Montecman
Well-known member
My cooling abilities have greatly deminished as of late. I could really use a bit for troubleshooting help. Where do do i start? Where do I end? At what point do I shoot it in the head?
Cooling Issues (Roady????)
- Thread starter Montecman
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??
Is this a Lighting and Electrical question?
Please be more specific.
Is this a Lighting and Electrical question?
Please be more specific.
OP
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Montecman
Well-known member
Sorry, I dont seem to have a cooling system (I know that I do). Right now it is air cooled. The fan doesn't work, or its not getting signal? Where do I start? I had asked this before but cant seem to find it, it was in another thread topic. Sorry for reasking!
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A few items that need to be checked:
First, do the simple thing, check to see if any fuses are blown under your shelter. If no blown fuses go to the power side.
Is the fan working? - With the bike and power off, see if you can spin it by hand (checking for a burned out motor bearing, it should spin freely). If yes check the power to the fan.
Pull the plug off of the sender (follow the wires to the end from the fan). Turn on the power and put the negative on the chasis and the positive in either pin. One of the two wires will have 12 volt power.
Next, check to see if the fan will work with power. With the plug off, I use a two conductor wire and put one conductor in each hole. Then take the wire either to your battery or a spare battery and see if the fan will work with 12 volt power.
Next thing to check is the brass on/off switch. This is a real simple switch that has a normally open circuit. The power goes in one wire and is normally not able to make contact to finish the circuit until the switch reaches about 195 degress and will complete the circuit turning on the fan. That switch will need to be tested.
To test the switch, drain the coolant halfway down, remove the switch (I use a large socket, cannot remember which size, but you can figure that out). Make up two wires and connect them to the switch and the other end to a continuity tester. Put the connected switch into a pot with water and turn on the heat. (I put a meat thermometer in with the water to watch the temp rise) When the temp gets up to around 195-200 degrees (May go as high as 206 degrees), the switch should close and the continuity tester will show a connected circuit. If the water boils for more than 1 minute and the circuit doesn't close, the switch needs to be replaced.
Gerry
First, do the simple thing, check to see if any fuses are blown under your shelter. If no blown fuses go to the power side.
Is the fan working? - With the bike and power off, see if you can spin it by hand (checking for a burned out motor bearing, it should spin freely). If yes check the power to the fan.
Pull the plug off of the sender (follow the wires to the end from the fan). Turn on the power and put the negative on the chasis and the positive in either pin. One of the two wires will have 12 volt power.
Next, check to see if the fan will work with power. With the plug off, I use a two conductor wire and put one conductor in each hole. Then take the wire either to your battery or a spare battery and see if the fan will work with 12 volt power.
Next thing to check is the brass on/off switch. This is a real simple switch that has a normally open circuit. The power goes in one wire and is normally not able to make contact to finish the circuit until the switch reaches about 195 degress and will complete the circuit turning on the fan. That switch will need to be tested.
To test the switch, drain the coolant halfway down, remove the switch (I use a large socket, cannot remember which size, but you can figure that out). Make up two wires and connect them to the switch and the other end to a continuity tester. Put the connected switch into a pot with water and turn on the heat. (I put a meat thermometer in with the water to watch the temp rise) When the temp gets up to around 195-200 degrees (May go as high as 206 degrees), the switch should close and the continuity tester will show a connected circuit. If the water boils for more than 1 minute and the circuit doesn't close, the switch needs to be replaced.
Gerry
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Montecman
Well-known member
:good:
Thanx! I'll do it all!
Thanx! I'll do it all!
Bagmaster
Well-known member
This may relate over to your post about the charging problems. The stator puts out AC power just like in your house which is changed to DC voltage via the regulator/rectifier. Hence the fan motor could be burned out by having been wired to the mess you found coming off the 3 yellow stator wires. Get rid of the wiring mess then start checking circuits, fuses and switches/relays.
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OP
Montecman
Well-known member
Good advice! I'll strip her down naked and go over the harness looking for problems. But if i dont get those stupid christmas lights down first it will get very ugly. :Awe:
now that you have charging issue uncovered and fixable glad you caught that in time. on my bike 791000 and with honda not having major parts for these motors i dont risk my motor on ten cent parts that can fail. for years i've run without thermostat and have a manual switch for the fan. all it takes is one time to screw up your motor. my experience has been that the motor runs cooler and real consistant. the only time the fan comes in play is in stop and go taffic i just turn the fan on and it runs cooler in traffic than any other time. a lot of times when idling during warmup i'll run the fan. i do alot of traveling and it takes potential problems out of the mix.
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OP
Montecman
Well-known member
Another great Idea from Joedrum,....just gooa check & see it the fan works at all!
UPDATE:
Ok, I just ran some jumper wires from the bat to the fan, andarty: it worked arty: .
I have an unused toggle switch that the PO used for the head light? I already rewired it to stay on all the time and left the toggle switch there. Durring Lunch I'll hard wire it all together. :yahoo:
UPDATE:
Ok, I just ran some jumper wires from the bat to the fan, and
arty: it worked arty: .I have an unused toggle switch that the PO used for the head light? I already rewired it to stay on all the time and left the toggle switch there. Durring Lunch I'll hard wire it all together. :yahoo:
- Joined
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- Messages
- 10,987
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Kingsport, Tennessee
- My Bike Models
- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Great to hear that the fan works! If you find that the fan switch is bad, Frenchy at Crescent Moon Cycles has replacements:
https://www.crescentmooncycles.com/html/ ... l1100.html
https://www.crescentmooncycles.com/html/ ... l1100.html
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Montecman
Well-known member
Ok, Lunch is over and Fan rewired through the toggleswitch directly to the bat. Works great!!!!!!!!!! :music:
