Help!!!! 1984 gl1200 Engine won't make full rotation

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hmmmm ok someone better than me on forum will answer ... i can work on bikes but im a dunce on forum navigation .....try typing in jyd in the search deal theres head removalthere and plenty of pics im thinking
 
Remove the timing belt covers, loosen the tensioners and the belts. I would remove the camshaft drive gears and then the camshafts.
Remove to nuts holding the exhaust pipes, and the bolts holding the carburetor manifolds to the heads on both sides. Tie the carbs up out of the way.

Remove the tachometer cable from the back of the right hand head.

Before removing the head main head bolts, there is a small bold at the bottom of each head, takes a 10mm socket, remove it, then remove the main head bolts. All bolts turn counterclockwise to remove.

I use a rubber hammer to break the head lose from the gasket, don't over do it. The head must come straight off.
DO NOT use a sharp metal object to separate the head, it is aluminum and if you damage the surface you will need to have it resurfaced.


Wala, it's miller time.

Ok, guys, what did I forget, my mind is only so good this time of the day.
 
Small update. The starter is turning when I turn it the small distance it will turn. Also with the belts off all the valves are closed from outside inspection and it still won't turn. I am assuming one of them isn't closing if it isn't the starter.
 
If all valves appear to be closed they are not. If the cams are still in place they are not closed. Bite the bullet and pull the heads before you cause irreversible damage if it hasn't already taken place.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177365#p177365:2wjr1jd3 said:
OldWrench » Thu Jul 21, 2016 5:50 pm[/url]":2wjr1jd3]
Remove the timing belt covers, loosen the tensioners and the belts. I would remove the camshaft drive gears and then the camshafts.
Remove to nuts holding the exhaust pipes, and the bolts holding the carburetor manifolds to the heads on both sides. Tie the carbs up out of the way.

Remove the tachometer cable from the back of the right hand head.

Before removing the head main head bolts, there is a small bold at the bottom of each head, takes a 10mm socket, remove it, then remove the main head bolts. All bolts turn counterclockwise to remove.

I use a rubber hammer to break the head lose from the gasket, don't over do it. The head must come straight off.
DO NOT use a sharp metal object to separate the head, it is aluminum and if you damage the surface you will need to have it resurfaced.


Wala, it's miller time.

Ok, guys, what did I forget, my mind is only so good this time of the day.
Click to expand...


great post seems just the exhaust pipes were left off or on actually... :BigGrin:
 
If you tried turning the engine over with the starter with the belts off, you most likely bent a valve at the very least. The camshaft is what opens and closes the valves, the belts only turn the camshafts.

Take the advice of the folks trying to help you and take the heads off, if you were real lucky you haven't damaged anything more than maybe a valve.
 
OK here is the left head. I wiped off the mystery crud and sprayed PB blaster in the cylinder and it looks like just stain no surface erosion. The valves cleaned up pretty good with paper towel. How do I clean cylinder without pulling piston it seems to be only at top.
 

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Pull the other head too. That way you should be able to turn the crank to bottom out the pistons for clean up. Don't try to turn it with the cam still on the head.
 
Help.... Is anybody not riding and bored. Lol I need to spend all weekend on my bike and I need to know how clean the cylinder of yuck without damage. I am assuming that maybe a scotch pad and just pb blaster or I could use dremal and clean the valves and cylinder.
 
Too hot here so I'll be in pretty much all day.

I take a wire wheel chucked into a drill to clean the head and valve faces.
PB blaster and scotch pad good for cylinder.

You'll want to lap the valves and seats so I'd go ahead and pull all the valves so you can do a good cleaning. With the valves out and clean it is easy to check if it's bent.
 
Okay I tried to clean cylinder it doesn't seem to want to come clean the deposit don't come off easy how smooth and clean does it need to be for the Pistons to just wipe it clean by itself it seems to be some sort of circulation scale I scraped a little spot off but it won't come out with green pad
 
ok as one who has done this type of restore to the max ...oldwings are flat 4 motors anglazed bad on the bottom side of cyllinders and also pit and rust here ...the trick here is to work where the problems are and dont ever dig below surface ...as this wil degrade things ...personally ive used all kinds of tools and vey aggressive ones also like triangle files ..and attack all stuuff above cylinder ..without any digging past surface ...glaze can be hard ...harder than bare steel ..thats why hones dont do good ..they glide ove glaze and dig into cylinders ...smarts and time will produce the best surface even the rings moving piston ever so lightly work good near the end of clean up ...spray stuff like wd 40 ...many things ....but the best tool is smart hands
 

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