Ridden my 81 a few times since a partial restoration over the winter. Felt a faint clicking through the right foot peg. Pulled the boot back and while moving the wheel back and forth while in gear and noticed the coupler is moving slightly side to side on the output shaft. That small movement translates into a bigger (but still relatively minor) oscillation at the u-joint. I doubt this is normal but not sure. If not, is it likely the coupler is worn or the shaft? The shaft is hardened and is way more difficult to replace (engine has to come out) so I'm hoping it's the coupler. Anyone have any experience with this?
Worn output shaft/driveshaft coupler?
- Thread starter Driven
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there is no parts for this to replace ...if I was wooried something needed done id simply take the play out wit some kind of shim like deal ...even goo stuff might work but that be a last resort for me ...ive been to last resort before many times
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Both are hardened but I'd suspect the coupler first.
Not sure there is cause for concern but being able to feel it in the peg maybe there is?
I haven't checked if available new but I'd tear it down and check everything else out closely since a "clicking" is usually a U joint going out.
Not sure there is cause for concern but being able to feel it in the peg maybe there is?
I haven't checked if available new but I'd tear it down and check everything else out closely since a "clicking" is usually a U joint going out.
What I'm feeling may be a combination of both the coupler/shaft attachment and play in the u-joint. The u-joint is a little too far inside the swingarm to really see if it is worn. I'll have to take it apart. There are plenty of used parts around, just not sure those will be any better. There isn't any 'goo' that I know of that will remove slack in a part like that aside form a permanent product like an epoxy. *May* be able to put some thin shim stock in between the two components to remove the play. Not sure how that would hold up - probably not well.
splines will hold it and take torque if its just a little play ...but if its joint related play its history
they are unchangeable junk joint ...ive changed one its dam near impossible ...and I never found a compairible joint either had to use used stuff
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Driveline shops can do amazing things.
I've had joint yokes changed to accept larger u joints, splines lengthed. Even had an unavailable spline section cut out, a round stock fitted and splines recut.
It's all possible but it's going to cost.
I've had joint yokes changed to accept larger u joints, splines lengthed. Even had an unavailable spline section cut out, a round stock fitted and splines recut.
It's all possible but it's going to cost.
WARNING !! I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS !!!
I wrote this down for future reference in case I suffered a joint failure and it is suppose to apply to GL1200 driveshafts. Don't have any idea if it will apply to GL1100's, but thought it might be of interest. Freightliner Trucks, use a NEAPCO 1-0475 joint on the steering shaft and it was reported that with machining a circlip grove in the Honda yokes that it will replace the OEM joint. It was also reported that the bearing caps could be spot welded to keep them from migrating out if a machine shop is not available. I think the joint sells for about $17.00. I also read that a QUALITY GEAR 5-0400 QG joint would work.
Like I said I have not tried this but since OEM is not available it might be worth investigating if your in need of a joint repair. Happy trails.
I wrote this down for future reference in case I suffered a joint failure and it is suppose to apply to GL1200 driveshafts. Don't have any idea if it will apply to GL1100's, but thought it might be of interest. Freightliner Trucks, use a NEAPCO 1-0475 joint on the steering shaft and it was reported that with machining a circlip grove in the Honda yokes that it will replace the OEM joint. It was also reported that the bearing caps could be spot welded to keep them from migrating out if a machine shop is not available. I think the joint sells for about $17.00. I also read that a QUALITY GEAR 5-0400 QG joint would work.
Like I said I have not tried this but since OEM is not available it might be worth investigating if your in need of a joint repair. Happy trails.
How many miles on the '81? Also check the output shaft bearings - the one in the rear cover might be worn.
It has 52k. I plan to check that once i have the driveshaft out and can inspect the output shaft by itself. What I observed was definitely movement between the output shaft and driveshaft coupler. It wasn't a lot but I am sure it's out of spec. I am going to order a used shaft so it's available if that turns out to be the problem.
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I have had three shafts out and have not run into a worn U joint yet and all three shafts and U joints were pretty tight. I am going to have to suspect something else was wrong for the U joint to wear out and become sloppy at a little over 50K miles.
slabghost
Well-known member
Could be dry splines. Those need greased occasionally.
slabghost
Well-known member
No it won't eliminate slop but will cushion the movements and prevent further damage. Running without grease is the biggest cause of wear.
