then mounted my MP08 GL1500 coils, also eliminated the resistor.

Very Nice, they have a really bright spark.

One of the 83' oem coils was DOA, or was it SOL, no I was SOL with the doa.

the other 83' oem coil was just barely in spec. 16.2k the GL1500 coil was 23.5K on the secondary, Primary was fine on both of the 83' coils.

I used the GL1500 caps and coil wires that came with the coils, just cleaned the Coil wires with some old Brake fluid, they look like brand new.

I really like the smaller size of these MP08 coils off of the
CBR 750, & CBR900
GL1500
VFR750

I also like the higher output, NICE!!

I have not started the bike yet as I have another issue to resolve first.
 
What I did on my current 1100 to lighten the load on the ignition switch was to use a relay for everything except the actual ignition system, it still runs through the ignition and kill switches. I believe this makes it more reliable, at least the ignition. If a relay fails I just loose lighting etc. but the engine still runs.
 
DaveO430":1vtzds0e said:
What I did on my current 1100 to lighten the load on the ignition switch was to use a relay for everything except the actual ignition system, it still runs through the ignition and kill switches. I believe this makes it more reliable, at least the ignition. If a relay fails I just loose lighting etc. but the engine still runs.
Click to expand...
If you ever think that you have weak ignition, then give a thought to putting a relay on the circuit and if you use the same relays you can always swap a high beam one for ignition if you have a failure. As I said earlier I have vehicles with 20 year old relays that haven't failed yet
 
I would like to see how many have changed to this Option?

How many People have switched to the MP08 coils,

Did you remove the Ballast resistor?

How long ago did you do this?

About how many miles ago?

Are you having any problems since the switch?

Have you had to replace any elec. switches?
 
I changed to the GL1500 MP08 coils and Spark Plug Wires

The GL1500 coils & plug Wires cost me $35.00 + $10.00 shipping,Ebay, Plus i have a Extra Coil and 2 extra Plug Wires,
Since the GL1500 is a 6Cyl. there are more parts, I have spares too, all for $45.00 delivered.

I did remove the ballast resister
My plug wires are 1500 plug wires I am not sure if they have the resisters in them or not.

I changed mine about 8 months ago

But not a lot of miles on them yet

No problems at all.

They do seem better then what I had on the bike previously,

Bike seems to start faster.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95916#p95916:i6yhf7rt said:
westgl » Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:10 pm[/url]":i6yhf7rt]
I would like to see how many have changed to this Option?

How many People have switched to the MP08 coils,
:wave:

Did you remove the Ballast resistor?
Yes

How long ago did you do this?
A few months ago

About how many miles ago?
100 miles at most

Are you having any problems since the switch?
Never did have a problem

Have you had to replace any elec. switches?
Like a start button or such? I have a relay powering the main fuse block. That virtually eliminated any voltage drop. Did that years ago.
Click to expand...

My findings:
Spark seemed slightly better.
It did seem to start a little better.
 
Great

thanks guys,

Just a FYI,

I Was looking through some forums, saw were some guys are using the Pulse Generators from the GL1500, on the GL11/GL12

They say that they are a heavy duty, and are Very Durable PG's, and they are insulated way better to take the heat, better than either the GL11/GL12
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... ost2502666
 
I added the CBR coils last year-
I also added new plug wires and new resistor caps.
I removed the ballast resistor.

bike seems to run better; starting is almost instantaneous...

So far, I cannot find a down side to doing this upgrade.

Anyone else?
 

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