Fuse box and wiring

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Andyb

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Today I noticed that my horn and signals were only working intermittently. This is a pain but the fact that the the brake light functions on that same fuse gives me concern. I came home and checked the fuse and it was fine. Went ahead and switched it out for a new fuse and had the same problem.

I went ahead and pulled the fuse box and took a look inside the back cover. Nothing is obviously amiss but I did notice that when I wiggled the fuse box, certain positions allowed the signals, etc to function and certain positions did not. That seems like a problem with the wire to me. Anybody else got an idea?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=162412#p162412:3115huxa said:
toytender01 » 2 minutes ago[/url]":3115huxa]
Make sure that the clips hold the fuses tight.
I had that problem and ended up replacing the fuse panel after touching the end of one fuse and seeing the lights flicker and it was very hot.
The metal fatigues leaving no choice but to replace it because it won't hold good pressure against the fuse.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=162416#p162416:27a59hc7 said:
dan filipi » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:42 pm[/url]":27a59hc7]
I had that problem and ended up replacing the fuse panel after touching the end of one fuse and seeing the lights flicker and it was very hot.
The metal fatigues leaving no choice but to replace it because it won't hold good pressure against the fuse.
Did you replace it with a modern fuse panel or find an old wing panel in better shape?
 
I replaced it with a aftermarket 6 blade holder like this one....

dc12v-6-way-car-auto-circuit-blade-fuse-box-holder-atc-for-middel-size-blade-fuses_4887309.jpg
 
Nice choice, newer design is often a better option in many of our electrical issues. :good:
 
I have seen where many others have updated to newer style blade type fuse boxes with great results. I think there is a ''how-to'' somewhere that lays out the entire swap. Maybe others can chime in here to locate that site.
 
Well, darn. Went out this morning and the bike would not start. It is acting like it is not getting spark. I pulled the plugs and it is definitely getting fuel. I dried them, put them back in and still no start. I pulled the plug wires and stuck a metal bar in the plug wire and did not see or hear a spark jump to ground. It could be coincidence with the brake light etc working intermittently but it sure seems possible. I know those circuits are separate but I wonder if the wires have worn under the tape causing them to ground on each other. Seems like that would only affect one side and I think I am sparkless on both sides as it is not even trying to catch.

I am going to check the kill switch first but I almost never use that. Any other thoughts on where to start? OH- the brake, blinker and horn were all working this morning.
 
True, Joe but at least it ran for a few days. I would be wondering what I had done on the inside of the motor.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=162447#p162447:2y7r2wvf said:
Andyb » Today, 9:05 am[/url]":2y7r2wvf]
Well, darn. Went out this morning and the bike would not start. It is acting like it is not getting spark. I pulled the plugs and it is definitely getting fuel. I dried them, put them back in and still no start. I pulled the plug wires and stuck a metal bar in the plug wire and did not see or hear a spark jump to ground. It could be coincidence with the brake light etc working intermittently but it sure seems possible. I know those circuits are separate but I wonder if the wires have worn under the tape causing them to ground on each other. Seems like that would only affect one side and I think I am sparkless on both sides as it is not even trying to catch.

I am going to check the kill switch first but I almost never use that. Any other thoughts on where to start? OH- the brake, blinker and horn were all working this morning.

Bad wiring connections can be everywhere on these old machines, I have had to seek out repair most every circuit on my project, My circuits were acting funky off and on like yours at one point, it like to have run me nuts chasing inconsistent electrical issues. Two of the main things I did that cure them was other than the battery terminals, clean up shiny the ground cable where it connects to the frame and the positive cable to the solenoid connection. On the accessories I unplugged the bullets and spun a round wire brush up inside the female then buffed the male with sandpaper and applied dielectric grease, Finally, I removed all the glass barrel fuses and ran the round wire brush inside them until they were shiny, then new fuses for good measure, This remedied my crazy off and on issues. If you need it, I can tell you how to diagnose your ignition coils with an ohm meter too.
 
Speaking of test light, that's a better tester for power than a volt meter.
Volt meter can show power present but once a load is put on, the power flow drops off. A test light puts a load on the circuit so it's more accurate for trouble shooting a problem like this.
 
True,
I use a quality test light that looks like a clear handled screwdriver with a bulb inside and a single lead with an alligator clamp for ground. Quick easy visible check.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
So, I am a dope. I checked the kill switch and went ahead and cleaned it (managed to lose the ball bearing the process-put that on the to do list) but that did not fix it. Pulled the false tank cover and discovered that managing to pull apart the connector sending juice to the coils will cause a no spark condition every single time. I don't know if I unplugged it by mistake when I was check the horn wiring or it just popped apart when I was working on the fuse box. I have never been so happy to discover I was an idiot in my whole life. Running like a champ now. Woot!
 
Nope,
You're not a dope or an idiot just a human.
I've made my share of oversights and goofy flubs.
Glad you're man enough to admit it.
Congrats on finding the problem and getting her running again.
 
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