ballast resistor

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Yes what exactly is the purpose of a ballast resistor.

We know it lowers the voltage but specifically WHY is that needed.
Why do the earlier models not use a ballast resistor.

Good topic for discussion.
 
early 1000s do have ballist resistors on them stock ....i think its mostly over thinking the ignition system making over complicated ...its only when useing dyna ignition and coils that 1000s dont have a ballist resistor ...ballist resistor they trap heat and take it away ....other wise it would be heating the wires and cause things to get to hot....but when parts are matched perfect or better they can operate without ballist and dont heat up bad...
theres no doutb in my mind about how better the ignition system can be made to be ....im no master of this stuff this is just info ive pic up ....heck im having a extremely rough go on the the lights on the 77 :read: :builder: :cheeky: :mrgreen:
 
My understanding is the resistor heats up because its lowering the voltage which consiquently increases the current that has to pass through it.

I had a dodge van with one.
The ign switch would bypass it on start to give it full voltage, I presume to provide a hotter spark OR because the starter load while cranking will reduce the available voltage quite a bit.

Still, why would the system not simply be designed to run on a full 12 volts instead of lowering the voltage.
 
dan filipi":sq13kx57 said:
The ign switch would bypass it on start to give it full voltage, I presume to provide a hotter spark OR because the starter load while cranking will reduce the available voltage quite a bit.
Click to expand...
That's exactly why...to give full batt voltage to the coil while cranking, then lower the voltage while running. On older systems with points, full batt voltage thru the points would burn them much quicker. Dropping the voltage allowed them to survive longer, but still work just fine. Some cars used a resistor wire instead of a resistor block, to do the same thing. Lowering the voltage on the coils keeps the heat down, and prolongs the life of the coil(s). Most electronic ignitions can live with full batt voltage, but not all of them can.
 
AApple":2v2ilxog said:
dan filipi":2v2ilxog said:
The ign switch would bypass it on start to give it full voltage, I presume to provide a hotter spark OR because the starter load while cranking will reduce the available voltage quite a bit.
Click to expand...
That's exactly why...to give full batt voltage to the coil while cranking, then lower the voltage while running. On older systems with points, full batt voltage thru the points would burn them much quicker. Dropping the voltage allowed them to survive longer, but still work just fine. Some cars used a resistor wire instead of a resistor block, to do the same thing. Lowering the voltage on the coils keeps the heat down, and prolongs the life of the coil(s). Most electronic ignitions can live with full batt voltage, but not all of them can.
Click to expand...
well said! :thanks:
 
Thanks for the reply. I think I understand now. But is ok to use 82 coi.ls on a 80 gl1100. Or will I have a weaker spark.
 
AApple":574sggaz said:
[snip]......... On older systems with points, full batt voltage thru the points would burn them much quicker. Dropping the voltage allowed them to survive longer, but still work just fine......
Click to expand...

So looking at the 80-81 that do not use a ballast resistor........
It seems like these are the only years that have the problems with the ignitors melting.

What I understand the ignitor does is takes the place of points, it is basically a ON/OFF switch like the points.
If you were to take away the resistor on a points system the life would be greatly reduce so with that in mind are we not seeing the same problem with the ignitors?

If this is true then adding a resistor on these years should prevent the melt down.
 
dan filipi":20srz31y said:
AApple":20srz31y said:
[snip]......... On older systems with points, full batt voltage thru the points would burn them much quicker. Dropping the voltage allowed them to survive longer, but still work just fine......
Click to expand...

So looking at the 80-81 that do not use a ballast resistor........
It seems like these are the only years that have the problems with the ignitors melting.

What I understand the ignitor does is takes the place of points, it is basically a ON/OFF switch like the points.
If you were to take away the resistor on a points system the life would be greatly reduce so with that in mind are we not seeing the same problem with the ignitors?

If this is true then adding a resistor on these years should prevent the melt down.
Click to expand...
I wish my '82 coils with the ballast resistor were in better shape.....the wires are split and corroded on the resistor. The other side is.....should I just consider myself lucky that my '81 unit has not melted yet with the '83 engine?
 
im not sure gerry it seems that the resistor is in the spark units and not in the unit on the back of the motor if this proves to be the case then you have a ballist of some sort working id say ....i think when the resistor in the spark units gose bad or weak this is why the spark units start to melt .....anyway thats what im thinking now ....and the rear ignition unit is not a factor ...like i was thinking before ....but still i have no comfromation on this ....just what im thinking is going on ...as long as the wiring and and everything in that package is right the motor and rear ignition is fine seemingly
 
I can't claim to know anything about the ignition systems on the Goldwings, but, if Joe says the resistor is basically part of, or made into the spark units/ignitors, then that could explain WHY they have an issue with melting. A dropping resistor gets pretty dadgum hot in operation, so, if it IS part of the unit, it would certainly be easy to see why they would melt. Perhaps this factor led to a change in the design for other year models, to alleviate the problem? :headscratch:
 
I would be very surprised if a resistor is built into the ignitors since the ignitor has no sort of heat sink like a regulator or a ballast resistor ceramic has.
It has an aluminum shell but I don't think that would be sufficient.
Someone needs to dissect one of these overheated ignitors to find the root cause.
 
when I changed to the 82 coils I also changed to the 82 ignitor's. The 80 ignitor's were about half mealted but were still working there was no change in how it ran. Iam going to try refilling ignitors with jb weld or should i try something else. The 80 coil must still be good.
 

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