1983 gl1100 running hot.

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rolson7560

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A few weeks ago I blew the right head gasket. I put new ones in both sides. Now the engine seems to run hot, (it started running hot before the head gasket changes), and I thought the overheating was due to the gaskets. If I'm moving at highway speeds it isn't too bad, (one bar up from normal), but if I have to idle for any length of time it creeps up to where I'm uncomfortable. It has overheated after the gaskets change. Then I put in a new water pump....no help. Thermostat was changed with gaskets. I currently have a switch running the fan motor at all times. The volt meter says I'm only charging at 11.8 to 12.5v, but it's starting all the time. It used to charge at 14.5- 14.8 at highway speeds.
I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
 
Taking into account everything you've already done, I think the next step would be to have the radiator cap tested or replaced and have the radiator renewed at a radiator shop. That's about all that's left. I am assuming you put the lower fairings back on, they will run a little warm without them in place.
 
When you say it is overheating is it spewing coolant into the overflow or out of the radiator cap? If not you may have a temp gauge fault. That said Mikes advice on the radiator and cap is 100%. I always like to be sure that they are in top condition after major engine work ( it would be a shame to see it all be wasted by a faulty cooling system) :head bang:
 
The reason the voltage would read low is because you are running the fan all the time. Agreed that the radiator has to be checked. But before you do that, check the little tube in the overflow tank. They tend to break off in the bottom of the tank allowing the overflow tank to fill, but then preventing the coolant from going back when the engine cools. Just a quick check.
 
I forgot to mention that I did replace the radiator cap with a STANT, 13 lbs, (don't remember the part # but I got the part # from a thread on here). There's also a new hose from the overflow to the radiator as well. This really has me buffalo'ed. Thank you for the suggestions!!!!
 
ttake the thermostat totally out ...if it gets hot then there something wrong that's not allowing circulation ...I always take the themostat out in times like this to see whats up ...I never have thermostat in new to me motor testing ...sould be able to ck flow everything with it out instantly ...at this point its what id do I wouldn't chance all that work
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=90317#p90317:1cjqv23s said:
rolson7560 » Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:28 pm[/url]":1cjqv23s]
I forgot to mention that I did replace the radiator cap with a STANT, 13 lbs, (don't remember the part # but I got the part # from a thread on here). There's also a new hose from the overflow to the radiator as well. This really has me buffalo'ed. Thank you for the suggestions!!!!
Click to expand...
Understood about the new hose, but it is the little piece inside of the tank that breaks off. Hose can be connected but no connection inside. Again, just a check for simple things.
 
I WONDERED IF i COULD DO THAT!!! I really don't see why the thermostat is there to begin with...I know why it's in a car engine with all the sensors, but this is an 83 ...not too many sensors...
 
Thermostat provides optimum operating temperature which should provide for most efficient combustion.
 
[url=https://www.forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=90244#p90244:1334fdf9 said:
Ansimp » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:41 pm[/url]":1334fdf9]
When you say it is overheating is it spewing coolant into the overflow or out of the radiator cap? If not you may have a temp gauge fault. That said Mikes advice on the radiator and cap is 100%. I always like to be sure that they are in top condition after major engine work ( it would be a shame to see it all be wasted by a faulty cooling system) :head bang:
Click to expand...
 
I have a problem with my 81 gl1100. the radiator is spewing hot steam out the over flow tube. I replaced the thermostat ,radiator cap , honda antifreeze. tested the thermostat switch in the hot oil test and it turned on , I pulled the fan and tested it with a 12 volt battery and it ran good. next new hoses and clamps . the heat guage moves up about 3/4 to hot and drops when thermostat opens then the boiling and steam comes blowing out the overflow tube.
hope one of you can help me .
thanks.
sonny <///><
 
Could be a head gasket, but could still be a water pump. Drain the antifreeze, and remove the lower hose and cover so you can wiggle the water pump. Shouldn't be much if any movement. If that's good, a leak down test might show the air moving from the combustion chamber to the cooling system. It will tell you which side. Your description makes me think it just isn't moving water around.
 
hmmmm sounds like the temp rises to high before thermostat opens one ..but thins is misleading as gauges are so far off and no way to know ... start it on centerstand ..have box fan there blowing on radiator ..cap off ..and see what happens .. will it idle and stay cool ..or will it start spewing water and bubble out .. you cant learn a lot here ....
 
I do have a shop fan I can try your test. I did all the obvious replacement of parts but did not try with radiiator cap off. I am hoping it's not a blown head gasket. what would be a way to test for a head gasket ?
thanks for your input.
sonny <///><
 
https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1& ... e%20tester
click on the link unless yo have one or if you can borrow a cooling system pressure tester(like you would use to test a rad cap) put it on the rad fill neck and start it, if the pressure starts to climb right away, more than likley is a head gasket. If you are going to fix your toys this is a great tool to have! (cheap on ebag too)(or test the cooling sys for exh gas, more expensive) Just my opinion :ahem:
 
to ne if it starts to act like it has pressure spewing out in a no pressure environment ... it is a head gasket check ...especially if it bubbles some with air and releases heat .. that indicates notor leaking into radiator ... if it slight enough it can stop the pump from putting water in motor or circulating and be hard to find ..here once on a 1200 it was just a slight crack in the air passage on a 1200 .. sortof sour me personally on 1200 heads as a good thing ...dan can speak of it he the one that actually worked on this bike
 
I did the fan test with rad cap off. I could see the pump surge as I reved it but it soon started to steam up and spit out antifreez. still the fan on the bike nevers comes on and the heated oil test showed the switch was good. Boy I hate to pull the heads , just yesterday replaced the belts. and I don't get around as good as I once did , I feel 29 but in a short time I feel 72 again, ha ha .
Thanks again for your help.
Sonny <///><
 

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