Timing Belt - great price

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Hawk8

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OldHondaJamie looked through my maintenance log and gave me some advice - timing belt may only have a couple thousand miles on it, but it's 11 years old...as cheap as hey are, and as big an effect they can have, you should probably just go ahead and replace it. He recommended rockauto, and it was a good enough deal I thought I'd share it here. Three day shipping and it all cost somewhere around $15...guess I know what I'll be doing this Saturday :builder: :beer:
 
Probably not news to anyone else around here, but it serves to prove how quickly I will screw things up if left to my own devices...apparently, I need two belts for the job. :Doh2:
Got the second one on order not too long after...this will be the first point I make if I do an instructional for [clueless] guys like me!
 
Timing belt install is the most risky job on these bikes. Lots of guys have gotten into trouble and have bent valves.

Read up and ask lots of questions before starting it and along the way.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160629#p160629:3aqw5cls said:
dan filipi » Today, 11:56 am[/url]":3aqw5cls]
Timing belt install is the most risky job on these bikes. Lots of guys have gotten into trouble and have bent valves.

Read up and ask lots of questions before starting it and along the way.
That's pretty intimidating...I didn't expect it to be 'easy,' but I also hadn't considered the amount of damage I could potentially incur. Thanks for the heads up Dan, I'll definitely take it real slow and try not to let my impatience trick me into creating problems I can't afford to fix.
 
Never had a problem, you have marks to line up before, & after the exchange of belts. Rotate two complete revolutions, checking marks each rotation,(by hand, with spark plugs out). Takes two more revolutions, to set tension adjusters, so adjuster that is tight on belt is snugged up, rotate then snug up the other so as not to over tighten,& reassemble.Not hard, & after first time you won't hesitate again! :nea:
 
if its the first time ....give the keys to bike to someone who will not give them back till the bike has been turned over by hand many times and timing marks proven to be right ...before they let you have them back .....it is that risky .....really just dont use power at all till your sure it right ...the have marks that should never be there on the pulleys ...to this day i cant figure honda would put such marks on pulleys ....take pics post entire job ..its what the forum is for collective oldwing tech
 
Mark all three revolving mass cogs, crank, & both cam gears, as well as marks on cases. Dot's of white paint, let dry & there for next time.
 
Clymer manual instructions for changing the belts is very simplified.
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Be sure you mark the timing marks prominently before you begin taking them off and it would be a very good idea to remove the valve rocker assemblies first . Valve spring tension can (does) rotate the cam and crank. It's a good time to set the valves anyway. Proceed with caution.
 
No need to remove the valve rocker assemblies, just loosen up the tappet adjusters all the way. FYI, rocker assembly also holds the cam in, no need to remove it unless doing other work and besides, it holds the cam to the head.
 
yep its not a real hard job really till you do it wrong and break something ..it is quite difficult to get to some bolts and fustraiting and that can lead to mistakes ...after timed right belt tensioning becomes the top priority ....
 
Man - lots of great info here! The belts came in today, so I'll be reading this three again and again until go time I'm sure. Thanks guys
 
IF its running ... before you start to change them , take the timing belt covers off , use an old paint brush or something like that to clean the sprockets and the case around them . use a wrench and turn the eng. over till all the marks are lined up . then Mark all of them like was said , with a white paint marker , and be careful and slowly loosen the Idlers and back them away from the belts , and DON'T move either of the Cam pulleys OR the Crank pulley . and you can put it back , just like it was before you removed them . . :popcorn:
 
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