Calibrate and sync carbs after rebuild....

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
wallyworld136

wallyworld136

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Location
San Antonio, Texas
The pilot screws I measured before breakdown and reset with new to 2.25 turns as before. Tried the Alley Kat method of rough sync by setting butterflies with wire gap... THEN made a manometer with 20 foot of tubing, yardstick, plastic ties and ATF fluid hooked to 2 carbs at a time. Carb 1 to carb 3 adj/sync, carb 2 to 4 sync, then 4 to 3 adj which didn't pan out well yet because #4 carb had better vacuum than #3 so tried to rough it, ride, rough it some more but to no excellent avail.

I know this much that at beginning seemed it was running rich since I replace Air Cutoff diaphrams and Accelerator pump diaphram, and needle jet adj screws and cleaned thoroughly, rebuild kits, etc. I know she has to run some to get broke back in but Mid to High rev area bogs and is my feeling that my cheap arse-nalled self need to get the 4 vac guage synchronizer rig and do it right. Miss her running great up to 6 months ago when I had back surgery and air cutoff/accelerator pump diaphrams give up ghost same time. Moral of this story, beware of sympathy surgery needs of bike when we go under knife???? Both us ol buzzards need retuning of our new parts....WHat you'all thinkum??
 
Sorry to hear about your back surgery but glad your getting back into the game!

Those darn floats can be VERY tricky to get right. Fuel level too low it will run lean, too high it'll be rich. Off by just 1-2 mm will do it.

Syncing usually affects rpms below 3000. Since yours is bogging above that I suspect something else going on, float heights, vac leak. Could also be sticking slides, did they "bounce" on the springs easily when put together upside down and move in and out of the bores easily?
 
Yes they seem to, at least I noticed they seemed to move better than I thought they could. When I rode day before yest. It would wind up after I twisted off handle and waited. But didn't seem road worthy in any respect. And no I did not recalib my floats.
 
Float adjustment should be done any time a carb is opened.
Explain in more detail how it's running from the time you first choke it to start, warm up and once out on the road.
Could be something else is going wrong.
 
Cranks and runs alright. Idle can drop sometimes when touch Idle screw to adj (as if it pushes down to seat past its assume touch off). The adj on side of Carb 4, I havent found the balance point vacuum wise. 4 have much more vacuum than 3.

At idle and warmed up, engine seems to romp up smoothly without load. But on road 2200 rpm up area is the bog. (I know she is not sync. -ed right.)

PS..Another note: Installed a modified fan switch that makes cooling fan come on earlier. Found on ebay last year and it seems to really help in this warmer climate.

W
 
UPDATE:Carb sync tool I have acquired use of. Hooked up cyls in 1234 sequence 1, 3 are showing sync to each other at 8 on vac guages. 2, 4 (left side) are both @ 18-19. My question: Have I lost my head gasket on Right side????
 
no theres a cross over adjustment to equal vacum from side to side and from front to back on both sides at carb linkage,adjust the side to side linkage to more even out vacum then even out 2 and 4 and keep tinkering till you got it the best all the way around
 
Thanks for responding. I have adjusted the Carb 4 screw for side to side sync. But it is not making changes. Still have a 10 (in/Hg) out of 30 diff between 2 sides. At least I know my syncs of 1,3 and 2,4 are right on. I did those with a home made manometer (20 ft. of 5/16 clear tubing, yardstick, plastic ties and ATF fluid). It worked very well.
 
When adjusting the carb 4 screw to balance left and right, be sure the rack is loose. Mine were bound up and I found that after I adjusted the screw, I needed to manually move them to actually get the adjustment. (Needed serious cleaning and lubrication.) Are you readjusting your idle screw as you set them? I would back out the 2&4 screws and get the vacuum down first, reset the idle and start working back from #3.
 

Latest posts

Top