Boy, Did I Screw Up !!

[IBAJIM]

I recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires with those nice yellow silicon wires. I also checked the resistance of the spark plug caps, primary & secondary coil resistance - all good.

After finishing the job and starting up the bike, it was back-firing ( from both sides ) at idle. Above 1200, it ran w/o back-firing. I had good spark at all cylinders by checking with my clamp-on timing light. By pulling each spark plug cap, it looks like cylinders 2 & 3 are the problem.

I just read the post about " Right cylinders missing at WOT " and realized what the problem is !!! I have the left coil connected to cylinders 2 & 4 and the right coil connected to cylinders 1 & 3 !!!

Me Bad, VERY Bad !! :smilie_happy: Left coil should go to Cylinders 1 & 2 and right coil to cylinders 3 & 4 . I didn't notice the connections when I removed the coil assembly and just ASSUMED the connection was the same as on my ST1100 - each coil connects to the two cylinders on the same side of the engine on the ST1100.

So if anyone would like to know the symptom for what happens when the coil wires are mis-connected, it's back-firing at idle from both sides.

I'm learning .......... :salute:

 

[joedrum]

im glad you came through that ok .... your lucky

 

[brianinpa]

That is something that you won't do again. Experience teaches better than any book does.

 

[Omega Man]

Was there a noticeable improvement with the new plug wires?

 

[dan filipi]

I did that once. Motor is NOT happy. Nope, notatall.

Glad you got it sorted out.

 

[IBAJIM]

Got the wires switched back to the proper positions. She idles and runs great now. The wires may have helped some. I bought the yellow silicon 7mm ( copper core ) by the foot from my local Parts Plus auto parts store. The warehouse has a bulk spool.

So, since getting the bike about 6 weeks ago I have :

Checked valve clearances ( basically were all fine )
Replaced spark plugs and wires.
Drained and Replaced coolant & replaced radiator cap.
Replaced fuel filter.
Checked air cleaner - looked new.

Replaced stock R&R with FET series type from a 2010 CB1000rr. The three wire white connector from the stator was partially melted and connections were bad. I'm surprised it was charging at all. I made solder connections from the original stator wires to the wires running to the new R&R.

Installed a 40 Amp relay to re-route the load current from the battery to the fuse block around the ignition switch. No load current now through the ignition switch now and there is a much heavier wire from the battery feeding the fuse block.

Installed LED bulbs in the fairing for the running & turn signals. Installed a LED flasher.

Still need to change the oil & filter and rebuild all calipers. I think they are sticking - the bike stops poorly.

 

[weightlifter99]

My rear brake is dragging so bad on my oldwing that once heated up and come to a stop...I cannot physically move the bike forward or backward. I am sure it is the rear as If I force drive the bike I have no steering issues at all making me think the rear is the culprit.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh ...that very common problem on a bike that has sat .. several things can cause this ...most times is the piston is sticky and while it heats up brakes fluid heats up and cause addition pressure especially if return hole is pluged up causing it to grab even harder

 

[joedrum]

id take off caliper with line and all still hooked up and using a c clamp or something and work the thing back and forth ..using c clamp to move the piston back in .. this useally fixes this and clears return hole too

 

[weightlifter99]

Really...c clamp and push piston on caliper back in and then work brake lever down and prolly would help to bleed system also you think?

 

[Ansimp]

IBAJIM » Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:55 am[/url]":248fnfqf]
Got the wires switched back to the proper positions. She idles and runs great now. The wires may have helped some. I bought the yellow silicon 7mm ( copper core ) by the foot from my local Parts Plus auto parts store. The warehouse has a bulk spool.

So, since getting the bike about 6 weeks ago I have :

Checked valve clearances ( basically were all fine )
Replaced spark plugs and wires.
Drained and Replaced coolant & replaced radiator cap.
Replaced fuel filter.
Checked air cleaner - looked new.

Replaced stock R&R with FET series type from a 2010 CB1000rr. The three wire white connector from the stator was partially melted and connections were bad. I'm surprised it was charging at all. I made solder connections from the original stator wires to the wires running to the new R&R.

Installed a 40 Amp relay to re-route the load current from the battery to the fuse block around the ignition switch. No load current now through the ignition switch now and there is a much heavier wire from the battery feeding the fuse block.

Installed LED bulbs in the fairing for the running & turn signals. Installed a LED flasher.

Still need to change the oil & filter and rebuild all calipers. I think they are sticking - the bike stops poorly.

Great work especially bypassing the load on the ignition switch and Mofset rr upgrade :good:
I was going to use LEDs in the flasher/running lights but have not been able to find bright enough ones for the turn signals/flasher. I also figured as they are intermittently used not much of a current savings. As I have changed 6 bulbs in the Vetter top box and the original stop/tail light I am not too concerned. Also use a 35w hid which further reduced the current draw until I installed the 2 new running/fog LEDs on the crash bars which draw 2.8 amps

Lights On

• Ansimp
• Jun 12, 2014

 

[IBAJIM]

Great work especially bypassing the load on the ignition switch and Mofset rr upgrade :good:
I was going to use LEDs in the flasher/running lights but have not been able to find bright enough ones for the turn signals/flasher. I also figured as they are intermittently used not much of a current savings. As I have changed 6 bulbs in the Vetter top box and the original stop/tail light I am not too concerned. Also use a 35w hid which further reduced the current draw until I installed the 2 new running/fog LEDs on the crash bars which draw 2.8 amps

Lights On

• Ansimp
• Jun 12, 2014

[/quote]

Those are nice LED lights mounted on the crash bars. Where did you get them ??

 

[Ansimp]

This topic has some information on the second page
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5767&p=121022&hilit=%5Balbum%5D23239%5B%2Falbum%5D#p121105
I have purchased a spot version from eBay that was cheaper than my supplier but the lens quality/ finish doesn't look as good. When I have a chance I am going to try one flood (oncoming traffic side) and the new spot beam to compare.