82 gl1100 carb problem

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jpwinger

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Help!!!!!! pulled carb's to clean #3 slow speed jet carb was not heating up as fast as other carb's. when feeling exaust header to check #3 carb stayed cool a lot longer than other carb's. jet needed cleaning small hole's were pluged. also slide needed polished. polished other 3 slides . I had put new after market idle jets in last fall and the carb tool did not fit them right so was not sure of initial setting sooooo I reset them to three turns out. installed carb's. It ran very bad !!!!!!! loud carb knock!!!!! Had to use choke just to keeo it runing at 2000 rpm could not even set to idle. Soooo repulled carbs changed idle jet's to 31/2 turns reinstalled no change!!!!! checked with sink gagues carbs were close . Oh carbs are 82 gl1100 slow speed jet is removable to clean. What in the world did I do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Need ideas. Bike ran well before, started very good , no carb knock Just #3 carb needed cleaned. Now runs like a basket case.
 
reset them to two turns out and in further while at idle to highest rpm at each carb. Do this twice as each carb affects the others.
 
Thanks slabghost I will try tomorrow. When running ok before my medaling with carbs I think idle screws were out a lot more than two turns. I have to take carbs out to change setting's But will try two turns out then go in from there Wish my carb tool would work I have tryed to modify it to work but it hasn"t worked yet . carbs are from 82 gl110 I have read that the setting is three turns out but with the after market needle valve's it may be different Thank so much for the FAST REPLY
 
a really short tiny screwdriver and some gyrations can adjust them in place. Maybe a heavy nail shortened and hammered flat will work for you. Out is richer in is leaner mixture.
 
Thanks again for the reply. Do I need a leaner setting with have to run with choke on? Wish my 20.00 dollar screwdriver worked better, it gets hot down there . Just got my 77 gl000 out of strorage so I have something to ride. LOL
 
jpwinger":2e8gl970 said:
Help!!!!!! pulled carb's to clean #3 slow speed jet carb was not heating up as fast as other carb's. when feeling exaust header to check #3 carb stayed cool a lot longer than other carb's. jet needed cleaning small hole's were pluged. also slide needed polished. polished other 3 slides . I had put new after market idle jets in last fall and the carb tool did not fit them right so was not sure of initial setting sooooo I reset them to three turns out. installed carb's. It ran very bad !!!!!!! loud carb knock!!!!! Had to use choke just to keeo it runing at 2000 rpm could not even set to idle. Soooo repulled carbs changed idle jet's to 31/2 turns reinstalled no change!!!!! checked with sink gagues carbs were close . Oh carbs are 82 gl1100 slow speed jet is removable to clean. What in the world did I do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Need ideas. Bike ran well before, started very good , no carb knock Just #3 carb needed cleaned. Now runs like a basket case.
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First of all I'm new here so take anything I say with a grain of salt. I like old Honda's and once and a while I will get one some PO has given up on and try to work "black magic" on the source of the problem. Usually I find with these old bikes there have been many hands into the patient. Once I see evidence of this I expect to find anything and try not to be surprised. One thing in almost all cased SOMEONE has messed SOMETHING up and one of the common things involves the low jet/emulsifying tube. At this point I can only speak to the VB's on CX's but will be into a GL1100 soon and suspect there will not be that much difference. I think on Pre 82's that tube/jet is pressed in and has to be removed with a screw extractor where 83 and later can be screwed out as in your case. What I have found is that in those that are trouble to get out people just soak or clean the Carb as best they can and re-assemble. Then get disappointed when it won't run much better. In the case of the ones that can be removed easily they still forget them OR run something through the orifice that damages the orifice. This will lead to problems below 5,000 RPM's and at idle as the slow jet is a contributor through out the entire range and controlling at idle. Believe me, I have tried to find a short cut and clean the beJesus out of a carb body in an ultrasonic cleaner for hours leaving the jet in place. Only to pull the jet and find it still filthy and clogged. The ONLY way to be sure is to pull the jet, clean it independently and run the PROPER size mini drill bit through each orifice. ONLY then can you be sure that will not be a problem in the smooth operation through the entire power band. Enough about the low jet.

You mentioned you replaced the idle mixture screws. Why? Were they stuck in place? Did you have to force one out somehow? Did one come out with the tip missing? if so where is the missing tip? Is the Oring, Spring and washer in the proper place of in place at all? Just a few things that come to mind when I hear a problem like this. Of course it could still be 20 other things. Also don't know how much experience you have in this type work either. I repeat, I am NOT an expert but just a half decent wrench with time on my hands and lately have been playing around with Old Honda carbs. If I can help or contribute in any way I will be glad to. If I'm annoying just tell me and I can back down a notch or 2 :mischief:
 
