single carb project started- 77 GL1000/ Weber 32 DFT

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akolleth

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Stared up on my single carb project this week. I have spent an ungodly amount of time reading almost every thread I could on the conversion. Then spent a bunch more time acquiring parts and pieces (so many more than I thought I would need).

My specs- as it were. Note these are all the preliminary thoughts, if they change I will update them with what I changed my idea to.

Carburetor- Motorcraft 5740 (AKA Weber 32 DFT) bought nice rebuilt one from Ebay for $45. I was going to get the new one from Stovebolt, but I figured I could always get one of his later if I run into trouble with this one.

Manifold- DKL's PVC manifold design with flex pvc.

1 to 2 barrel Adapter- Standard 1 to 2 barrel adapter, adapting the Weber base to fit on the PVC manifold. Got mine locally at a racing supercenter https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2025

Throttle- Using stock throttle pull cable with a Uni-link kit to connect https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-Link-Fits-Weber-Progressive-Carb-Sand-Rail-CPR129416-SR-/311008028469

Choke- removed electronic choke, making my own bracket to attach to manual choke cable. I live in Ohio so I need the choke capability.

Fuel Line Had to get a banjo bolt as the carb didn't have a barb for connecting fuel line. Mine was M10x1 MM threads and you need a 6mm line for the fuel hose. The GW has 5.5MM fuel line, but it will stretch easily enough on the 6mm barb https://www.ebay.com/itm/M10-X-1-0-...Hose-Blow-Off-Wastegate-/171733620652?vxp=mtr
 
Step one- obtain carb and assorted PVC parts to build manifold- check Man look how nice that looks, that's the actual pic by the way.

htfjt4.jpg


Step 2- take off original carb rack- check- no pics at the moment

Step 3- Start building DKL's PVC manifold. Mounted full old carb rack on a sheet of plywood, marked the locations of the intake manifolds, then separated them from the rack. Put a few screws in to hold the intake manifolds in place in their proper location. Then moved on to the first set of runners. these are the ones that don't need cut down for size (the other 2 will need cut down a bit)

8wz1av.jpg


Note: The flange I got from Flex PVC had a significant group of grooved ridges around the central hole which obviously won't work when trying to seal a gasket. So I hade to sand the grooves down to flat. Started with 100 grit then will work up to around 400 for a smooth finish. Note: I am not entirely done sanding away the grooves in this pic, you can still see the remnants of the outer groove

rvje5e.jpg
 
Ripped the electrical choke completely off, this is the side where it used to sit. I am working on a cardboard template for the cable brackets, and not shown is a template for the choke lever arm. I find its always nice to take your ideas from paper to something more solid to see how things fit and work together before committing to steel. The two cables (choke and throttle) will have to come in from opposite directions, so hence why I need 2 brackets.

For the choke I will be re-purposing all 3 of the old choke body mounting holes. The 2 on top will be to hold the cable bracket for the manual choke cable, the bottom one will be the pivot point for the new choke arm, which I am still working on a final design for. I need to ge the Uni-link installed to see how much clearance I have to figure out a solid design.

The throttle cable will use the uni-link wheel attached to the bottom bolt with te spring attached after I take away the excessive bracket I no longer need as it was for the electric choke. I will make a bracket that attaches to 2 of the 4 mounting holes for the carb body to the manifold. Not sure if I will need extra long screws for that yet, time will tell.



2urmtmr.jpg
 
Made more progress today- got the manifold finished. Here is with the runners all glued in place

28a6vzd.jpg


And finished! Just need to smooth out the top a little with some 400 grit sandpaper for a better gasket joint

vcyzj7.jpg
 
Made some more progress on the carb, ran into a snag hoping one of you can help with-

Manifold is done

5cddo3.jpg


carb is in the bike

slo46c.jpg



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfb2KFP ... e=youtu.be

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfb2KFPa6MA&feature=youtu.be[/video]

And...success! Sort of. Here is where I need your guys expertise. Will not start on its own without some throttle being applied. With a small bot of throttle applied it will start up. As long as I stay higher than 2700 rpm it will stay running all day long. Drop to 2500 rpm and almost instant cut off. Also- I was playing with the choke and found if the choke plate was closed it would not run, even to the point of if I was running it at 3000 RPM and manually closed the choke plate, bam almost instant cut off.

If I didn't say it before- let me emphasize I am a newbie to carbs. So not even sure where to start with adjustments or what to look for.
 
Need to read through some the single carb threads most deal with that carb and it needs less fuel jet and bigger air jet on primary side and the idle circuit is way too rich.
 
Still working on it. I had to ditch the motorcraft because it decided to eat itself. Actually what happened is it started leaking gas from some areas that should have been sealed on the carb body and I didn't want to tear the whole thing apart to see if I could find the leaking gasket or o-ring. I had only paid $50 for it so I put it aside as a parts donor and bought one of the new Stovebolt carbs. I suppose I should have done that from the start, but hey- live and learn.

Got it installed, and it was running solid, although at super high rpm (2800) I could not get the idle adjustment down because of the electric choke (not hooked up) I pulled the carb off to take the electric choke off, sealed up the resulting vacuum hole with JB weld, and hooked it back up.

Now it wont start and is backfiring up through the carb. I started a separate thread asking about that one-
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=107&t=9923

So as it sits I am waiting on a NOS set of points to come in the mail, along with an offset 12mm wrench that should be here this week. Then I am going to start running through the possible fixes one at a time starting with the points timing.
 
I think the bacfire is a lean bacfire,try some starting fluid and see if it starts
 

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