Head Gasket Replacement - What else while your in there

[importcustomx]

Hey Guys,

I have a 1985 GL1200 A

I am going to be replacing the head gaskets. I have a few questions.

I have the clymers manual but was looking for the honda manual or something with the torque specs of everything.
Does anyone have this that they can share?

What else should i do while i am doing the heads?
Water Pump?
Neutral Switch?

i plan on doing the timing chain/belt (cant remember offhand what it is)

Any suggestions or any links to websites where i can get a good head gasket,waterpump,and neutral switch (or do i just clean that)?

I did try searching the forum, but i kept getting the same 1 thread and it was relevant.

thanks guys

 

[backyardtrouble]

...i don't know how much mechanial abilities you have...but if you don't have alot, i would try to get someone that does to help you. We will help you here as much as possible.
You can get alot of info from the shop talk and tech reference forum, and repairs and Mod.

 

[importcustomx]

backyardtrouble » Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:28 am[/url]":2cfk7hrq]
...i don't know how much mechanial abilities you have...but if you don't have alot, i would try to get someone that does to help you. We will help you here as much as possible.
You can get alot of info from the shop talk and tech reference forum, and repairs and Mod.

No problemshere, not mechanically challened :builder: , i just like to make sure i have everything before i get started thats all.

Done it on cars a bunch, always tinkered with things.

I just basically want the torque specs for the head...and i know guys have replaced timing belt and the water pump and neutral switch while in there doing this...was looking to get more insight to see what other people have done

 

[dan filipi]

No reason to replace the neutral switch or water pump if there's no problem with them.
The water pump shaft can be checked for play by removing the lower hose fitting and check for play in the bearing

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=VWOcToW3My8[/video]

There should no play side to side or up and down play. Some play in rotation is OK.
If there's no coolant or oil coming out the weep hole then it's good.

We have the Honda Service manual in the Gallery gallery/album.php?album_id=1177

 

[joedrum]

changing head gasket is easy on oldwings ...the critical things .. are making sure you have pistons sunk down halfway while taking the heads off ... and having the cams close timed positions before moving crank to T1 for belt install .....and the most important thing is just clean it like new ...hard to beat that policy....

 

[importcustomx]

awesome thanks guys thats what i was looking for!

my neutral switch is a little finicky at times..sometimes i get the green light..sometimes i dont...i have to bounce the shifter lever a lil and it comes..not a big deal but something i wouldnt mind addressing.

Good stuff guys, thanks!

I will make a little GoPro Video when i dive into this sunday, ill make sure to post it up

 

[zman]

The head gasket should be an easy job, just put the timing mark at T1 then remove the timing belt covers and double check your marks at each belt line up with the marks on the covers then when removing any head I always back out the head bolts in increments and with the same touque pattern. There is a small bolt at the bottom of the head I would remove first install last, it is not related to the larger head bolts, once that is out just loosen the headbolts maybe an 1/8 turn per bolt in a cross pattern till they are all loose, same on torqueing them down, 6 of them I think the same as the 1100.
Just remember no need to rush anything, keep it clean and organized. Not sure if it applies to wings but I always run a headbolt down the threads in the block after the head is off to clean out the threads.

 

[dan filipi]

zman » Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:09 pm[/url]":2uf9hkli]
The head gasket should be an easy job, just put the timing mark at T1 then remove the timing belt covers and double check your marks at each belt line up with the marks on the covers then when removing any head I always back out the head bolts in increments and with the same touque pattern. There is a small bolt at the bottom of the head I would remove first install last, it is not related to the larger head bolts, once that is out just loosen the headbolts maybe an 1/8 turn per bolt in a cross pattern till they are all loose, same on torqueing them down, 6 of them I think the same as the 1100.
Just remember no need to rush anything, keep it clean and organized. Not sure if it applies to wings but I always run a headbolt down the threads in the block after the head is off to clean out the threads.

Yes, keep it clean inside and out for proper torque of the head bolts.
Dab some grease on the bolt threads prior to installing.

 

[mickster]

use only Honda OEM head gaskets don't bother with cheaper after market.also it's a good idea to blow out the head bolt holes with compressed air.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

 

[importcustomx]

awesome info, I am a bit of a neat freak, my shop floor can be eaten off of... I am definitely going to make a video and post i up...something for the gl1200 guys

 

[AApple]

Otay....no-one else is gunna step up and ask, so I will....you KNOW yer all wonderin....

WHO is the gal on the poster on the back wall? :mrgreen:
I could never work in a shop/garage that clean...it just ain't natural..... :smilie_happy:

 

[mickster]

also don't remove the 2 bolts that hold the water coolant 90 degree fitting on the head. just when you remove the head the 90 degree fitting will pull away from the coolant pipe.there's an o-ring there that you probably should replace.the reason to not remove the the bolts is that many times they are seized.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

 

[OldWrench]

Since these heads are aluminum I would have them surfaced by a machine shop, but that is just me. Also I always run a tap down head bolt holes to insure I get proper torque when I install them. Depending on how many miles is on the engine, you might consider doing the valves as well.

 

[importcustomx]

the gal in the poster i believe is Nev campbel...cant remember!

I was thinking about that, but i am thinking it might be good idea.

replace the valves?

Where do you guys get all your parts from? Its a nightmare trying to find gaskets online that are the actual correct ones..let alone valves

i must have missed that thread

 

[oldmopars]

i am doing the same thing right now. I am lapping the valves and and replacing all the seals. If you have not done the timing belts, do them now.

 

[importcustomx]

oldmopars » Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:40 pm[/url]":xg5ekwl2]
i am doing the same thing right now. I am lapping the valves and and replacing all the seals. If you have not done the timing belts, do them now.

then i guess i will...

Where did you get your head gaskets and belts?

 

[oldmopars]

I haven't ordered gaskets yet, but get your belts from Amazon, Gates belts cheap price. About $30 for the pair.

 

[user 2950]

Along with this head gasket discussion, the shop manual calls for the rocker arms to be removed along with the cam shaft. It then goes on to describe the process for checking tolerances for diameter. Is all that necessary if I'm only replacing the head gasket? Can't I remove the head with the rockers and cams in place?

 

[slabghost]

Removing the rockers is a good idea. Without them even a bad belt install will be harmless. I'd leave the rockers off until the belts are installed properly and verified. Too much play in the rockers will make valve adjustment difficult. So it's worth checking.

 

[ekvh]

I don't think anyone mentioned cam seals. They're cheap. You need three.