Help ! reinstalled new stator question?

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chargincharlie

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ok so i put stator in replaced engine when i crank it over engine does not want to run it trys but its poping and back firing . Could this problem be in the Pulse generator at first i had a problem getting to put the center mechanism back in same spot i removed it from .So does it only fit on one way or could i have advanced or retarted it ? this sux really dont feel like taking engine off or removing back tire and swing arm to check out pulse generator i have the book but it does not show mutch in either of the two manuels i have clymers and honda Thank in advance for help
 
I`m not familiar with them but it sure sounds like timing/ignition, only thing I can say is double check your wiring, sometimes those quick connect plugs fail and instead of connecting the male/female parts it pushes one side out but is barely seen when looking at it. Check for pinched wires too.
 
First check your spark plug wires to coil connections. It is very common to run the wrong wire to the wrong coil which leads to backfiring and running poor.
 
i did number plug wire before removell. but i will double check everything first guys Thanks ! will let ya know what happens . I did check fuel pump is getting fuel from tank and threw pump to carbs.
 
Check out THIS Post, and read thru the rest of the thread. Left the small bolt that holds the rotor onto the shaft off, and caused the exact same symptoms. :builder:
 
well just rtemoved engine out far enought to take plate off i only removed center screw then pulled out center mechanisim i have to figure out how to line up thye center mechanisim to the inside generator looking in my books said only goies in one way unless its a 1100 which it is but dont say or show antthing else on it im not putting it back together untill im sure its rite if any one has had same problems tune me in PLEASE I NEED PHOTOS OR SOMETHING HERE THANKS
 
GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 15-8

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 15-8


The rotor will ONLY fit on the shaft all they way down one way...there is a slot on the rotor that must line up with the small dowel pin on the shaft. That small pin can fall out if you're not watching, so make sure it is in there. If it is, the rotor will only turn only a couple of degrees in either direction. If it spins freely all the way around, you've found your problem....now you need to find the pin and re-insert it into the shaft. btdt... :Awe:
 
WELL i already put back together and cranked still not running i am going to try tomorrow if it dont work i am going to part out the bike i am tired of messing with it 3 times is enought of removing engine and reinstalling thanks for the help
 
You do NOT have to pull the engine to get to the pulse generator/rotor! I've have the cover off of mine several times after screwing it up, because there was no way I was going to pull the engine, or the swing arm to do check/fix what I needed. An 8mm wrench from underneath will get two of the bolts out, and a loong 8mm wrench will get the hard to get to one on the far right side out. With the cover off, you can check to make sure the rotor is properly attached, and spinning as it should while cranking. It the rotor is working as it supposed to be, then it's time to dig deeper for the no-start problem. Don't give up yet!!!! Trust me....a LOT of us have been in your shoes, and ready to set fire to the durn thing. Just take a break for a while, and clear your head before jumping back in. We're here to help, and offer whatever support we can. :yes: :good:
 
thanks for the encouragement AAPLE what i did was look at another engine i have took it apart slowly did not see any little pin but i did see how the top mechanisism fit onto the shaft is what i had wrong what i did was went ahead and changed the pulse generator from other engine that i new was good i tryed cranking it lastnight sounded better but had a fuel leak from tank to pump so i stoped for the night today i purchased new fuel line and filter after i replace it i will try and crank if over im praying it starts if not i figured removing the engine is easeyr to see what im doing down fall is cant crank it over to see what its doing but sure is alot of work removing engine which ive done 3 times already i can get it out in about 4 hours and 4 hours back in by myself but i believe this time she is going to run
 
welppppp did not start but i do remember when i put the center mechanism back into the pulse generator and tightened it down it did keep on spinning as i tryed to tighten down so there must be the problem does anyone have a photo of the pin i assume im missing my eyes are not the best ? were it goes ? or a stick or two of some TNT DYNOMITE i'll fix it so here i go again remove engine :fiddle: same old sob story lol :fiddle: :music2:
 
Ok well talk of giving up or sticking tnt to it doesn't get it fixed.

First pic is the shaft without a pin. Pin fell out of this parts engine.
Second pic is the backside of the rotor that goes on that shaft. Note the slot in it to engage the pin. That is a must to keep the ignition timing correct.

image.php


image.php


You need to source a pin that fits tight in the hole. Maybe cut a screw or something similar to length needed.
 
what i dont get if i only removed the center cap off the pg why would the pin go missing ? not to make anyone sound dumb but another question does the 1980-1983 engines have this pin i removed two so far and either of them ive seen a pin I have one more engine left with the pg on it i just removed the center nut and pulled off only the top rotor part does this mean ive lost the pin i did not see anything inside of pg and if it fell engine is standing up and the timing pulleys are on a pallet so if pin fell it would fall in pg i dont want to remove any incase i need that pg my books show no pin im baffled
 
ok so i did not remove spark advance when i changed housing pg assembly so pin should still be there i think im just not lining up the attaching center bolt to the shaft so timing is off i do not see any timing marks to line anything up im assuming
 
All 1100 engines have that pin.
It is the only way the rotor knows where it has to be positioned before tightening the shaft end nut, otherwise the rotor with the centrifugal advancers will spin freely.
 

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