Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

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slabghost":36twqafs said:
Cam should have no effect on ignition timing on the 1100.
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Well it's something then as I'm not a ace mechanic for sure, now I wish I could have tested my timing before I did all the work to the advance's so I'd know what it looked like before... first thing I'd do is take the other cover off and make for certain the arrows are lining up on the right side..these bikes will run a cog off, I seriously don't think it is but I always double check anyway..
 
Wandering ignition timing could be caused by the vacuum advance bulb leaking or getting undo variations in vacuum from a leaking line. Could also be as Joe suggested sticking or tight advancer plate. The only affect that cams can cause to the ignition in the 1100 is if they change the amount of vacuum available. Since the carbs have recently been balanced and vacuum remains steady I think that can be ruled out.
 
slabghost":vu4jpgee said:
Wandering ignition timing could be caused by the vacuum advance bulb leaking or getting undo variations in vacuum from a leaking line. Could also be as Joe suggested sticking or tight advancer plate. The only affect that cams can cause to the ignition in the 1100 is if they change the amount of vacuum available. Since the carbs have recently been balanced and vacuum remains steady I think that can be ruled out.
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Cool... :grin: I'm learning, I hope he finds it, it will solve many problems for many guy's in the Goldwing World.. :grin: Pinpoint that sucker Dan everyone is counting on you..
 
dan filipi":mt0yr58h said:
littlebeaver":mt0yr58h said:
didn't you say your vacuum advance was leaking? Dan how much is it moving or traveling away? 1/4" or what? If this thing moved on me I sure didn't see it..Sounds like yours was pretty noticeable..
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Yes the vac advance is leaking.

The mark moves a good 3-4 inches while staying at the same rpm.
It moves just like if you were rotating a distributor, then back to it's mark then rotate it again over and over.
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Are you sure Joe's not under there turning something... :smilie_happy: just kidding Joe..
 
no beav im under mine doing that and it anit helping me right now ....i never have taking the plate off the back yet ....with the swingarm still there i cant get at one of the bolts yet .......ican tell you that it dose change the timing ....its my thinking that clockwise advances the timing as at one point i could tell it was avancing to much aqnd dropping off and counter clocwise seems to let it rev on up ......and when vacume line is off i can tell its off so i know its working some when hooked up
i might go ahead and take the swingarm off tomarrow to get the plate off and have clear view of whats going on when it running ...thats the only way for me to see what gose on...and for me to see if there is mechanical advance too ...i read somewhere that that is the case but my memory is not something to bet on :smilie_happy:

but until i can figure out my no2 cylinder not firing im not going to be much help here that my problem :mrgreen:
 
joedrum":9quab13c said:
no beav im under mine doing that and it anit helping me right now ....i never have taking the plate off the back yet ....with the swingarm still there i cant get at one of the bolts yet .......ican tell you that it dose change the timing ....its my thinking that clockwise advances the timing as at one point i could tell it was avancing to much aqnd dropping off and counter clocwise seems to let it rev on up ......and when vacume line is off i can tell its off so i know its working some when hooked up
i might go ahead and take the swingarm off tomarrow to get the plate off and have clear view of whats going on when it running ...thats the only way for me to see what gose on...and for me to see if there is mechanical advance too ...i read somewhere that that is the case but my memory is not something to bet on :smilie_happy:

but until i can figure out my no2 cylinder not firing im not going to be much help here that my problem :mrgreen:
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Joe the Mechanical advance lives under the pulse generator housing, Dan and I were discussing it in earlier post, after I removed the pulse generator cover and housing, be sure to note where the bolts come out from and no washer on lower left bolt..... I did my clean up on it..Wow so it will retard the timing by spinning it, right now I have mine set as it was before I did any mod. on it and the timing is right on..I'm not messing with it..That's great news though.. This stuff is so cool guy's..Oh.. so you know if you turn it left one full turn =1 full thread on the arm, left is lengthening the arm and right will shorten the arm..
 
Ok problem solved. Well not really a problem, it was my :sensored: up, sorry.

I made a video with it running on the timing light.
At about 10 seconds you can hear the engine speed up when I suck on the vac advance hose. Can't find my vacuum tool.
It's a bit hard to see but the mark does move so the advance is working.
The angle makes it look like the mark is "off" but straight on it's dead on the mark.


This is definitely more better than using that silly window.
 
dan filipi":109wfrlc said:
Ok problem solved. Well not really a problem, it was my :sensored: up, sorry.

I made a video with it running on the timing light.
At about 10 seconds you can hear the engine speed up when I suck on the vac advance hose. Can't find my vacuum tool.
It's a bit hard to see but the mark does move so the advance is working.
The angle makes it look like the mark is "off" but straight on it's dead on the mark.


This is definitely more better than using that silly window.
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That's some really good news Dan, glad it was something simple, I'm not getting a video, what do I do to see it..? :good:
 
Guy's here's what I'm after, being able to see the striaght line mark thru the site glass cover on the 3.000 rmp's as described in the manual, then transfering that mark once it's on target to the pulley case for future reference , this will totally blow everyone's freakin mind, if we can do this accurately..Is anyone understanding what I'm asking,, Let's say it's on target at the correct rpm's and they are holding steady, now run your timing light to the pulley and have a helper mark the case at the point the marks are on..it might be raised 3/4" or 1" I don't know but I'm aiming to find out, this would be making brand new timing marks but on your case instead of your site glass.. :grin:
 
i think i understand what your saying ...you will have to explain the 3000 rpm thing to me...is this where the the light is suppose to line up with the f marks on the crank ...heck i cant remember the proccess at the moment good day to you beav :mrgreen:
 
joedrum":26qqdb8o said:
i think i understand what your saying ...you will have to explain the 3000 rpm thing to me...is this where the the light is suppose to line up with the f marks on the crank ...heck i cant remember the proccess at the moment good day to you beav :mrgreen:
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F- marks should be at idle, 2# and #4 on the site glass hole, the striaght mark I'm refering to is at the 3.000 rpm range there about.. it's just a striaght line with no markings.. :grin:
 
thanks beav yea id say that is a good .....ive always thought that those extra marks on the pullys was what that was ...and would line up with a light either at idle or maybe 3000 rpm ....those marks have taken out a lot of wings on belt changes .....seems cazy to have marks that mean nothin at all ....but yes the sight glass thing is a joke as far as im concernd ....having that cap off when running make me rant everytime i forget to put it back in ....did it recently when i change the cams out on the 82 ....the only slip up i made :rant: :rant: :Doh2: :rant: :Awe: :mrgreen:
 
Just mark the block where the timing mark is at 3000-3500 rpm then reset the timing marks. Remark the cam pulley an equal distance.
 
dan filipi":1ajbx4pl said:
Good idea beav.

It should be easy enough to mark the pulleys as compared to where the crank marks are at without it even running.
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yeh, pretty cool stuff huh Dan..
 
slabghost":2qg7sd6x said:
Just mark the block where the timing mark is at 3000-3500 rpm then reset the timing marks. Remark the cam pulley an equal distance.
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Yes sir, sounds like a plan.. :grin: by George I think we are on to something here...
 

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