2 issues I could use help with.

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seth0941

seth0941

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Okay, so my new 2 me 79 GL1000 was charging at over 16V so I replaced the regulator. Now when I start the bike it is charging at 13V but the issue is... the longer ir runs the higher it charges. After about 15 min it is charging at 16V again. The regulator is only warm to the touch but the rectifier is hot to the touch. Could the rectifier be causing this?

The second issue is after the bike worms up and I shut it off then re start it after letting it sit for about 5 min. there is a puff of gray smoke out of one side. Do the heads on this bike have water jackets and could this be a bad head gasket?
 
the rectifier could be bad to but go in the left side cover and check the stator wires and connector there i might be melted some burn looking and causeing torouble for rectifier ...it might be solid wired there too ..if so it might need ckecking and redone do this next get good connection from stator to retifier....then try that
 
Yes the heads have water jackets but if the smoke doesn't smell sweet it isn't likely the head gasket. It could be a carb out of adjustment.
 
I was out there playing with it again, at 1000 RPM it is charging at 14.9V at 3000 RPM it is at 16V.. would the rectifier cause this? I thought all it did was convert from AC to DC.


As for the smoke, the bike had 10 year old gas in it. I was told that it had only been sitting for 6 months but I know now that is a lie. The last time it was on the road was 2002. Is there a good "how to" on a carb rebuild?
 
what makes you want to rebuild the carbs? From what you've said it idles and revs so maybe fresh gas and some ATF will clean them.
 
slabghost":2nta433i said:
what makes you want to rebuild the carbs? From what you've said it idles and revs so maybe fresh gas and some ATF will clean them.
Click to expand...

Yes, it idles and revs but it is also popping and missing. I have yet to ride the bike and all the work being done is with the bike on a jack as the tires are not on it.
 
Might need to pull the carb rack and clean them. There are some great threads explaining how. I really doubt you need a rebuild kit or any parts at all.
 
slabghost":314vnj4x said:
Might need to pull the carb rack and clean them. There are some great threads explaining how. I really doubt you need a rebuild kit or any parts at all.
Click to expand...

I found one, thank you. I also found a "how to" on testing the regulator and the rectifier. I will do the checks tonight and post updates.
 
seth it sounds to me if the bike is that tore apart ...thats like the way i do things ...bike on blocks wheelless....it sounds a lot like weak spark ...you sould think about putting in a relay on the ignition ...it will deliver better spark ....i bet it runs better some ...and then if there still running problems ..it time to focas on carbs ...is what i think
 
How does the inside of the tank look? 10 year-old gas probably left some nasty stuff in there, and also the lines, filter, pump and carbs. Get it all nice and clean and you'll see a big difference.

Have you pulled the plugs? You should also replace the timing belts - if you haven't already! And like Joedrum said, anything you can do to improve the spark is well worth the effort.

Coolant in the combustion chamber makes steam - white smoke. Oil will usually be blue, and excess gas will be gray to black. Be sure to turn off the fuel petcock when the bike's not running.

Sounds like you're makin' good progress! Ain't it fun?!?!
 
How does the voltage look when you run the bike with the lights ON ? The rectifier converts the AC into DC current - without this it can not charge but still show correct voltage figures. If faulty the bike will NOT charge battery and could cause the battery to loose its charge overnight and gives symptoms of flat or bad battery.

You say - "The regulator is only warm to the touch but the rectifier is hot to the touch. Could the rectifier be causing this?" - the reg/rectifier is a combined unit. Are you sure you are touching the correct components?

It is the job of the regulator to control the output voltage .This works by opening a gate to allow voltage to drain to earth at a predetermined level. What do you use to display the voltage ? - separate multimeter or the voltage gauge on the bike? It is possible that your meter might be faulty and not a problem with the bike itself.
If the regulator was bad you could boil the battery dry and blow bulbs . These generators produce an unregulated voltage in excess of 30v .
The volt meter on my bike displays 15 volts with the lights off and 13.5 with lights on at 2 thou plus engine speed.
I would be inclined to check all earthing points for good integrity and look at the connectors on the reg/rectifier. These should give you a better chance of a correct reading so long as your battery is in good order.

Mine also generates a puff of grey smoke but only after short runs and when the weather is damp == condensation caused by the weather especially when parked overnight and not "burning" off with engine heat. After a longish run of ten miles or so it is no problem.
A slight internal weep from a head gasket can give the symptoms you describe but the water level in your radiator would fall as the fluid is consumed by the combustion process - sweet smelling fumes are indicative of anti-freeze being burnt but only if the strength of anti-freeze is correct . Too little anti-freeze in the water would not give the characteristic smell but would still give grey or white smoke - this is simply steam as the water boils out. The system might also be pressurized causing the overflow bottle level to rise and possibly spill out.

Just a thought - hope it helps.
 
David Mantle":3gbs3kwq said:
... the reg/rectifier is a combined unit.
Click to expand...

Dave, the 1000's have a seperated regulator and rectifier. Two individual pieces.
 
But I was testing it with the fairing removed witch means that I had no lights up front on. I will re-test with the lights on and update. Also... the cylinder that is missing is number 4. After double checking it is getting no fuel.
 
Well, I drained my coolant and this is what it looked like. I also drained the oil and it was free on contaminants.

PICT0133_zps210300d4.jpg
 
Wow, that looks bad :evil: , it looks like the is oil mix in the coolant, what I don't get is, in some parts the coolant is green and flooting on tthe top in puddles. I'm shure someone will know what's going on.
 

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