Just a Stator question -

[TheRepoGuy]

Gonna be a longer mostly rambling post but I figured it’s worth asking!

I figured I’d consult the masses again with this one, more curious than anything really. I came across a killer deal on a 1987 Aspy earlier today that I might snag and ditch my 1985...while my Interstate NOW runs fine (said forget it and took it to a shop, surprisingly only had a bad rectifier and a couple loose wires that I missed) I kinda wanna get away from this girl for the time being.

That said - the owner of this other bike said he has manually wired a volt meter gauge into a switch that also turns on his fan...with the bike off he says the voltage stays at about 13.5 but with the bike running he says it pegs the needle on the gauge which tells me it’s likely overcharging but then I thought about it and what I think he did with the wiring of the gauge means it’s not showing an accurate voltage at all...simply because if it’s wired into a switch which powers the fan manually it’s not correctly reading the battery voltage (I think)

So - if in fact the stator is charging his battery at 18+ volts which I again find super hard to believe though I guess it’s possible - would that be indicative of a bad stator or would it be something potentially wrong with the Rectifier?

Slightly perplexed about that so I figured I’d ask.
Nate


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[julimike54]

"Sense" wire to RR not making connection well?

 

[TheRepoGuy]

"Sense" wire to RR not making connection well?

That or a bad rectifier is my guess


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[dan filipi]

A simple check with a volt meter across the battery terminals would be the first check. I wouldn't trust a meter connected in at the fan, that sounds goofy.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

A simple check with a volt meter across the battery terminals would be the first check. I wouldn't trust a meter connected in at the fan, that sounds goofy.

I don’t think it’s necessarily connected at the fan but it’s powered through the switch which turns on the fan [emoji848][emoji848][emoji848]


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[OldCrow]

TheRepoGuy » 49 minutes ago[/url]":2dkqxmwn]

A simple check with a volt meter across the battery terminals would be the first check. I wouldn't trust a meter connected in at the fan, that sounds goofy.

I don’t think it’s necessarily connected at the fan but it’s powered through the switch which turns on the fan [emoji848][emoji848][emoji848]


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You will see a lower voltage if the meter is at the end of a wire supplying current to a device as opposed to metering the battery directly. This is because there is always a voltage drop across a wire when there is current flow. The larger the wire gauge the less drop.
That said you should never see 18vdc after the regulator connected to a good battery. 18 will cook any flooded or AGM battery. For instance my AGM I just had to put in has a max charge of 14.6vdc at 77degF. And max charge decreases as ambient temperature drops.

I'd put my own DVM across the battery to see what is happening and not trust some unknown meter.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

TheRepoGuy » 49 minutes ago[/url]":39nfkztg]

A simple check with a volt meter across the battery terminals would be the first check. I wouldn't trust a meter connected in at the fan, that sounds goofy.

I don’t think it’s necessarily connected at the fan but it’s powered through the switch which turns on the fan [emoji848][emoji848][emoji848]


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You will see a lower voltage if the meter is at the end of a wire supplying current to a device as opposed to metering the battery directly. This is because there is always a voltage drop across a wire when there is current flow. The larger the wire gauge the less drop.
That said you should never see 18vdc after the regulator connected to a good battery. 18 will cook any flooded or AGM battery. For instance my AGM I just had to put in has a max charge of 14.6vdc at 77degF. And max charge decreases as ambient temperature drops.

I'd put my own DVM across the battery to see what is happening and not trust some unknown meter.

The chances I buy this bike are slim to none honestly - the owner was supposed to send me a bunch of information about it and what’s been done but has magically lost it along with the title. 1987 needs that magical piece of paper (pre 1985 does not in GA) otherwise it’s just another parts bike and I’m not buying another parts bike.


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[OldCrow]

The chances I buy this bike are slim to none honestly - the owner was supposed to send me a bunch of information about it and what’s been done but has magically lost it along with the title. 1987 needs that magical piece of paper (pre 1985 does not in GA) otherwise it’s just another parts bike and I’m not buying another parts bike.


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Oh too bad. Up here in Maine,NH all we need for these old machines is a Bill of Sale. Maine didn't start titling until after 1994, I suppose the prices had gotten high enough to get a bit more attention.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

The chances I buy this bike are slim to none honestly - the owner was supposed to send me a bunch of information about it and what’s been done but has magically lost it along with the title. 1987 needs that magical piece of paper (pre 1985 does not in GA) otherwise it’s just another parts bike and I’m not buying another parts bike.


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Oh too bad. Up here in Maine,NH all we need for these old machines is a Bill of Sale. Maine didn't start titling until after 1994, I suppose the prices had gotten high enough to get a bit more attention.

It is what it is - the whole thing sounds like a shamble worse than my Interstate was...


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[DaveKamp]

Ehhh... he's got that gauge wired wrong... and more than likely, it got damaged as a result.

One thing people don't understand about electric fans... when you turn the power off, the fan is still turning, and when the wind blows through them when they're off, they spin. Since the fan motor is a permanent magnet DC device, it becomes a 'generator', and with it being open circuit (aside from a very high impedance voltmeter) the voltage goes very high... high enough to fry an average autmotive voltmeter.