Carburetor Overhaul, GL1100

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Roady":3d57kwwi said:
So, how does a "shadetree" mechanic verify proper flow?

And please note that I said "aftermarket" jets are questionable. Meaning that OEM jets and needles that were made for that specific model of carb are acceptable replacements. Just be prepared to pony up some serious cash to acquire them.

I just want to stress that the bag-o-jets that come with most of the aftermarket carb kits are crap.

Those came with my bike when I bought it. Advertised as 4 complete carb kits. I got the Randakk kit and ended up replacing only the pilot needles because one of them was bent. I've got the rest of the stuff that was in the bags but most of it doesn't look anything like the brass that I cleaned up and put back in.

And my carbs feed the mix just fine. At the Randakk rally last year I consistently achieved the best mileage figure of any of the bikes there.
Click to expand...
if you really get picky, take and polish the entire intake system including intake elbows, then you will be getting the best fuel flow possibile, remember, glass is slicker than concrete. my 2 cents (and I cant even get mine to idle right)haha!
 
Roady":yue0558d said:
Yeah, the Randakk kit for the 1100 is about $200. Considering what you get, it's a bargain. The four air cutoff valves are $25 a piece and the bowl gaskets run about $10 each. It adds up quick when you try to put it together yourself.

You can get a decent set of mercury sticks for around $100. Or 4 vac. gauge sets run about $50.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for the Randakk Kit Bargain. I rebuilt my carbs using Roady's instructions, but I thought I would save some cash buying the entire rebuild kit piece by piece. I saved money (still bought Randakk's Plenum gasket) until I had to replace all of the air cut-offs. That put me over what I would have spent on the Randakk kit.

I did buy a set of vacuum guages from ebay for about $60 shipped to the house. There are, what I think (and used rather successfully), some very good instructions (with pics) on how to sync your carbs using 4 vacuum guages here:

https://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=81&sid=bacfde33165855e5d5d579efedcf57c5
 
a few notes from newbie just finishing carb rebuild w/randakks kit-bike ran so so for couple of months-fighting junk from tank and fuel pump(it has a filter inside that can become clogged). after second tear down of carb, i found a clogged jet. do not know exact tech description of item, but it is a small brass pin coming down into throttle body. i was unaware that it has small hole in rear. it was plugged, finally sprayed pb into it and cleared it right up. i used a rubber bulb out of an ear wax removal kit, filled it with paint thinner, put it into intake side and forced liquid through jet to see it was clear. bike now runs like new.also had issue with vacuum tubes sticking and crud in grooves around top. would suggest a little extra attention to these. last one-when installing the diaphrams in air valve and accelerator, they need to be pushed into groove in body before putting on cover. happy wrenching
 
Roady: Great read on the overhaul procedure. You mentioned that the 1980 and 1981 idle jets are not removable. I am in the process of rebuilding my 1980 carbs, and they are removable. Possibility that I might have a different year set of carbs?
 
Either a different year or someone "retrofit" them. There is a procedure online somewhere about tapping then out. I personally don't go for it but some swear by it.

You're a lucky dog.
 
This is the second attempt at going through these carbs in a years time. They are off of a 1980 parts bike, a standard with fairly low miles. I bought Randaks kit this time, and glad I did. It seems to keep building up a (gunk) inside the fuel bowls that ends up plugging one or more of the idle jets. I have treated the fuel tank so I know it is clean, installed a new fuel pump and filter - just cannot figure out how this is getting past the screens at the needle and seats, any ideas?
 
Dano":2vsuxavp said:
This is the second attempt at going through these carbs in a years time. They are off of a 1980 parts bike, a standard with fairly low miles. I bought Randaks kit this time, and glad I did. It seems to keep building up a (gunk) inside the fuel bowls that ends up plugging one or more of the idle jets. I have treated the fuel tank so I know it is clean, installed a new fuel pump and filter - just cannot figure out how this is getting past the screens at the needle and seats, any ideas?
Click to expand...
What type of gunk? Color of the gunk? It sounds like water vapor mixed with the gas (doesn't take much water to make ethanol based gas to gel). How long does the bike sit between running? Are you using a gas additive or stabilizer?
 
I put in new fuel lines when I changed the pump, I think I will add a second filter after the pump. I am sure there is condensation because I am in the process of putting the bike back together after an overhaul of everything and paint, so I have not been able to get it on the road as of yet.
 
dano thats because its in the gas .....the way they are cracking the gas these days and the addition of alcohol in the gas of today it will gum up carbs all by itself ....i run ATF in the gas as it keeps the carbs clean and adds back some of the heavy oil they have been stripping out of the gas of today ....about 8oz per tankful :mrgreen:
 
Thanks much, I appreciate the tip and will try that out once I drain all the fuel and start over again after the carbs are done.
 
Hey fellers,
Someone should probably start a new thread for this(Dano's) issue, instead of inserting it into this thread on rebuilding the carbs. It's getting a little off of the original theme, which was just a tutorial on how to do the rebuild, and adjustments.
Thanks! :mrgreen:
 
As a forum newbie and no claim to being a mechanic I found Roady's article to be outstanding. I will go back and look at the viddies he provided links to.

On youtube this evening I watched Dan Filipi's carb sync vids and am so grateful to have found this site. The extent to which you guys give of your knowledge it just great. Many thanks.
 
macmusick":apx35vgq said:
As a forum newbie and no claim to being a mechanic I found Roady's article to be outstanding. I will go back and look at the viddies he provided links to.

On youtube this evening I watched Dan Filipi's carb sync vids and am so grateful to have found this site. The extent to which you guys give of your knowledge it just great. Many thanks.
Click to expand...

+1 what Mac said! I'm going to have to do this same procedure sooner rather than later and this is the best tutorial I've found! Thanks to OP for the careful, step-by-step guide and to everyone else for the helpful hints. All very encouraging to see so many others able to do this. Makes me confidant I can too.
 
My hat's off to you for documenting so thoroughly.

Two minor things I would add are,

1) You might have a better go with JIS screwdrivers. Google the term and you'll find them. Japanese screws have a different cross-recess profile than US standard phillips. Fun factoid: The little dimple on the screw-head is a universal identifier designating JIS.

2) You can indeed pull friction-fit slow jets with the right tool. If interested let me know.

Again, great post!

Jack
 
cool ..im interested ...most my carb work has been on 1000 carbs but i like 1100 carbs alot ...and im sure theres a better way just havnt had to do one yet ..to apply myself to the task
 
Well, I have a tool for pulling friction fit slow jets listed on ebay but I don't want to break rules by posting links.

I use it virtually every day on CBX, CM400, GL1100, etc.

Send me a PM?

Jack
 
oldschoolcarbs":2r3cpwqr said:
Well, I have a tool for pulling friction fit slow jets listed on ebay but I don't want to break rules by posting links.

I use it virtually every day on CBX, CM400, GL1100, etc.

Send me a PM?

Jack
Click to expand...
It's totally ok to post a link.
In fact I encourage it!
 

Latest posts

Top