Changed to 82 carbs because 80 carbs were froze when I got bike sat for 14 years. Put after market carb kits in (not randaks!!!!) Couldn't get it to run right sooo tryed to change air setting's one of those was froze and broke off. Found 82 parts bike that hadn't set as long. Air screwas were ok .New kits came with new screws so I used them. Did not realize that I could just cut tab to adjust on 82 carbs. Changed new carb kits to 82 carbs. Had spark knock sinked and that became much better. Carb #3 heated up much slower than others and seemed to cut out at idle. Slow speed jet tiny holes were dirty so cleaned and slid was sticking, polished. then ckecked other slids and polished them. That's when Things went south. Bike ran well and started on first push on starter button. Only thing I really change was the air setting.
 
jpwinger":11va47i0 said:
Thanks again for the reply. Do I need a leaner setting with have to run with choke on? Wish my 20.00 dollar screwdriver worked better, it gets hot down there . Just got my 77 gl000 out of strorage so I have something to ride. LOL
Click to expand...
These carbs do not actually have a choke. They have an enrichening circuit. 90% of carbs start and run at at 2 1/2 turns out. You can try 4 and adjust from there. I know it's no help at this point but in future carb work. Before you remove mixture screws turn them in until lightly seated counting how many turns. Note the turns so you can install again at the same setting. It would seem to me now you do need richer and not leaner setting. I apologize for my misunderstanding.
 
Hold up a sec, the 1100 carbs DO have a butterfly choke.
The 1200 carbs are the ones with enricheners.

It sounds to me like the problem is your not getting enough gas at idle because the choke butterfly is making it pull in more gas.
From my own experience and those of others I find the pilot jets have very little to do with how it idles as long as all of them are turned out at least 2 turns.
They are more for fine tuning each carbs idle mixture but only if it is idling ok to begin with can they be fine tuned.

It sounds to me like the problem here is your idle jets are not letting enough gas through.
Restrictions in the idle circuits, not enough fuel in the float bowls will cause this too.

I'd triple check the idle circuits are completely clear and the float settings are correct.
Then on the bench, rig a container of gas or a fuel pump to fill them and compare the actual level of fuel in the bowls. The level should be just below the top of the bowls approx. an 1/8 inch.
 
Thanks again for the replys When having carbs off the first time I checked slow and high jets in carbs they are clean slids are polished. Could floats be out of wack during reinstalling carbs. and any sugestions on what tool to adjust on bike when running. Carb tool that I have just won't fit. I have to take off to change inital setting. I have a test tank how do you check level in carb bowls. Checked float needles they seemed to work ok.
 
For adjusting the pilot jets I use this one

fyVMtP8A.jpg


Yes it do get hot. laying a wet rag on the engine helps

With the carbs sitting flat on the bench, hook up your test tank with enough hose to raise it at least 3 feet above the carbs and let them fill.
I use an electric 3 lb fuel pump to be sure enough pressure is there to mimic what will actually happen when the carbs are on the bike.
Another way is use the bike's mechanical pump after removing all the spark plugs then crank it for 30 seconds or so, let it sit for a few minutes then crank again for 30 seconds.

Now once the bowls are full, remove the bowl screws one bowl at a time without spilling gas.
This is a bit of a trick.
Another way to check how much gas there is in the bowls is by "screwing in" clear plastic tubing into the bowl drain screws, I don't remember what size the tube has to be but with the tube screwed in you raise the tube along side the bowl, the fuel level in the tube will be the same as in the bowl.
 
Just a thought will the gas tank slid back 1/4/to/1/2 inch it would help alot if floats are hanging up during installation. Again thanks for the replys.
 
pulled carbs again!! reset mixture screws two turns out rechecked all jets and slids rechecked floats and screens and needle's all seemed fine. When I pulled carbs I sat them on bench and drained each carb to check level of gas all had 11/2 oz in bowls. Is there any thing else I should check. All passages seem clear. Thanks for all the help. Just goes to show don"t try to fix what was not broke. Mixture screws.!!!! Thanks again for all the replys
 
Well I wasn't entirely wrong. My manual says to set them at 2 turns out but doesn't specify if they are the 1000 or 1100 carbs. You might want to try at 2 1/2 turns out and adjust from there. Okay in the supplement for 1100's start setting for the mix screws is 1 1/4 turns out. Once you get it running and warmed up you adjust each to the highest rpm possible. Resetting idle to 950 rpm after each adjustment. Go through all four carbs at least twice as each carb affects the other. From the manual this time not my part time memory.
 
Thanks slabghost I will give it a try. at two turns I've tryed 3,21/2 now 2 turns and will work on carb tool some more Thanks again
 
I don't know how much gas should be in the bowls but I do know the gas level needs to be just below the bowl edge.

I think chasing the mixture needles as the problem it aint but I've been wrong before.
I'd bet it's either too low gas level in the bowls or the clogs in idle circuits in one or more carbs but also make sure your getting enough fuel supply from the fuel pump. The pump pressure and volume spec are in the manuals.
 

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